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Line Lock (roll control) installs, lets see what you did by TD37
Started on: 03-14-2008 12:28 AM
Replies: 24
Last post by: Steven Snyder on 04-07-2008 03:43 AM
TD37
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Report this Post03-14-2008 12:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TD37Click Here to visit TD37's HomePageSend a Private Message to TD37Direct Link to This Post
I just picked up my new TCI line lock and SSBC Distribution block with built in proportioning valve for my Vette brake swap I'm working on. I'm not to the plumbing stage but would like to see what anyone else has done for a line lock or different distribution block install. They are both really nice pieces but will need some doing to go with the stock setup. What have you done?

-Tim



[This message has been edited by TD37 (edited 03-14-2008).]

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Matt Hawkins
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Report this Post03-14-2008 09:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Matt HawkinsSend a Private Message to Matt HawkinsDirect Link to This Post
You will just push the front wheels in a Fiero. The line lock might be a waste of money.

------------------
62 Buick Special
86 GT, 5-Speed
87 GT, 3.4l DOHC Turbo 415 WHP, 11.9 @ 118
88 Toyota Supra Turbo


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Pyrthian
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Report this Post03-14-2008 10:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianDirect Link to This Post
I was thinking something like this might make for a good alternate handbrake, on the rears.
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Will
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Report this Post03-14-2008 10:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
I've been looking at a line lock to use as a parking brake on the front brakes on my Northstar car, since I don't have a rear parking brake any more (A-body JA2 brake/hub carrier upgrade).

I'd want a normally open valve that would be held closed by pressure. IE, I'd push the brake, hit the (momentary) switch, release the brake and release the switch and the brake would remain applied until I pushed the brake pedal hard enought to equalize the pressure across the valve, at which point it would spring open and I'd have normal brakes again.

I'd put the line lock between the MC and the factory distro block. That way pressure in the front brake circuit will actuate the shuttle valve and light the "brake" light in the instrument panel, just as if you'd left the parking brake applied.
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Pyrthian
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Report this Post03-14-2008 10:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianDirect Link to This Post
I was more thinking of something to lock the rears for sliding the back end, since the existing handbrake location sucks for this kind of fun.

much like your propsed setup, except on the rears. I assume the lock cant create pressure, just hold it - so probably need a 2nd solenoid controlled MC.
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xgamefan
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Report this Post03-14-2008 12:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for xgamefanSend a Private Message to xgamefanDirect Link to This Post
I agree with Matt, I have one on mine and it tends to just skid the fronts. But its still cool! I also put a washer bottle in the trunk and some winshield sprayers in the rear wheel wells to get help the rears to spin or add soap for the smoke show.
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Hank is Here
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Report this Post03-14-2008 12:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Hank is HereSend a Private Message to Hank is HereDirect Link to This Post
Sounds like you are looking for a Mico brake.

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

I've been looking at a line lock to use as a parking brake on the front brakes on my Northstar car, since I don't have a rear parking brake any more (A-body JA2 brake/hub carrier upgrade).

I'd want a normally open valve that would be held closed by pressure. IE, I'd push the brake, hit the (momentary) switch, release the brake and release the switch and the brake would remain applied until I pushed the brake pedal hard enought to equalize the pressure across the valve, at which point it would spring open and I'd have normal brakes again.

I'd put the line lock between the MC and the factory distro block. That way pressure in the front brake circuit will actuate the shuttle valve and light the "brake" light in the instrument panel, just as if you'd left the parking brake applied.


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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post03-14-2008 01:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TD37:

I just picked up my new TCI line lock and SSBC Distribution block with built in proportioning valve for my Vette brake swap I'm working on. I'm not to the plumbing stage but would like to see what anyone else has done for a line lock or different distribution block install. They are both really nice pieces but will need some doing to go with the stock setup. What have you done?

-Tim

I have the same distribution block with "JEGS" written on it. Jeg's also labels the ports so you know what to hook up. It's otherwise identical.

You will need adapters for the Fiero's metric brake line. Edelman sells these. All the lines end up in the correct place stock except for the rear outlet, which on the Fiero is on the bottom and on the aftermarket block is at the rear. I think you may be able to bend the stock line to fit but I'm not sure.
There probably isn't a 90 degree brake adapter fitting available but if I recall correctly the block just has pipe threads (EDIT: they don't show pipe thread adapters on the distribution block anymore on the Jegs site, so maybe the SSBC doesnt need them either. In that case it's probably for standard 3/16" brake line fittings. Not sure what adapters you can use..).. so you could possibly get a high quality 90 degree pipe fitting adapter and install the brake line in that. Hopefully it would be clocked right when tight! I would just bend the line or make a new one.

[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 03-14-2008).]

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darkhorizon
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Report this Post03-14-2008 01:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
The linelock will almost never allow you to do a decent burnout in a fiero, but I guess it might help a bit.

I am really interested in doing one here soon just because I like to cut rear ebrake cables.
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TD37
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Report this Post03-14-2008 05:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TD37Click Here to visit TD37's HomePageSend a Private Message to TD37Direct Link to This Post
I have heard the talk of pushing the front wheels from a few people but I've heard from others with better tires up front holding. I knew I was going to put in this fancy prop block and have to be cracking and building lines so I figured I would just build another and put in a line lock.

Steven Snyder - I just realized that the picture I posted doesn't have them marked. The one I got looks identical to you're jegs one but SSBC instead. All the ports are labeled and are 3/16 flare.

Does anyone have any pictures of any of this stuff installed?

-Tim
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post03-15-2008 12:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
Anyone know what size and type the fittings are that are in the stock distribution block/prop valve? I'm having a lot of trouble figuring this out from the threads on brake fittings in the archives. Nobody seems to agree on what the type of fittings are, let alone the thread size..

[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 03-15-2008).]

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Will
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Report this Post03-15-2008 04:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Hank is Here:

Sounds like you are looking for a Mico brake.



This one, right?

http://www.mico.com/product...laysubinfo.php?id=20

That thing is enormous!

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 03-15-2008).]

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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post03-18-2008 02:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
Bump!
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xgamefan
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Report this Post03-21-2008 09:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for xgamefanSend a Private Message to xgamefanDirect Link to This Post
I was finally able to get the cover off, hopefully start working on the big brake upgrade. Hope the pictures help



Man I need a new steering wheel!
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post03-23-2008 11:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
I took all the lines off my spare master cylinder and distribution block so I could measure all the fittings.

Here are all the fitting types and sizes (yes there really are this many different sizes of fittings! Ridiculous..)

Note: SAE inverted flare is a 45-degree double flare

Master Cylinder:
Front outlet: 9/16"-18 SAE inverted flare on 1/4" tube
Rear outlet: 1/2"-20 SAE inverted flare on 3/16" tube

Notice the tube sizes are different, and you cannot mix and match them even though the threads are the same. They will not seat.


Proportioning Valve/Distribution Block:
Front inlet: 1/2"-20 SAE inverted flare on 1/4" tube
Rear inlet: 1/2"-20" SAE inverted flare on 3/16" tube

Front outlets: M10x1.0mm fitting with DIN bubble flare on 4.75mm line (its probably interchangeable with 3/16" line since 3/16" = 4.76mm)
Rear outlet: M14x1.5mm fitting with DIN bubble flare on 6mm line (this is NOT a 1/4" line, it is actually 6mm. There is enough difference that they are not directly interchangeable.)

Note: The DIN bubble flare is not really a flare at all. It's a curved convex shape that looks something like what you get if you start a double flare and don't finish it. I have heard that is a way to make them but I'm not sure it's the right way to make them. Maybe someone here knows how to properly form a DIN bubble flare on brake lines?

I haven't checked what the fitting sizes are at the T-block in the back or the lines going out to the brake hoses.

I know there has been a lot of confusion over all these fittings, since there are so many different sizes and flare styles used on the Fiero. When I get a chance I'll start a new thread with pics and diagrams and whatnot.

The aftermarket prop valve/distribution block combo has 3/8"-24 SAE double-flare on 3/16" line fittings on all ports.

------------------

1988 Pontiac Fiero 3.4 DOHC V6 5-speed
California Smog Legal!

[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 03-23-2008).]

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TD37
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Report this Post03-24-2008 12:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TD37Click Here to visit TD37's HomePageSend a Private Message to TD37Direct Link to This Post
Steven Snyder - Great info!

I also took all the stuff apart today and I was pretty dissapointed on how hard this is going to be. This is ridiculous...

-Tim
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post03-24-2008 12:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
Tim, don't fret! I think this can be done without an adapter on every line. I'm looking through Edelmann's catalog to find the appropriate fittings and adapters. The 3/8"-24 SAE fittings can be installed on the factory lines that go to the front calipers, and on the rear circuit line from the MC to the distribution block. I don't know if the factory lines can be flared in the car; it depends on how big the tool is.. but the master cylinder line is easy enough to remove, and the fronts arent that bad to take out either. That leaves us with two lines...
We have to adapt 1/2"-20 SAE inverted flare on 1/4" tube to a 3/8"-24 SAE inverted flare on 3/16" tube, and M14x1.5mm bubble flare on 6mm line to 3/8"-24 SAE double flare on 3/16" line. The first one is going to be easy to find; it's just going to be an SAE double flare to smaller SAE double flare adapter.
The rear is going to be harder.. it's also the line thats in the wrong place on the Fiero. It comes up front underneath, but the aftermarket dist block has the rear outlet on the back side. I think the solution to this will be to use a coupler fitting to connect a short section of tubing to the stock tubing. The short section of tubing would be bent to come around to the back; then use an adapter for the dist block.
I'm going to take all my parts down to a hose guy I know, and we'll see about getting the appropriate adapters and lines.
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Report this Post03-24-2008 09:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CTFieroGT87Send a Private Message to CTFieroGT87Direct Link to This Post
I had an absolute heck of a time finding 6mm line while doing my brake lines, so I ended up drilling that bubble flare out to fit a 1/4" brake line in there (6.35mm). My rear T-block was frozen up, but I do know the outlets to the wheels were 3/16", I'd assume the inlet was something special for the 6mm. I replaced the T-block with a standard 1/4" in, dual 3/16" out.

------------------
Christian
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TD37
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Report this Post03-31-2008 12:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TD37Click Here to visit TD37's HomePageSend a Private Message to TD37Direct Link to This Post
Any progress on this, I've been working on the other side of the brake swap lately.

-Tim
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post03-31-2008 03:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
I'm having other major problems with my car (transmission) so I haven't a chance to look into this more yet. I will probably in a month or two.
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chrisgtp
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Report this Post03-31-2008 11:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for chrisgtpSend a Private Message to chrisgtpDirect Link to This Post
what abut going to braided lines?
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post03-31-2008 01:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by chrisgtp:

what abut going to braided lines?


Between the master cylinder and the prop valve? That doesn't really help much.. one of those lines is trivial to modify, and the other requires a common adapter.
The problem is the line going all the way to the rear brakes, and that's something you want to be hard line..
It may be possible to have a braided line made up that goes from the rear line's stock location up front to the back of the prop valve. If so that could be a reasonable solution. I wouldn't want braided line anywhere else replacing the hard lines though.

------------------

1988 Pontiac Fiero 3.4 DOHC V6 5-speed
California Smog Legal!

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TD37
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Report this Post04-05-2008 08:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TD37Click Here to visit TD37's HomePageSend a Private Message to TD37Direct Link to This Post
Hey Steven Snyder, I'm still a little confused on what is what. Could you maybe lay out the info in a little more easy to understand way. Like this:

Master cylinder rear - thread and line size
master cylinder front - thread and line size
MC to dist. block rear - thread and line size
MC to dist. block front - thread and line size
rear brake line - thread and line size
front brake line top - thread and line size
front brake line bottom - thread and line size

Then I can start ordering fittings and unions to make this baby work.

-Tim
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TD37
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Report this Post04-06-2008 10:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TD37Click Here to visit TD37's HomePageSend a Private Message to TD37Direct Link to This Post
Bump for info, i need this! I'm so close!!!

-Tim
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post04-07-2008 03:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TD37:

Hey Steven Snyder, I'm still a little confused on what is what. Could you maybe lay out the info in a little more easy to understand way. Like this:

I tried to make it as clear as possible.. Here is your terminology converted to mine used in my above post )where the sizes are listed) so I don't have to retype the info.. they're pretty much the same..
Master cylinder rear - (Master cylinder rear outlet)
master cylinder front - (Master cylinder front outlet)
MC to dist. block rear - (Distribution block rear inlet)
MC to dist. block front - (Distribution block front inlet)
rear brake line - (Distribution block rear outlet)
front brake line top - (Distribution block front outlet)
front brake line bottom - (Distribution block front outlet)


------------------

1988 Pontiac Fiero 3.4 DOHC V6 5-speed
California Smog Legal!

[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 04-07-2008).]

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