Alright, I need to rebuild the Iron Duke, she's got 300,000 miles and there was oil on the 2 and 3 cylinder's plugs. What is the best kit, highest quality, money is no object (I'm not rich, I just want the best quality)
I used Northern auto parts rebuild kit, very cheap, fast shipping and 1500+ miles so far with no problems. I bought their kit without pistons or cam for $131.
Comp Cams 52-000-5 260-8/260-8 h114+4 serial# J 4037 03658464155 Valve springs 988-8 1.400 2 spring assembly lifters 864-8 Pont 151 hyd lifter
Crane Cams Energizer rocker arms BTW while looking for the box for the part #'s I found said box and low and behold I still 13744-16 have 8 NEW rockers in the box. Anyone wanna make an offer? Fel-Pro head bolt set ES72733 future # 21-1117
Cloyes Gear Alloy gear set Have no idea what the part number was Just get one as the fiber gear will give up on you when you least want it to.
Badger Pistons "Diamond Turned" Yes I realize I went with a .030 over bore when i have been saying not to. Don't remember why I did. Maybe I needed to in order to use this particular block. P483-030 Federal Mogul sealed Power( i think these were the piston rings) E-381X 30
Not sure what rods I used but I believe they were Badger's too. Sorry no part #
How difficult is it to rebuild a duke? Any thread links on the process?
Can't be any more difficult than any other cam-in-block engine is I would think.
------------------ "Naturally, people don't want war,but after all, it is the leaders of a country who determine the policy, and it is always a simple matter to drag people along whether it is a democracy, or a fascist dictatorship, or a parliament, or a communist dictatorship. Voice or no voice, the people can always be brought to the bidding of the leaders. This is easy. All you have to do is tell them they are being attacked, and denounce the pacifists for lack of patriotism and exposing the country to danger. It works the same in every country." -Hermann Goering
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01:05 PM
PFF
System Bot
jetman Member
Posts: 7799 From: Sterling Heights Mich Registered: Dec 2002
Its nothing really terrible. take it apart, clean it, get a machine shop to press in cam bearings and possibly bore cylinders or resurface the crank, and then put it back together. I dont recall any caveats to my rebuild, except you will want to prime the oil pump by hand before you crank the engine.
Make sure your rockers and guide plates arent worn down. One of the rockers on my head slipped over (somehow... ) and the edge of the valve stem worn into the face of the rocker and shifted the pushrod over onto the guidplate so it made a nice round groove right into it by simply rubbing.
[This message has been edited by AP2k (edited 11-08-2007).]
I just looked thru the chilton(old one) and haynes(new),I have both,, the chilton is better because it has info on the transmission rebuild also, the haynes is better for just the engine because of the photos, my chilton manual is 17 years old,, I think the new one may be better??? but do not know!!..the chilton is the superior manual, but for the inexperienced, the haynes is better,you can use the blank page behind the engine rebuild section to enter info from pennock,, it reads easier...when buying a fiero always ask for the manual unless purchased from a fiero gigolo.. CHILTON wins by a transmission section!!
[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 11-08-2007).]
) and the edge of the valve stem worn into the face of the rocker and shifted the pushrod over onto the guidplate so it made a nice round groove right into it by simply rubbing.
