Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions - Archive
  I give up! - need some help on a no start 2.8

T H I S   I S   A N   A R C H I V E D   T O P I C
  

Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version


I give up! - need some help on a no start 2.8 by NashvilleFiero
Started on: 06-03-2008 10:57 PM
Replies: 23
Last post by: NashvilleFiero on 06-06-2008 08:50 PM
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-03-2008 10:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post
Hi Guys,
Well I can't figure this one out. About a month ago the heads were pulled on my 85 2.8 GT. The gaskets were replaced and it has never run right since. Actually, now it does not run at all. It gradually lost power then It turns over, but no firing.

Here what has been replaced:
ECM
Plugs
Wires
MAP
TPS
Ground wire
Injectors
Fuel filter
Cap
Coil
Distributor (got a new style used one from someone on here)
Ignition module
Lifters
Relashed lifters

I have double checked the plug wire sequence and the injector electrical connections.

RPM gauge does not show any RPMs when cranking

Check engine light comes on when ignition turned on.

Fuel pump heard.

Checked for TBC compression with pressure gauge and screw driver test

I find fuel as I should in the rail, but I do note the the pressure is 35 at the schrader valve.

Fuses for ECM and fuel injectors are good.

Rotor turns with engine.

Timing chain???

Have a Snap On MT 2400 scope coming to help on this one


You thoughts are welcome!

------------------
If you ever have a questions about the sincerity of the circle of Fiero owners on this site, take a look at:
"In Memoriam: Fiero Members"

Pretty impressive.....

Avatar is of an actual Fiero on fire

IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
vamper
Member
Posts: 291
From: belvidere illinois 61008
Registered: Dec 2005


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-03-2008 11:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for vamperSend a Private Message to vamperDirect Link to This Post
do you get any reaction when you try to start it? backfires sputters?

[This message has been edited by vamper (edited 06-03-2008).]

IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-03-2008 11:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by vamper:

do you get any reaction when you try to start it?


No, seems like there is no kick. I moved the distributor ahead and back.
IP: Logged
vamper
Member
Posts: 291
From: belvidere illinois 61008
Registered: Dec 2005


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-03-2008 11:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for vamperSend a Private Message to vamperDirect Link to This Post
possibility of the distributor being 180* off?

are your injectors firing? and spraying nice and even
IP: Logged
jetman
Member
Posts: 7788
From: Sterling Heights Mich
Registered: Dec 2002


Feedback score: (4)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 273
Rate this member

Report this Post06-03-2008 11:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
RPM gauge does not show any RPMs when cranking

Bad ignition module, pick up coil or connections to them.
IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2008 08:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jetman:

Bad ignition module, pick up coil or connections to them.


This is going to be the area I start with. Have to learn how to shoot a signal though these and test them.

[This message has been edited by NashvilleFiero (edited 06-04-2008).]

IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2008 08:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post

NashvilleFiero

555 posts
Member since Apr 2008
 
quote
Originally posted by vamper:

possibility of the distributor being 180* off?

are your injectors firing? and spraying nice and even


Injectors are new. Will I see 12 v at them if they are firing?
IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2008 08:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post

NashvilleFiero

555 posts
Member since Apr 2008
 
quote
Originally posted by vamper:

possibility of the distributor being 180* off?

are your injectors firing? and spraying nice and even


Lets say that I am 180 off. Can I just take out and rotate the distributor 180?
IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2008 08:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post

NashvilleFiero

555 posts
Member since Apr 2008
 
quote
Originally posted by NashvilleFiero:


Lets say that I am 180 off. Can I just take out and rotate the distributor 180?


If I am 180 off, will any of the marks on the balancer line up with the timing gauge?

------------------
If you ever have a questions about the sincerity of the circle of Fiero owners on this site, take a look at:
"In Memoriam: Fiero Members"

Pretty impressive.....

Avatar is of an actual Fiero on fire

IP: Logged
o2usa
Member
Posts: 46
From: mims,FL
Registered: Aug 2007


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2008 09:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for o2usaSend a Private Message to o2usaDirect Link to This Post
hello

just throwing this out there but does the motor have a good ground?
not sure if this would cause this problem or not but if this happend after a head change i can't see all of these other things going wrong at the same time.

just my .02 hope it helps

joe
IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2008 09:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by o2usa:

hello

just throwing this out there but does the motor have a good ground?
not sure if this would cause this problem or not but if this happend after a head change i can't see all of these other things going wrong at the same time.

just my .02 hope it helps

joe


Actually, funny you should mention it. The mechanic who put the head gaskets on failed to tighten the ground on the back of the engine. I tightened it, but the problem continues.
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
Joseph Upson
Member
Posts: 4951
From:
Registered: Jan 2002


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 88
Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2008 09:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonDirect Link to This Post
Put the old distributor, coil, module and cap back on. When this kind of thing happens one of the easiest solutions is to restore the engine as close as possible within reason back to where it was when you could actually crank it and get it to run. By having changed so many crucial parts to keep an engine running at once it leaves a lot of room for making a single bad part hard to find. New and like new parts are not immune to being bad at or shortly after installation.

I don't recall what you actually measured for compression but it's important for valve adjustment to be correct and although the pump primes on power up it doesn't mean the injectors are pulsing during cranking. A quick test is a little starting fluid in the throttle body while cranking, if it fires you know it's not getting fuel. You have to be very careful with that stuff though and only use a small amount.

If the distributor is 180 deg off it doesn't matter where the balancer marks are as far as turning it 180 deg if the general setting is within the needed tolerance for the engine to start. It does need to be timed correctly of course.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 06-04-2008).]

IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2008 12:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Joseph Upson:

Put the old distributor, coil, module and cap back on. When this kind of thing happens one of the easiest solutions is to restore the engine as close as possible within reason back to where it was when you could actually crank it and get it to run. By having changed so many crucial parts to keep an engine running at once it leaves a lot of room for making a single bad part hard to find. New and like new parts are not immune to being bad at or shortly after installation.

I don't recall what you actually measured for compression but it's important for valve adjustment to be correct and although the pump primes on power up it doesn't mean the injectors are pulsing during cranking. A quick test is a little starting fluid in the throttle body while cranking, if it fires you know it's not getting fuel. You have to be very careful with that stuff though and only use a small amount.

If the distributor is 180 deg off it doesn't matter where the balancer marks are as far as turning it 180 deg if the general setting is within the needed tolerance for the engine to start. It does need to be timed correctly of course.



Compression check today. Oops, battery dead, fault code 1D1OT
IP: Logged
vamper
Member
Posts: 291
From: belvidere illinois 61008
Registered: Dec 2005


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2008 01:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for vamperSend a Private Message to vamperDirect Link to This Post
if the distributor is 180 off you will have spark druing the exhaust stroke. the marks will match on the crank but remember the crank rotates 2 times for every 1 ignition.

If you have an old xmas light pull an injector plug and put the light in, or a test light, it should flicker, new injectors should mean if they are getting pulse they will spray, but this is not always the case if you can pull an injector and rotate the motor once or twice and make sure they are spraying underpressure
IP: Logged
Mickey_Moose
Member
Posts: 7497
From: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2001


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 143
Rate this member

Report this Post06-05-2008 10:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
Check fusable links, make sure you have power first
IP: Logged
James Bond 007
Member
Posts: 8868
From: California.U.S.A.
Registered: Dec 2002


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 263
Rate this member

Report this Post06-05-2008 10:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Direct Link to This Post
Your either not getting spark or fuel,one or the other.Even if you can hear the fuel pump running it doesn't mean your getting fuel.
IP: Logged
pdemondo
Member
Posts: 448
From: Peoria, AZ, USA
Registered: Oct 2007


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-05-2008 10:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pdemondoSend a Private Message to pdemondoDirect Link to This Post
Try starting fluid. Then you will know if it is a fuel problem or not.
IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-05-2008 12:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

Check fusable links, make sure you have power first


Any particular ones?
IP: Logged
86GT3.4DOHC
Member
Posts: 10007
From: Marion Ohio
Registered: Apr 2004


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 306
Rate this member

Report this Post06-05-2008 05:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post
If you're not getting RPM when cranking, then either the pickup coil or the ignition module is not working, plain and simple. Get RPMs when cranking, then you can go from there.

First I would check all connections on the ICM and PUC, then take the ICM into a parts store to have it tested, and test the PUC per the haynes manual.

Replace as needed. If both test good, replace one or the other.
IP: Logged
Spoilt_87fiero
Member
Posts: 420
From: Conway, SC
Registered: Jan 2008


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-05-2008 11:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Spoilt_87fieroSend a Private Message to Spoilt_87fieroDirect Link to This Post
i had a problem like this. I was going down the road and the tach quit the a couple of miles the car died completely. thought that it was the ign. module so replaced it and still nothing. so after some searching i found that two wires going to the c500 had fell across the wp pulley and been cut. one for the tach and the other for the power to the ecm. tied the wires back together and it fired right up. my situiation will probably differ from yours but i would check for something like that. make sure that your ecm is getting power to it.
IP: Logged
Mickey_Moose
Member
Posts: 7497
From: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Registered: May 2001


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 143
Rate this member

Report this Post06-06-2008 01:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by NashvilleFiero:
Any particular ones?


All of them that are near the C500 (since there are easy to get to) - but specifically the ECM one. Make sure you have all the power going to the ECM (easy check if you have a scanner and you can scan the car - or jumper out the ALDL plug and see if it goes into diagnostic mode and shows any code or the all ok one). Also check your fuses. Make sure you have 12v at the coil (BAT terminal).

Then next I would make sure your coil and ignition module are good and then pickup coil - just because you changed them does not mean they are good unless you know they work for sure - there is no guarentee with used parts (have them tested). Since you pulled the distributor, are you sure it is installed correctly? If not you will have to find TDC and check it to make sure it is right.

Check fuel pressure (maybe clogged filter, bad regulator or bad pulsator). If you have 12 volts at the injector connector it should fire unless you have an ECM or wiring problem (the injector turns on when the ECM grounds the other side of the injector plug).

In your original post, the indication of you gradualling losing power indicates to me a fuel problem or pickup coil - usually when the module or coil fails, it happens right now and not over time (there have been exceptions, but it is not the norm).


IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-06-2008 08:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pdemondo:

Try starting fluid. Then you will know if it is a fuel problem or not.


I will try this. I did find fuel in the rail when I tore it down to the lifters.

In Australia they have a brand of this called "Start Ya Bastard!" LOL

------------------
If you ever have a questions about the sincerity of the circle of Fiero owners on this site, take a look at:
"In Memoriam: Fiero Members"

Pretty impressive.....

Avatar is of an actual Fiero on fire

IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-06-2008 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post

NashvilleFiero

555 posts
Member since Apr 2008
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:


All of them that are near the C500 (since there are easy to get to) - but specifically the ECM one. Make sure you have all the power going to the ECM (easy check if you have a scanner and you can scan the car - or jumper out the ALDL plug and see if it goes into diagnostic mode and shows any code or the all ok one). Also check your fuses. Make sure you have 12v at the coil (BAT terminal).

Then next I would make sure your coil and ignition module are good and then pickup coil - just because you changed them does not mean they are good unless you know they work for sure - there is no guarentee with used parts (have them tested). Since you pulled the distributor, are you sure it is installed correctly? If not you will have to find TDC and check it to make sure it is right.

Check fuel pressure (maybe clogged filter, bad regulator or bad pulsator). If you have 12 volts at the injector connector it should fire unless you have an ECM or wiring problem (the injector turns on when the ECM grounds the other side of the injector plug).

In your original post, the indication of you gradualling losing power indicates to me a fuel problem or pickup coil - usually when the module or coil fails, it happens right now and not over time (there have been exceptions, but it is not the norm).


Good points. I will check these with my new Snap-On Vantage Graphing DMM and diagnostic software Woo Hoo!

Injectors are brand spanking new.


I think I MAY, and I say may, have found the problem. The white wire off of the pick up coil got caught between the cap and the distributor base. Could not be see, since it as in the back. I found two crimps in the wire. It may have grounded out.

------------------
If you ever have a questions about the sincerity of the circle of Fiero owners on this site, take a look at:
"In Memoriam: Fiero Members"

Pretty impressive.....

Avatar is of an actual Fiero on fire

IP: Logged
NashvilleFiero
Member
Posts: 555
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post06-06-2008 08:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NashvilleFieroSend a Private Message to NashvilleFieroDirect Link to This Post

NashvilleFiero

555 posts
Member since Apr 2008
 
quote
Originally posted by jetman:

Bad ignition module, pick up coil or connections to them.


i am going to double check this tomorrow. I will inject a signal with my scope in the ignition module and see what comes out. I think I may have crimped (grounded out) the white pick up coil wire. : ( Hope I did not fry it. Thanks for your reply.
IP: Logged



All times are ET (US)

T H I S   I S   A N   A R C H I V E D   T O P I C
  

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock