i was sitting at goodyear from 2:30 to 7:15 today to get it aligned and they didn't do it, i yelled at them about how much time i've wasted there (5 hours) i spun out of the lot, came to a light had 10lbs of oil pressure, then it started knocking.

2 months of hard work gone.

As long as it's knocking you can still rebuild... I could be worse and have a rod out the side... I should know it happend to me

you mean like this?

this happened to my other car last month. i haven't worked in awhile. i guess it's time to get a job and buy something new.

at the risk of sounding like a noob (which i know it will), what exactly happened? Im still learning bout cars so i dont understand exactly what your talking about? What is the knocking and why does that mean its toast.

not tuned + load + high RPM fuel cut = massive knock = ruined crank shaft bearings.

what i dont understand though is what exactly is it thats knocking?

ive herd of people saying "the engine is knoking" but i dont know what that is.

All my car experience is grade 10 auto at school and working on my Suzuki swift before I sold it (soon I will know how to put in a 3.4 in a fiero)

knock is actual slop in the bearings. when the rods goes up in the stroke it moves the slop in the bearing and then when it fires it goes back down it moves the slop again. that is knock. that's about easiest way i can explain it.

Well, thats not the knocking I was talking about, I am talking about spark pre detonation, which is when the air/fuel mix explodes when the piston is coming up in the compression stroke before it hits top dead center, and starts coming back down. This basicly "attempts to spin the motor backwards" in a sense, and overloads basicly everything.

Pre-ignition is autoignition while the piston is coming up in the bore and before the spark triggers. This blows a hole in the piston and the engine is done instantly.

Knock is autoignition of a portion of the charge after the spark has triggered and the flame front is progressing across the chamber. This is detonation (also called spark knock), the noise you hear is the two pressure waves hitting each other and reverberating through the block. This doesn't destroy the engine right away, but eventually it does hammer the rod and main bearings to the point where the oil film thickness is decreased and there is bearing trouble.

That knock you're hearing is what Billyboy said.

You could probably find some graphic illustration on the internet. But a "Rod Knock" referrs to the Connecting Rod that spins around the crankshaft journal. Two halves bolted together around the crank with a "half bearing" in each part of the rod. When bolted together they form a perfect circle around the crank with very tight clearance and just pressurized oil to lubricate the bearing & rod as it spins. If the engine is overreved it will "spin a bearing" with means too much pressure was applied to the bearing and ot shifted it's position in the rod & cap creating a flat spot or a not so perfect circle. Now when the rod goes up & down as the crankshaft spins, the rod actually slaps or knock as it hits the crank journal, creating the repetitious & deadly knock we all know of. Everything now has to come out and be remachined to factory tolerances to retain oil pressure & silence the knock.

The illustration below shows the real "basics" of a 4 stroke cylinder process. The crank that spins is "green" and the rod connected to it is red. Now just imagine the tight tolerances in there with a tiny little 3mm bearing between the rod & crank journal.

so how hard is the l32 swap

quote Originally posted by Billybo455: so how hard is the l32 swap

Same motor......................better blower.................only difference is Drive By Wire throttle body, which can be swapped with a Series 2 T.B.

[This message has been edited by PURPLE REIGN (edited 12-05-2007).]

quote Originally posted by PURPLE REIGN: You could probably find some graphic illustration on the internet. But a "Rod Knock" referrs to the Connecting Rod that spins around the crankshaft journal. Two halves bolted together around the crank with a "half bearing" in each part of the rod. When bolted together they form a perfect circle around the crank with very tight clearance and just pressurized oil to lubricate the bearing & rod as it spins. If the engine is overreved it will "spin a bearing" with means too much pressure was applied to the bearing and ot shifted it's position in the rod & cap creating a flat spot or a not so perfect circle. Now when the rod goes up & down as the crankshaft spins, the rod actually slaps or knock as it hits the crank journal, creating the repetitious & deadly knock we all know of. Everything now has to come out and be remachined to factory tolerances to retain oil pressure & silence the knock. The illustration below shows the real "basics" of a 4 stroke cylinder process. The crank that spins is "green" and the rod connected to it is red. Now just imagine the tight tolerances in there with a tiny little 3mm bearing between the rod & crank journal.

thanks that explained it very well

ha ha, points igntition. i think they quit using that before i was born. that's some old stuff! i think i'm going to find a l32 and maybe get it running for sunday. who know's. i know i hate life right now!

points ignition is not as uncommon as you think, though the automotive industry abandoned it long ago, there were mercury marine GM 3.0 liters that had points well into the 1990's.

points were also used in small two stroke outboards until the 90's, it was the simplest way to run a 1 or 2 cylinder engine.. all they needed was a lobe on the top of the crankshaft to operate the points under the flywheel...

if you use your old injector set up ill take the l32 injectors!!! need em for my 3500

i would think marine stuff would be the worst thing to use points on. motorcycles bailed on them in the late 70's, there were a few left in the early 80s. i don't think i've ever seen a points setup in a car to tell the truth. i haven't ever looked for one either.

TEMPER TEMPER TEMPER..... I would not have waited 3 hours much less 5..

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87 GT
series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft)

they kept telling me they were going to get it on the rack in a few minutes. i kept getting suckered is what it boiled down to. i'm going to write a nice emial of hate to corporate.

Seems like every time I hear of an L67 blowing up, its because someone got on it before it had time to warm up. Full throttle + cold engine = bad!

I got my L32 today!!! just under 5k on the clock :P so happy. comes with a 1 year warrenty. almost want to keep my stock parts, but don't want to screw them over. motor looks brand new.