my 2000gtp motor wont start in my 1987 fiero gt i have no injector pulse and no spark please help

bump

Check your fuses one at a time to make sure none blew.Check your wireing again.Make sure the coil pack is grounded on the back.Make sure your engine is grounded to the chassie.

thanks will check also when cranking rpm reads 0

Was the pass-key removed from the computer? When you get the coil pack working and the engine still doesn't what to start, spray starter fluid into the intake. I used this little tech to find out that the pass-key was not removed from the computer. And yes, I did go through all of my wiring first - three times!

Don Z.

Dont even think about passkey yet, if you dont have spark, your IGN modual is wired wrong. You WILL get spark if the modual has power and ground, it does not even need to be hooked to the PCM in any way to spark.

Yea, make sure its grounded.

i will try everything and let you guys know what happens thanks is this common with these swaps i did relocate the ignition module to the firewall

This is one thing that makes me nervous I try my best to make the harness perfect and meter every thing out before shipping but being human mistakes can happen. Hopefully this is easily fixable and nothing I did but I do stand by my work and will help in any way I can.
When cranking the engine over does the tach read properly, there is only a few things that will shut down both spark and injector pulse. I would concentrate around the ignition module by checking grounds and making sure there is no bent pins on the cam and crank sensor. Dan

------------------


Signature compliments of F-I-E-R-O
2003 3800SC series II powered
www.photosled.com/showgallery.php/cat/631
www.photosled.com/showgallery/cat/1583

we are replacing the crank sensor to see if thats the problem. than if that doesnt work i will change ignition module car does crank but no spark and no injector pulse. module has power injector has power when car cranks o rpm does any body have any other ideas on what to look for. we did change the ground connections and still nothing now we will cange the crank sensor. i will keep everyone informed.Has anyone else run into this problem

There is nothing else to look at, its as simple as getting spark first, then coming back here if you have problems. You need spark to get injector action, I wouldnt even have the PCM hooked up at this step in case you have some serious wiring issues.

Spark is VERY easy to get assuming your wiring is correct, and even if it isnt all there it should still run with little to no problems. The reason i say this is there are a few wires that just offer the PCM information concerning missffires and knocking, without those the car will still run, just not right.

if we disconnect the pcm will cars ignition still work to start car might be stupid question but i am not that mechanically inclined

Um, yes thats why I said that to specifically prove the point that you dont need a PCM at all to get spark.

disconnected pcm still no spark haven't changed crank sensor yet i appreciate everyone's help any one in north jersey area familiar with this swap im in west milford area

quote Originally posted by joebaldie: disconnected pcm still no spark haven't changed crank sensor yet i appreciate everyone's help any one in north jersey area familiar with this swap im in west milford area

Change out the ICM and see what happens. Make sure all the wires in the harness from the ICM to the engine harness are in tact and none have been cut. It doesnt take much to blow a ICM and once its gone so is spark. Also make sure the connectors to the CPSs are hooked up and the harness in that area has not came in contact with any pulleys.

icm locally is 300 plus dollars trying cps first

quote Originally posted by joebaldie: icm locally is 300 plus dollars trying cps first

Hit up CGP--can get them for about $15 or so. Might even be able to find a CGP member local so you can pick them up.

Its fairly common to mix up the white wires on the ICM harness....

You said that you extended it, I would go through and check continuity on that extension harness, you might have a bad connection in there.

the icm harness was not re wired
it was not extended

[This message has been edited by joebaldie (edited 11-16-2007).]

Is your battery FULLY charged? When mine drops a few volts, the car will crank and crank, but will not fire.

battery is brand new fully charged

I was talking with the mechanic on the phone this afternoon and suggested he meter through the white wire from pin A of the ignition module connector to make sure it is connected to pin 54 of the C1 PCM connector just to be sure as it is very easy to mix those two white wires up. Like I mentioned earlier I meter every wire from each sensor to the PCM during assembly to make sure of proper connection and that no wires are broken but no body is perfect that is why we have warranties.
I would definetely suspect the ignition module more then the crank sensor, if it is a matter of cost I can ship you one of my spare modules to try before you go through all the work of changing the crank sensor. Even better would be if some one in your area has one you can try to save the time waiting on shipping. Dan

Yea, fairly rare for a crank sensor to go, but it is possible.

i second the mixed up white wires. i double checked my harness (i thought) to avoid confusion with those white wires and had the same exact problem. if i remember right, theres 2 white wires and a white/black wire, so it would be easy to make the mistake

we checked the white wires everything is good there we're gonna take your advice and change the icm first once again i appreciate everyones help. will keep everyone posted on progress

I love a happy ending

Good to hear she is up and running now time for some fun driving. Dan