I have noticed the tach twitching slightly on idle and it sounds like the car runs a bit rough. Also the trans seems a bit hesitant/sticky to shift. Could these two problems be related? And what might be some things to look at to fix it? I know the tach signal sender is on the top of the list of things to check, along with the fluid level of the trans (its fine), but what else? Could a hanging caliper in the front be causing the trans to shift rough? I have a suspicion that my right front caliper is shot, because when I brake I hear a scraping noise (pads need replaced, but still have a bit of meat left on them, so they shouldn't be grinding) and the car pulls right when driving and brakes are applied...

This car is driving me nuts lol...

what yr and engine? auto or stick? how many miles?

BTW.. props on living in PA and owning a fiero..lol

[This message has been edited by Kyle87 (edited 06-24-2008).]

88 Auto duke 108k... Ironically I just replied to your thread about the tensioner lol...

And apparently I am not the only one in PA with a fiero, 2 others on here besides yourself and I that I know of...Maybe they will see this and sound off I did see one today locally that looked like an 85 with an odd sort of "snorkel" on the drivers side of the roof going into the left deck vent...

[This message has been edited by Xerces_Blackthorne (edited 06-24-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Xerces_Blackthorne: 88 Auto duke 108k... Ironically I just replied to your thread about the tensioner lol... And apparently I am not the only one in PA with a fiero, 2 others on here besides yourself and I that I know of...Maybe they will see this and sound off I did see one today locally that looked like an 85 with an odd sort of "snorkel" on the drivers side of the roof going into the left deck vent...

ME TOO!!! Pa people.
I know of about 5 in East berlin, and a couple in Hanover. There are also some in york.

Not sure about your problem... Im not too familiar with 4cyl's.

My tach started "jumping" once and kinda ran rough... turned out that the ignition module went bad soon after! But that was a 2.8 V6 - im not sure if the 4cyl is similar in the ignition module department.....????

Chris

East Berlin eh? How far are you from Hangover and York? I am in that area for work every Monday... I have seen a formula sitting around philly ave in York down by express check cashing a few times...may have even been on queen street, not sure...somewhere in that area though...

Anyone else have any ideas? Could it be the ignition module on the 4 cyl like chrishahn said?

Edit: I should probably mention that it doesnt really move far, just from about 600 rpm to 625 and back. It actually used to twitch more when my turn signals were on...

[This message has been edited by Xerces_Blackthorne (edited 06-24-2008).]

man... i see all the PA guys, wheres the MD guys at???!??!

btw, check your coil, a faulty could could give a rough idle, not sure bout the trans issue tho

hookedonspeed, before the coil should I check the spark plugs and see is any backed at all? I did just replace them about 3 weeks ago...could that cause this issue? Also had an extra short wire with my new plug wire set, but no idea where it goes...only thing I can think of is that its a coil wire for an actual distributor cap system...

couple things with a twitchy tach: tach filter, pick-up coil & ignition module

for the shifting - there is the TV (throttle valve) cable, witch goes from the throttle body to the tranny

OK, first question: Where is the tach filter? pics would be appreciated/helpful

Second question: pickup coil? you mean the ignition coils correct? under the manifold where the plug wires run to?

Third: How hard is it to adjust the TV cable by yourself?

tach filter is near the ignition coil - its a little thing, about an inch long, and 1/2" in dia.
pick-up coil is in the distributer, under the igntion module - you can test with an ohmmeter - but if the insualtion looks crumbly - probably best to replace - its cheap, but you must fully remove the distributer to do so
the TV cable can be adjusted by yourself - but - tough to get at the release

I thought the 88 had coil packs and not a distributor cap?

oh - not a V6?

Motor:
How about a ground problem? Also, maybe its nothing to worry about?
The tach filter is a good idea.... but does a 2.5 even have one? Like I mentioned before... Ign. module, does the 2.5 even have one? Maybe the ign. mod. is something thats kinda incorporated into the coil packs?
East Berlin: (zip 17316)
East Berlin is approx 10-15 miles north of Hanover (by way of rt. 194), and about 10-15 miles south of Dillsburg, Pa (by way of rt. 194)
And EB is approx 15-20 miles to the west of York (by way of rt.74 N, or rt. 234 E)

Chris

[This message has been edited by chrishahn87 (edited 06-24-2008).]

quote Originally posted by chrishahn87: Motor: The tach filter is a good idea.... but does a 2.5 even have one? Like I mentioned before... Ign. module, does the 2.5 even have one? Maybe the ign. mod. is something thats kinda incorporated into the coil packs?

Ign mod is more under the coil pack than incorporated in them I believe.
Also, I own five 4 cyls, and have yet to actually find the tach filter on any of them. Not saying it isn't there, just that I haven't been able to find it.

------------------
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84 se auto-supposedly sold.
84 se 4 spd
88 4 cyl 5 spd
84 Indy #1578
84 Indy #1656

I would do two things. Which is what I did with my 87 duke.. Replace ignition module.. Its not that hard and you'll be plesently surprised at the difference in the way the car starts and runs. You can have your coils tested at auto zone for free.. (pep boys wanted $75 just to tell me if there bad-- not even replace them...yeah...right) So get them tested.. however even if they come up decent and the guy at the store says your prolly okay.. I would still replace them with hotter coils.. again.. you'll be pleasently surprised at your new found pickup and quicker start. But thats your choice.

These 2 things should help the shifting simply because the car would run better.,.. mine hesitated upon acceloration badlly (even stalled at times) I replaced ignition module.. ran like a dream..

My advise to you is if you replace the module, BE SURE to put a nice think coat of dielectric grease on all the metal parts. it will preserve the life of the module significatly.. unless you can afford to buy $100+ parts often... I would spend the $3 for the grease.. lol (fiero's ae known for burning up ignition modules..)
on a side note.. I think us PA guys should have a randevue sometime.. I mean seriouslly.. how cool would it be to see dozens of fieros driving around in pa? haha I know of 5 in the scranton area. mine being one of them

apparently the tach filter is part of the ignition module or so I was told by the guy who got mine working for me.Of course when he got mine working, it also fixed my faulty fuel gauge. Its what I have heard, not firsthand knowledge. You v6 guys have that tach filter so conveniently located

[This message has been edited by 88Slayer (edited 06-25-2008).]

Chrishahn - I think I know where EB is now that you mention rt 74. You would be roughly 10 minutes or so away from Dover. And I may have actually been through that area coming North into Dillsburg awhile ago...don't remember seeing signs though... As for the problem at hand, I will check and clean the ground straps, see what happens... Thanks.

Kyle - I will see if my mechanic can check the coils and module for me when he does the water pump friday...since hes already in there, might as well do it. And I like your idea, only thing is we would need to find a central location to all meet up. With you up north, Chrishahn out west, me in the south, and the others in the Bethlehem/easton area...one hell of a drive for all of us... I know I have seen a few more in the Reading area yet too...hell, if I go 5 minutes up the street, a friend of mine has a silver 86 2m6 in his driveway. Needs a new freeze plug though

SouthWestern PA here - 20mins North of Pittsburgh
I don't know much about the 4cyl's I have an 86se 2.8/4spd, but when the 4cyl tach filter or lack of one was mentioned I got curious so looked in my haynes manual to see what I could find. I didn't see any mention of tach filter but what I did read was that some 4cyl's use a half effect switch to send engine RPM info to the ECM. Says the half effect switch is located above the pick up coil assembly, don't know if this will help You or not....just trying to help if I can.

My 86se is down for repairs right now, but how many fellow PA Fiero owners drive it Year round/Daily driver? I Love the looks I get in the middle of winter...People think I'm nuts..but I figure You either know how to drive in the snow or You Don't !! a lot of People are able to get by because of the type of vehicle They are driving but are basically clueless when it comes to driving on snow and ice

Thanks for the thoughts there Max1, I will check it out.

As for driving daily with it, this is my primary vehicle right now (may get another one for daily use and run this one as an engine swap/kit car...not quite decided yet on that aspect)..As for the looks you get, I get those looks no matter when or where i drive my fiero. Its a unique little car, and when people see it they don't expect me to drive it daily (or have one that is still running for that matter lol)

On another note though, for shits and giggles i pulled the codes. I picked up code 12 (of course), code 34 and also code 44. 34 relates to the map sensor, 44 relates to exhaust too lean (i have an exhaust leak right where the tip is welded on)...

looks like i will be fixing more stuff. Would either code cause the issues I am having here with the car running a bit rough at idle and the tach twitching?

1st thing I'd do is check all Your vacuum lines, make sure You have no leaks especially the hoses from the MAP sensor, and feel where You can without getting burnt around the intake manifold to make sure You don't feel a leak there ie:bad gaskets...as far as the code 34, when the signal voltage from the MAP sensor is too low the ECM substitutes a fixed MAP value and uses the TPS to control fuel delivery...not sure if the way the computer is trying to run the car along with the exhaust leak would cause lean exhaust or not. Check to make sure Your EGR valve is not leaking or Your PCV valve plugged, either of those will cause erratic idling. If all Your vacuum lines, EGR valve, check out/no leaks, and Your PCV valve isn't plugged (they aren't very expensive(PCV)I'd just replace it anyhow) replace the MAP sensor and then disconnect Your battery for a few mins to clear the codes. Fire it up after reconnecting the battery and go for a short ride, get above 35mph at the least, try and get it over 45 to let the computer relearn what it needs to. When You get back from the short ride see if any codes are set, the 34 should be gone if You replaced the MAP sensor. Your shifter linkage is probably out of whack/needs adjusted to get it to shift smooth, or it could be the TV cable needs adjusted. As far as Your RF brake grinding but there is still pad left, could just have some dirt/tiny rock wedged between the pad and the rotor. That caliper is either malfunctioning or the combination valve is bad causing that brake to grab 1st and pulling the car that way....You could always pull that wheel and make sure the caliper isn't loose to begin with and if it's not, see if Your rotor and pads are gouged(dirt) and then re-bleed Your brakes in proper order to get the pressure to the brakes even. That's usually 1 of the things I suspect when the car pulls during braking, if the pressure isn't even then You have more pressure going to 1 or more calipers 1st. OH.....almost forgot the twitchy tach...see if You do indeed have one of the models that has the half effect switch and if You do and it's not too expensive replace it if the twitchy tach bothers You that much that would be My only Guess to fix that as it sends the engine RPM info to the ECM.....I hope I covered everything You asked about....and I Sure do Hope some of it Helps You in some way

go to Ogre's Cave, link at the top of every PFF page and look at the info He has there on 4cyl engine...You can see issues that cause code 44