I have the filter and gasket but I was going to take it to my local Midas. They do great work and I trust them but I like to do what I can myself Easy job? Is there a sequence that the cover bolts go back on? Input appreciated!
Marc

Its easy. It can get pretty messy though. No certain sequence needed to retorque the pan bolts. Just make sure you torque them down to 90-100 inlbs.

And make sure that's in-lbs instead of ft-lbs, or you'll warp the pan badly. And yes, it is messy. Some folks here have devised ways to get much of the oil out before you drop the pan, which reduces the mess. Maybe one of them will chime in.

quote Originally posted by pswayne: And make sure that's in-lbs instead of ft-lbs, or you'll warp the pan badly. And yes, it is messy. Some folks here have devised ways to get much of the oil out before you drop the pan, which reduces the mess. Maybe one of them will chime in.

There is never a drain plug on a transmisson pan so here is the best technique for draining the oil with minimal spillage. Remove all the bolts except the two at the front corners.
Now place a large drain pan under the pan. Now loosen the remaining two bolts at the corners almost all the way out but leave then in place by a few threads. Then using gentle pressure with a screwdriver pry the other end of the pan away from the transmisson housing and pull it downwards to form a drain ramp. It doesn't always work perfectly but it does beat the hit or miss pan dropping technique. Changing the fluid and filter is easy but it only gets out about half of what is there. That is why an in and out flushing of the trasmission is the preferable method.

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87GT - with 3800SC Series III engine, 4T65eHD
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

The filter pushes into the hole with the new rubber o-seal. Make sure you push it all of the way in and it's snug. Otherwise, you end up in a Santa suit on Christmas Eve begging for a funnel at a semi-closed convenience store so that you can add enough fluid to get home. At least they'll have a story to tell about saving Christmas for the entire world!

Get a LARGE pan to catch the oil, when it comes out it is often a wide water fall of oil.

When you get ready to put the pan back on clean the pan and transmission flanges so they are completely dry of oil. Helps to let the trans drain a while since it keep dripping for quite a while. You can even use alcohol or acetone. The cleaner and drier you get the surfaces the better the rtv will seal without leaks.

Then when you put the pan back on put an even 1/16" layer of RTV on the pan, lay on the gasket and do the same to the top of the gasket. encircle the bolt holes with RTV.

Then carefully lift it back into place and start your bolts.

As above you don't want to over tighten them.

quote Originally posted by pswayne: And make sure that's in-lbs instead of ft-lbs, or you'll warp the pan badly.

The pan won't warp at all. You'll just have a bunch of broken bolts.

Thanks for all the advice. For this reason alone I think I'll take it to Midas.

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Changing the fluid and filter is easy but it only gets out about half of what is there. That is why an in and out flushing of the trasmission is the preferable method.

quote Originally posted by Dodgerunner: Then when you put the pan back on put an even 1/16" layer of RTV on the pan, lay on the gasket and do the same to the top of the gasket. encircle the bolt holes with RTV.

I wonder if Midas will use RTV though or just figure the new gasket will be enough?
Marc

quote Originally posted by Gokart: Thanks for all the advice. For this reason alone I think I'll take it to Midas.

If you do that, stop by the parts store on the way home and buy a big drip pan to place under your car and also pick up a few quarts of trans fluid too.
You're gonna need it

quote Originally posted by Gokart: I wonder if Midas will use RTV though or just figure the new gasket will be enough? Marc

They will have to use some sealer on it or it will leak, there is no way just a standard gasket will seal well enough to not leak.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 04-09-2008).]

Well then! Is there anyway I can do it myself and be sure to flush it all out? I'd like to do it myself but what's the point if I'm only going to get half the fluid

Would you settle for 2/3 of the fluid ?

I used the transmission to pump out the fluid. Removed just over 6 quarts. Makes removing the pan less of a spill operation. Measure the fluid that you drain, replace with the same amount, and check the fluid level when warm. Read the write-up at Ogre's Cave.

With the car almost 20 years old, I figured it was time to replace the 5/16 inch hoses, needed just under 3 feet. Installed with new clamps, added drain plug to pan for easy drain next time.

For the gaskets, some of the problems may be due to using a cork gasket. The filter kit came with a synthetic (non-cork) gasket. I have been told by a GM trained mechanic some better (non-cork) gaskets are sold at GM dealers, but the price is about $20. If you ever remove the side cover, don't use a cork gasket.

I have read some bad stories about have the trans flushed at a shop, but don't know if the stories are true? In brief, you have your working trans flushed at the shop, with the same machine that was previously used to flush a trans that needs a rebuild to make it out of the shop. After the fluid flush, as you guessed, trouble develops with your trans. I don't know anyone that has had this problem, if it is a problem with some types of flush machines, or just operator error.

I think your making to much out of doing this. It's really not a hard job to drop the pan and change the filter. It's mostly a messy job. Just doing the filter change and not flushing the TC will get a major amount of the oil in the system. So unless your oil is really black or smells burnt I'd just do that much and feel good about it.