Well it seemed fine at first but now i am getting about 6* or more of KR on my setup. I only get it when i get into about 1/2 to 3/4 boost. The only thing i can think of that might cause that is When i take off with my 4spd I sometimes can hear something that sounds like its banging up against the firewall. That is the only time it happens tho, only when i take off. I checked under the car and could not find a thing at all! Anyone have the same problem? Me and my father did the same layouts for the swap as Loyd at Fast Fieros of Dallas does.

Anyone else have problems with KR with a similar setup?

thanks

------------------

-1986 GT
-Swapped 2001 GTP motor Series II with 40k miles
-Auto Meter gauge pod (Oil, Boost, Battery)
-3.4 Pulley
-True cold air intake
-Flowmaster 80 series muffler with 2.5inch mendrel bent exhaust tubing

The first symptom of knocking, is assuming its false. So, honestly in most every case knock is never false, even more so if you can repeat it.

The trick with manual setups, is your maf curve has to be dead on in places that are not used to seeing boost. A posted scan can show whats happening so we can diagnose it.

Your problem with banging at start off sounds like bad mounts or your dog bone is not strong enough allowing the engine to move under heavy torque. Manual tranny swaps put a lot more strain then the autos at start from a dead stop and require more solid mounting.
Your problem with KR could be the 3.4" pulley has your PCM been preogrammed to work with your set up, not a generic program I mean an actual custom one done just for your car on your car. Some cars easily get away with using the 3.4" pulley and some do not not matter how much tuning is done. A 3.5"ulley may work better in your case unless you are planning further mods down the road to allow for smaller pulleys. Dan

------------------


Signature compliments of F-I-E-R-O
2003 3800SC series II powered
www.photosled.com/showgallery.php/cat/631
www.photosled.com/showgallery/cat/1583

What major parameters should i be logging with my scanner to determine what needs to be fix/adjusted?

thanks all

everything, rpm, o2, kr, TPS and the typical other stuff, desired a/f, ltft,

Is your IAT plugged in??/

Well i took her out again tonight and logged some of the paremeters. I can only log 10 at a time. I had it to half throttle 5-7psi where i got 6* before and this time i got 1.47* max the whole time.

How do you export the excel spreadsheet on here?

V good catch.

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 11-08-2007).]

www.scandepot.net

I forgot to put timing advance as one of your scanning params.

Well this morning when we were trying to fix a problem with my fiero temp gauge not working we were checking other things. We noticed in the engine compartment that the battery had little flakes of rubber from something(most certainly the belt) so we searched and found out that the supercharger belt was only hanging half on the crank lol. We made sure we put it on correctly but i guess reving it high could of done it. Any of you guys think that might of caused the KR? I got it parked for now. The crank seal is leaking so we are gonna fix that first then put a new belt on.


Here is my scan from the other day.
http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4565

Thanks,
Tommy

[This message has been edited by CorvetteFan86 (edited 11-10-2007).]

Its most likely some torque managment that you didnt get rid of, or real knock. I didnt see any O2 readings on the scan, but I dont think I needed them really, it seems that whenever you go int PE, you knock shortly after.

What is PE? Well this morning we put the pulley back on how it should be and ran it again. 1/2 to 3/4 i got 6* plus again. We have looked at everything so i have decided to switch pulley sizes. With my setup should i just go back to the stock 3.8 pulley and troubleshoot from there? How do you guys troubleshoot when you get to my point?

thanks all

Tommy

[This message has been edited by CorvetteFan86 (edited 11-11-2007).]

well, PE is power enrichment, thats when your desired air/fuel starts going quite rich to make power (about 12.5:1)

Sometimes if the PCM is not sensing load correctly, it wont drop down into the rich mode quickly enough.

Well i decided to go ahead and get a 3.6 pulley to help get rid of hopefully all the KR. I plan on modding it in the future so i figured spending $50 compared to $500 for a dyno test and tune makes more sense.


Thanks all for your help,
Tommy "Gunz"

I would not assume that a bigger pulley will cure part throttle knock. You never made any full open runs so we really couldnt tell anything as to whats going on in that aspect.

Also you never said what gear it was in. My friend has a 3.2 pulley on his setup and he knocks unless he downshifts correctly. High load on your motor will cause knock with no supercharger, so this is just the knock sensors doing what they do.

Send the 3.6 pulley back and do some more scanning and troubleshooting. I doubt the problem is the pulley size.

[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 11-12-2007).]

The KR would happen when i get into boost no matter what gear. And also i would not get into it because if i was hitting 6* then what if i stomp it and hit 12* or more? Most certainly this will not be a good thing on the motor if it wouldnt blow up first.

Well, you dont know that it is technicly dangerous knock quite yet. Have you actually seen 6+ degrees of knock?

How is any kind of true knock not dangerous knock? Any kind of knock in the figures i am describing cannot be a good thing. Yes on the last scan i did it was a little over 6* and i dont really want to push it until it does knock. Because by then your too late. You have already done some damage.

[This message has been edited by CorvetteFan86 (edited 11-12-2007).]

hmm, I dont see 1-2 psi less boost saving you from 6+ degrees if this is true engine knock, you have to remember that your hardly commanding even 12 degrees of timing while this is happening, so if you knock that down to 6 degrees, you technically should be able to to run 20+psi without noticeable knocking.

What specifically was done with the pcm in this car, IE is it stock, did loyde tune it, or was it a custom deal?

Lloyd tuned it to my specs. Ex. Manual tranny, 3.4 pulley, etc

Well I guess this is just another typical loyde tune, but the fuel trims are acceptable enough that you shouldnt be leaning out.

Get a scan with o2s and this time just roll really quick into wide open throttle, do a shift, then stay wide open for a bit. that way we can collect data that is a bit less subjective.

What tuner do you use?

I posted in your other thread, DHP.

I dont think I prefer it, but it works well enough. I think its a bit un-nessisary for you to get into tuning right now, I have spent COUNTLESS hours just learning things from locals, not to mention forum/internet crawling i have done. Tuning is as loyde puts it "very hard and you wouldnt want a newb screwing around with it", and I really do see how that is quite true.

A vast majority of people I see get tuners, use them to scan, and change a few transmission settings, and anything beyond that they are lost and they dont mess with it. Not saying that would be the case here its just that making headway with a tuner only comes after careful planning and hours of trial and error.

Get these scans so we can see if this is false, torque management, or real knock. The only way it is real knock is if you are going lean, or you have too much boost for your setup. the only way I could see boost being a problem is a horrid exhaust and intake setup, other than that you should be fine. You might also want to try and get some autolite 104 plugs, gapped to .550, a 180T stat, AND MORE SCANS.

Get a scan with desired a/f ratio on it, and also get some scans with you just driving around normal for awhile. Try to make sure speed is on there, weither it works correctly or not (the last loyde file I had showed like 15mph at 60mph actual, which caused TONS of problems).

Well we fixed the crank seal and got it back together. We put the belts back on and fixed the blower belt that was hanging off the crank pulley by one rib. I took it out tonight and did a number of scans, wow what a difference. The most i got this time was 3.75 i believe at FULL THROTTLE. I took a look at the scans and especially the oxygen sensors ones and the readings are very weird. Almost everytime i got kr i started running rich. Here are my scans for today.

Just so you guys know. 900mv is running rich and 100mv is running lean for the Oxygen sensor.

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4584
http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4585
http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4586
http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4582
http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4583
http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4581
http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4580

[This message has been edited by CorvetteFan86 (edited 11-14-2007).]

I am looking at the first scan right now and that looks perfectly normal. The only thing I see out of place is your only commanding 12 degrees of timing, and running SLIGHTLY rich (high 11's via the 910-940 readings on the o2). You are getting what I call "bog knock" and it can not be fixed at all, and does not really need to be. You in much to high a gear to go wide open, I am going to look around for a time you actually downshifted and ran out the gear, but even my friends cobalts knock like crazy when you toss the pedal down in 4/5th gear going slow. Your running rich enough to kill off the usual knock found in grand prix's and stuff, so its not "real knock", your car is perfectly safe you just dont know how to drive it yet.

50:26 550 183.2 0.00 12.0 -4.7 T.O. 100.0 910 3 2388 66.2
50:27 550 183.2 3.19 11.0 -0.8 T.O. 100.0 935 3 2483 66.2
50:28 550 183.2 1.64 12.5 -0.8 T.O. 100.0 940 3 2601 66.2
50:28 550 183.2 0.00 14.0 -0.8 T.O. 100.0 940 3 2686 66.2
50:29 550 183.2 0.00 13.0 -0.8 T.O. 70.6 940 3 2776 66.2

in this hunk of data, you can see the knock go away when your rpms get going, but you cant just go wide open in your top gear while going slow, try downshifting or poke through the scans and show me some time you actually put the car in the correct gear.

I dont know why loyde nuked your timing, but anyway, I would scan for desired a/f ratio, and get MPH in there so you can see when your knocking.

I am used to seeing a shift every 5-6 cells, and I only am seeing like a 1000rpm rise in RPM's for those same cells, you really just need to downshift.

I still dont know why you dont have a standing "1/4 mile run" type scan, its the only time dangerous things will be showing up, everything else is basically "un editable" anyway,

[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 11-15-2007).]

I am pretty sure those scans were when i was punching it full throttle on the interstate in 4th gear. The scanner i have only lets you log 10 parameters at a time. Ill have to change some things around and do some more scanning. Thank you for your help, It is greatly appreciated.

Tommy

[This message has been edited by CorvetteFan86 (edited 11-15-2007).]

you scan looks good, but you cannot base fueling off a nb02

get a wideband. i had my gtp tuned to 940 o2's on a BRAND NEW denso o2, and i got my wideband hooked up and it was 10.3:1 on 940 o2'

i know it may be stupid question, but you put premium in it right??

go fill her up with race gas, anything over 100octane, and see if the knock goes away. if it does, its real, if not, its fake.


if it doesn't go away, you need to play with the acceleration enrichment table, increasing the fuel percentage at the tps that you get burst kr. ONLY DO THIS AFTER YOU SETERMINE IF THE KNOCK IS REAL. ONLY MAKE SMALL CHANGES AT A TIME.

also, you r car will run better with a 3.6 and 18* of timing then with a 3.4 and 10* of timing.


what are all of your supporting mods for the 3.4??

kind of looks like to me that loyde f-ed up your timing

quote Originally posted by scooz14: you scan looks good, but you cannot base fueling off a nb02 get a wideband. i had my gtp tuned to 940 o2's on a BRAND NEW denso o2, and i got my wideband hooked up and it was 10.3:1 on 940 o2' i know it may be stupid question, but you put premium in it right?? go fill her up with race gas, anything over 100octane, and see if the knock goes away. if it does, its real, if not, its fake. if it doesn't go away, you need to play with the acceleration enrichment table, increasing the fuel percentage at the tps that you get burst kr. ONLY DO THIS AFTER YOU SETERMINE IF THE KNOCK IS REAL. ONLY MAKE SMALL CHANGES AT A TIME. also, you r car will run better with a 3.6 and 18* of timing then with a 3.4 and 10* of timing. what are all of your supporting mods for the 3.4??

Scooz, you have never scanned a manual swap have you? This knock is very common for a manual, and basically it should be ignored. We need to see a scan where a proper downshift or near redline shifting is performed to determine that the engine is knocking. AE is really usless in a manual car, as its not even really used at all. We know that he is somewhat on the rich side via the narrowband, and getting a tuner/wideband is not going to cure this problem, I have tried and it just doesnt work.

The biggest reason why I say AE is useless is because this loyde guy turns off the VSS in the pcm, so you dont run into torque management, yes it is much easier and a better idea to run a VSS and dump torque management, which is what I do, but for some reason this dude doesnt do that.

We really dont know much about your real timing, because most timing curves do give about that timing down that low in the RPM band, we really just need a few 30-80mph runs shifting at redline to see how the car is running. The knock sensors are doing their job down in the low end like that, they are taking out the timing that is dangerous, and if you have ever messed with your TCC lockup tables scooz (I did a little Jerry h mods on mine for a while) if you lock the TCC while going up a big hill or accelerating on the edge of TCC unlock and making boost, you WILL knock no matter how good you are tuned, its will behave just like most any N/A motor would under load.

One example, on the way to do the track in the manual swap, I scanned the whole way, picking up at times 5 degrees of knock, when in a high gear just flooring it, yet with no changes at the track, he ran a 12.6 with just a 3.4 pulley, and not even a hint of knock on the scanner. His o2's locked at 920 for a bit then dipped down as he shifted which is fairly normal as the narrowband heats up, but us narrowband guys look at that last when it comes to tuning anyway, I prefer the "lean it out till it knocks" method. I never really did any extensive maf curve tuning past part throttle stuff, but even with a 3.2, completely stock everything else but 1.9 moddeds bolted on, he still never knocks. Manual fieros could easily handle a 3.4 pulley with any setup as long as the fueling is close, and with his trims locking around 0, and his part throttle trims around +-5, his fueling is close enough.

Our autos dont have this problem because the maf/map sensors tell the trans when to downshift, he has to do it himself.

[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 11-15-2007).]

it is very weird knock, but your commanded timing is lower then stock.

i didn't even see it was a manual tranny, i do see where you are coming from thought whit the random blips of knock.

Timing around the low 2000's on my spark table are a bit lower than stock, but only by about 1-2 depending on what way you look at it. I imagine loyde has ran across this problem and attempted to fix it with lowering base timing in this area. I also assume he has bumped the 400-600 range of timing but its hard to tell from just looking at that scan.

What is a normal or average timing amount?

------------------

-1986 GT
-Swapped 2001 GTP motor Series II with 40k miles
-Auto Meter gauge pod (Oil, Boost, Battery)
-3.4 Pulley
-True cold air intake, 3" inlet
-180* Thermostat
-Ported Exhaust Manifolds
-Flowmaster 80 series muffler with 2.5inch mendrel bent exhaust tubing

stock wide open timing should be 15-16ish ( I have never actually ran "true stock" timing, but mine are only slightly off stock and its stil 16 most the time)

On a completely unrelated note, what does your boost gauge say at wide open?

[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 11-16-2007).]

Scott Wolforth ( aka Dark Horizon ) you have nothing more to do than run me down some more in one sentence, then a few posts later say.. “I am looking at the first scan right now and that looks perfectly normal.” …Normal has in this is the same PCM a few earlier posts you indicated was tuned by me and was junk.

You may think you are the know all end to PCM tuning, but what you do not offer is resolution in practical application. If you want to run someone down and tell everyone you know what is right for tuning, lets see your offers to get a PCM shipped to you, and you open the code, fix the PCM to your perfection of tuning, and posts some comparison tables as to what was the problem and why it was the problem. Lets see your understanding of the GM PCM code and how it works. What is the flow path of the sensors Scott? What takes precedence over what sensor? What table is omitted at WOT vs 0-90% TPS ? Educate us here on PFF with all your knowledge and tuning skills Scott.

Back in April 2004 ( this was when HPTuners released the first tuning cable and software ) I was on a mission to crack DHP’s 1.0 PCM since they had this nice lock on being able to download the file from the PCM, and then change the file, and be able to upload the file back to the PCM. Why was this important? Because DHP was the only people with GM Cal Tools at that time that was tuning PCM’s for people. GM Cal Tools shows just over 3000 parameters inside the V6 PCM. 3000 parameters.. HPTuners allows access to just over 200 on the V6 PCM. 200 vs 3000… I am sure there is code in that PCM that not even Chris at HPTuners still knows exactly what does. So here was my mission to crack this PCM. Well, I finally did it July 2004. Here was all the code for the 1.0 file fixed back to GM code specs so it was able to upload and download. I didn’t care about all the threats from DHP about me cracking and releasing their code back to the owners of the PCM.. in my opinion, the PCM was purchased at $500 in some cases for people, and if they wanted to buy HPTuners, they should be able to tune the PCM with 1.0 because they paid for it. It was not DHP’s code, it was GM code to start out with. It was locked with the seed and key concept to keep the average person from getting the code from the PCM by GM. The files in 2004 even had “ Property of GM Delphi “ in code if you opened it in a Hex editor. That was pretty funny seeing that the first time when I had opened 100’s of 97-03 files and never was this property rights stamped in there. I then posted on various forums that I will fix any 1.0 PCM for a whole $50 included shipping of the PCM. Later as more people got HPTuners, and could just email me the files, I only charged $40 to fix these files. But one thing I was learning was that 1.0 was not the same for everyone. I have 1000’s of BIN files for the 3800 PCM from every company that exists.

The “ Loyde File “ is from someone that has many more hours of reading and practical application of tuning a PCM than you do is at least trying to help people directly instead of run someone down on the internet in the forums. Put your mouth to good use and offer to take in someone’s PCM and put the DarkHorizon tune on it. Heck, I will even send you a PCM and money to get your all great tune experience right before my eyes. Feel free to lock the PCM you send to me also. I can unlock PCM’s with encrypted seed and keys.

I have posted this before, but you fail to see it I am sure because it was in 2005 when you were still trying to think about putting a 3800 in your Fiero….

I have scanned about 500 PCM’s in various cars. I have used every popular scanning software package because I own them all either today, or at one time and then sold them because they are junk. Why is a scanning piece of software junk? First off, the V6 and V8 do not adhere to the same scanning formula’s. What works for a V8 PCM does not work for a V6. The V8 PCM market is still today 10 times more than the V6 market. Software designers will concentrate on getting something out there that works for V8 PCM’s and oh, well, the V6 has some of the same parameters, so, yes you can scan them too… well, that is not the case. I have seen scan tools with the formula’s incorrect for the data stream captures. The timing table is one of those. Each OSID is a new road map of the code, and changes that effect was is being read by a scanner. There are about 8 OSID’s per model, per engine, per year of the V6 PCM’s. HPtuners chased reworks of the scanning part of the software for months trying to get all the formula’s and methods of per OSID. Some release’s the timing would scan 20-40 degrees of timing, but the OFFICIAL GM Tech II would show the real world degrees of 10-22 degrees… Then on some release’s the timing would show 0 all the time. Wrong formula’s for that OSID in the scanning software. HPTuners would rework the software, send a new release to that person ONLY that found the error, and then in the next full release, it had the updates in case someone else had that same OSID.

Don’t run me down Scott… you have a problem with me personally, you send me an email and state your issue. Then you back up your issue. If you want to post your ill feelings, you better back them up with some proof and not some lies about how you are the fix all tuning guy, but yet you do not offer this service. I don’t run anyone’s poly mounts down because I don’t make a better mount, and I am not going to make a better mount any time soon. I fix the issue and deal with it myself. There is no reason for me to run anyone down over it. I use to run DHP Powrtuner down. Not because I was using HPTuners, but I felt that Powrtuner was not being developed to what Charles said it was going to be, and he was no better than HPT by not releasing the other 2000 plus parameters that Cal Tools can get to. However, over the last 3 years, I now know what it takes to develop software that is capable of uploading and downloading a PCM, then opening the BIN file to an editor to show the real world numbers, change the numbers, and save the file in a working format for the PCM to use. It is all extremely complicated, it is targeted to so small a group of people in this world, there is no justification in the man hours and money that is expensed to this work. I am happy today that DHP got Cal Tools in 1998 and then pissed off Keith at HPTuners in 1999 so the DIY tuning site was born.. out of that was what became HPTuners, and now today they are owned by SuperChips.

So Scott, post your price. Post your tuning efforts to everyone. Post your timing tables for all to see, and please feel free to post my tables for comparison. Then I will post you some from DHP, CYA, ZZP, PCM performance, 200 individual tuners out there…. You better understand when something does not look right in a scan, that the scanning software was wrote by a human that tried his best to understand the PCM code, and then better have done his/her homework to know that all OSID’s are going to be covered for this scanning function.

Something else I posted before here on PFF and CGP…

The KR dilemma …
If you scanned some STOCK Grand Prix PCM’s for many hours as I have, you would find the following issues….
KR = Knock retard for some reason… there are many reasons this can happen.. A completely stock engine in a Grand Prix in Dallas Texas, can show the following…
6 degrees of KR under acceleration all day long. Why? It’s a completely stock engine. 6 degrees wow, is that really bad? The answer is yes in a perfect world. But we live in imperfection when the car is designed by humans with real lives. Nothing is perfect.
KR is like this…

0-6 = GM specs … deemed ok under conditions that do not prolong the use of FULL power ( WOT ).. its not a racecar, it’s a daily driver to get you to work and the grocery store.
6-8 = its getting to the point of danger and under full power ( WOT ), you will feel the engine lose power as the PCM tries to pull timing..
8-10 = you can hear it. If you can hear it, and you do not back out in milliseconds, you are going to chip a piston.
10-12 = you heard it for more than 2 seconds, chances are you chipped the piston and further damage will occur if you WOT just about 2 more times under this amount..
12-14 = you should have never drove the car… I have only seen 12 one time. I have seen many people post on forums they saw 12, and 2 days later they had knocking rods…

What about this ‘false knock” ….

We mod these engines far beyond stock. Poly mounts, tinging exhaust, loose chains in automatic transmissions, low lug conditions with manual transmissions that were never designed to be on high HP high torque conditions… and the list goes on…

Help people Scott, don’t run someone down that is trying pretty hard to be a part of a small community and has been far longer than you.

Loyde

Why am I running you down, I keep saying there are no scans here that show anything, I am not saying I know what I am tuning more than you or anything.

I simply say that this issue of knocking at wide open in a high gear is common, and that the timing at these low RPM levels seems low to me. Saying that 6 degrees of knock at wide open on any car is quite possibly as dumb as saying 14.7:1 afr is good for wide open

I have already verified that your tuning competence is very low when looking at the file you loaded on the local VS cam car. It was so far off and out of wack, we just threw it away and loaded on a stock file modified. I also did all of this without stealing from charles beyerch.

[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 11-16-2007).]

Lets have a name with that VS cam file.. is that going to turn out to be the same as the "wiring harness that Loyde built broke in the middle of no where"....

that thread was put in the trash can before many people saw the end result of your lies...

you claimed to be the fix all god of Anthony’s wiring while I did nothing to help this guy in a time of desperate need.

I should have called Anthony long before I finally did to get the real story, but in my mind was the fact that if he wanted something bad enough from me, he could call or email again, and I never got either. So I called him to get the real story…

Just to recap your memory about that issue…. Anthony had his car running many months on my wiring harness. I cant remember if it was him, or someone else, but they worked on the belts, moved the wiring, and in ERROR, got the wiring to close to the exhaust manifold. The wiring did in fact melt to the point of causing a short. Fuse blew. Anthony was not in the middle of nowhere, but was surely not close to home either. He called me first. However, I did not answer the phone ( I know what day it was now, and I was out of town.. NO CELL SERVICE ), and he needed some type of assistance right then.. He next called one of your friends that he knew, and they recommended he might call you for assistance. You did in fact recommend checking the wiring, and checking the fuses… END OF YOUR assistance. Anthony pulled on the wiring, found the burn spot, replaced the blown fuse, and on his way he was… He never came to your house, you never personally put your hands on that wiring, you post that the error was my wiring harness and it in fact was user error by not having proper heat management around wiring at all times. I can go out here to my 2003 Silverado and pull the wiring harness off the firewall and drop it on the exhaust manifold. Does that make it GM’s fault for building a crappy harness? No, my error in thinking I can just pull my wiring around and if it lands on a hot exhaust manifold, it will be ok… You posted and made out like you removed and replaced that harness. You posted I was in so much error on that issue, and all you did was exploit a situation to PFF to run me down. Anthony does not have time to come to this forum and see your lies, so you know you can exploit it to your liking all you want.

As to stealing code? I guess it ok for you to load that ‘stock’ GM file and then turn around and change all those settings…. Why didn’t you just get out your Modula programming and compile your own piece of code to run in the Delphi architecture? Oh, I see, you cannot do that. You can steal the GM code and change it, and then call it your own… So you posted many months ago how you pulled my code from PCM’s … you did not get my permission to that. You stealing my code? Its my code.. I can show you compares to DHP 1.0, 1.5, custom dyno’ed, and all will be different in many ways to my code. Because what runs in Illinois is not going to be golden for Texas. The weather is to different for one thing.

Your just a lost little kid behind the keyboard searching for an identity to grow up in. I hope someday you learn to be yourself, and be helpful, and not try destroy other people lives.

Loyde

You stole charles 1.0 file, added a changed a very easy setting on it, then sold it as your own. If you say you found some copyright information in there, so be it, you still stole it and sold it as your own with no considerations from charles, you actually got banned from charles personal tuning forum because of this.

The only reason I pulled your code off was to see what I was working with, it was promptly DELETED and rebuilt from the ground up. I didnt even bother reading the file, as my tools do not have many options for looking at the other 90% of the file that we dont care about. I have never sold a pcm, sold advice, sold "wiring schematics" or sold wiring harnesses, so I have never stolen anything of yours for personal gain.

You are the one freaking out and bringing up things that do not belong, explain your part for whatever it is you are trying to explain about why 6 degrees of knock is a good thing and leave. I doubt vettefan here wants to hear about how crappy your business methods are. What I want to know is what happened to your series3 tap shift swap hmm? I think it has something to do with your transmission programming nuking the trans a few hundred miles after you finished it, causing the owner to be stuck somewhere IIRC, but i doubt you would want to bring that up either.

You are the one that has been banned from both club gp and charles's forum, and sold dhp copyrighted files to HPtuners, I dont see how I am a crook here for trying to offer advice on something I am experienced with? This fourm is not about who is better than who, its just simply a place to offer advice, if you think my advice on this situation is wrong, refute it, but dont try to refute me as it will get you nothing but labeled as a bully picking on me just because you "have a bigger toolbox" than me. The fact that you have all these great tools and super indepth access to the pcm code file, does not mean you have any clue what you are doing. A man can go buy a garage with every tool in the world in it, but he has to know how to use them to do anything with it, so dont think just because you have a large amount of money and possibly time invested in this, does not mean you have any idea what you are doing.

I really dont understand why you keep saying I am lying about things, I am sure I have never lied about anything I have ever said. Aside from that, i dont think i see bill gates posting on every linux forum out there every time someone says that windows sucks. Just because I have an opinion about what is going on, does not mean I am lying about anything, as I have absolutely no motive to do so. I gain NOTHING by pointing out what I think you do, I simply offer people an outside opinion in this world where opinions outside of yours are fairly scarce.

[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 11-16-2007).]

quote Originally posted by darkhorizon: You stole charles 1.0 file, added a changed a very easy setting on it, then sold it as your own. If you say you found some copyright information in there, so be it, you still stole it and sold it as your own with no considerations from charles, you actually got banned from charles personal tuning forum because of this. You are the one freaking out and bringing up things that do not belong, explain your part for whatever it is you are trying to explain about why 6 degrees of knock is a good thing and leave. I doubt vettefan here wants to hear about how crappy your business methods are. What I want to know is what happened to your series3 tap shift swap hmm? I think it has something to do with your transmission programming nuking the trans a few hundred miles after you finished it, causing the owner to be stuck somewhere IIRC, but i doubt you would want to bring that up either. You are the one that has been banned from both club gp and charles's forum, and sold dhp copyrighted files to HPtuners, I dont see how I am a crook here for trying to offer advice on something I am experienced with? This fourm is not about who is better than who, its just simply a place to offer advice, if you think my advice on this situation is wrong, refute it, but dont try to refute me as it will get you nothing but labeled as a bully picking on me just because you "have a bigger toolbox" than me. The fact that you have all these great tools and super indepth access to the pcm code file, does not mean you have any clue what you are doing. A man can go buy a garage with every tool in the world in it, but he has to know how to use them to do anything with it, so dont think just because you have a large amount of money and possibly time invested in this, does not mean you have any idea what you are doing. I really dont understand why you keep saying I am lying about things, I am sure I have never lied about anything I have ever said. Aside from that, i dont think i see bill gates posting on every linux forum out there every time someone says that windows sucks. Just because I have an opinion about what is going on, does not mean I am lying about anything, as I have absolutely no motive to do so. I gain NOTHING by pointing out what I think you do, I simply offer people an outside opinion in this world where opinions outside of yours are fairly scarce.

If Loyde stole files from Charles then that mean Charles stole it from GM, which means every other vendor/home tuner has stolen the files that they use. So that makes everyone who has tuned on a PCM(including yourself) a THIEF--RIGHT? I dont think you know the whole behind the scene story of how DHP got started with thier files and how it was done way back when. If you have ever read Charles replies to customers over on CGP, then you would see that it wouldnt be hard to be banned from his own site.

The S3 tapshift car had more than a few hundred miles on it before it even left Texas and I dont remember it nuking the trans. Matter of fact, it made it to one of the local shows that year and was running great. Was pretty impressive being this was the first of its kind and it took alot of work and knowledge to figure it all out. I didnt keep tabs on the car so really dont know forsure what happen to it after it left Texas. If something did happen to the trans, whos to say what happened to it was anything to do with the tuning. I mean there is always hear say and those that think they know but there is never any facts to back it all up.

You did lie about re-working the harness on Anthonys car cause it was all wrong and that it junk. I mean like said above, you never even tounched that harness but said you did all this work to it. That would be what is called a lie--saying you did something but never did.

Your opionions are what you are allowed to post but then you have to have facts to back them up when they are putting down others. You continue to bring Loydes name up in Threads about tuning but never have any proof of wrong doing, except supposly what you saw wrong. The fact is your not giving your opionion but throwing jabs at Loyde every chance you get in hopes of hurting his reputation.


If you are so good at tuning and 3800 installs then you should begin to offer you service to the Fiero community like others do. You could be the guy who does the low budget swaps for those that only have a few bucks to spend and dont really want a reliable car. You really need to grow up and learn from those that have been around the business for a while and stop trying to be a bigshot.

quote Originally posted by darkhorizon: You stole charles 1.0 file, added a changed a very easy setting on it, then sold it as your own. If you say you found some copyright information in there, so be it, you still stole it and sold it as your own with no considerations from charles, you actually got banned from charles personal tuning forum because of this. The only reason I pulled your code off was to see what I was working with, it was promptly DELETED and rebuilt from the ground up. I didnt even bother reading the file, as my tools do not have many options for looking at the other 90% of the file that we dont care about. I have never sold a pcm, sold advice, sold "wiring schematics" or sold wiring harnesses, so I have never stolen anything of yours for personal gain. You are the one freaking out and bringing up things that do not belong, explain your part for whatever it is you are trying to explain about why 6 degrees of knock is a good thing and leave. I doubt vettefan here wants to hear about how crappy your business methods are. What I want to know is what happened to your series3 tap shift swap hmm? I think it has something to do with your transmission programming nuking the trans a few hundred miles after you finished it, causing the owner to be stuck somewhere IIRC, but i doubt you would want to bring that up either. You are the one that has been banned from both club gp and charles's forum, and sold dhp copyrighted files to HPtuners, I dont see how I am a crook here for trying to offer advice on something I am experienced with? This fourm is not about who is better than who, its just simply a place to offer advice, if you think my advice on this situation is wrong, refute it, but dont try to refute me as it will get you nothing but labeled as a bully picking on me just because you "have a bigger toolbox" than me. The fact that you have all these great tools and super indepth access to the pcm code file, does not mean you have any clue what you are doing. A man can go buy a garage with every tool in the world in it, but he has to know how to use them to do anything with it, so dont think just because you have a large amount of money and possibly time invested in this, does not mean you have any idea what you are doing. I really dont understand why you keep saying I am lying about things, I am sure I have never lied about anything I have ever said. Aside from that, i dont think i see bill gates posting on every linux forum out there every time someone says that windows sucks. Just because I have an opinion about what is going on, does not mean I am lying about anything, as I have absolutely no motive to do so. I gain NOTHING by pointing out what I think you do, I simply offer people an outside opinion in this world where opinions outside of yours are fairly scarce.

Series 3 TAP shift install with ISSUES????????????????????? Bring on the info you have Scott Wolforth... Who purchased the car? Let me help you William ?? ... Where is the car located? I have no idea the tid bits of information you gain by here say, but you need far better sources than what you are getting from today.

That 88 GT ( build here > http://www.fastfieros.com/p...loyde_3800/index.htm ) went out of here 100% running, and did not break down on the way home. The issue transmission related was the customer requested the Intense limited slip, so I installed the limited slip.. 30 days later Intense Racing was exposed on Club Grand Prix for knowingly installing a failing part 3 months after the fact of knowing. They covered up transmission blow ups with user error of PCM programming. I had to inform William that the limited slip was a failing part, and Intense would replace the diff. However, he was going to have to take it to a transmission shop and get this done at his expense, ship the car back to me and I would do it for FREE, or do the work himself and I would help him in doing it in any way I could. He chose to do the work himself, and even sent me pictures of the oil in the pan showing the limited slip was already coming apart and showing bonze shavings. He changed the oil and filter, and so far 30,000 miles later, it is still running 100%. He has mod’ed the engine a lot further, and dyno’ed something like 315 at the tires I believe he said. So, unless you have some different PROOF of this story, you are wrong and spreading/creating rumors to feed your own mind.

I have NEVER been banned from Club Grand Prix. I am FastFieros on there today, just like I was in 4-4-02 when I finally joined the forum to even post. I was banned from DHP tuning site for always correcting Charles errors once, and then a 2nd time for being accused of going into business with ZZPerformance. Not HPTuners. I am not the one that SOLD DHP files to HPTuners. I do however know who it was, and he is mentioned here on PFF at least 10-20 times a week. He does not post here on this Forum however.

I did not steal DHP 1.0 files. I paid for them, and it was my personal gain to be able to tune MY PCM and file inside of it. Just like every time you “load” a replacement stock OEM file over my FastFieros tuning file and start over… HAHAHAHAHA what a laugh… you do not have TIS and a tech2 I am sure. That in itself is a $3000-$5000 investment. I do however have all the support on TIS to 2006.


Loyde