and I am doing everything I can while I'm in the doors. I decided to just bite the bullet and pull both the inner and outer door panels from the start to make things easier overall (glad I did too... there was no way in hell my dew wipe screws were coming out by putting a screwdriver on the heads... ended up using vice grips on the ends of the screws to break them loose). So anyways first hitch was with the encapsulated torx screws holding the door skins on. The last one (why is it always the last one) on the front bottom down by the lower hinge decided to gall as I was taking it out. killed the plastic in short order.... okay shave the head and use the metal underneath.... which promptly rounded out ..... ended up drilling the head off.
Anyway everything is off. My big question is do you need to pull the entire regulator to swap out the window motor, or can the motor be replaced with the regulator still in the door? I know you have to block/clamp the window in the up position either way, just seems it would be easier if you could grind the rivets holding the motor to the regulator while its all still in the door, then just replace the motor. I still plan on cleaning and greasing everything, but I figure I can do all that through the door since I have access from both sides. Any and all input is welcome. Thanks
Rich
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12:18 PM
PFF
System Bot
fierohoho Member
Posts: 3494 From: Corner of No and Where Registered: Apr 2001
Thanks for the reply ... I agree they're riveted together ... but the new motor I have in my hand is obviously just the motor. Just trying to figure out since you have to detatch the motor from the regulator anyway if it can be done without removing the regulator from the door. Just seems like it might be easier to me.
Rich
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03:53 PM
308 Ferrari Kit Member
Posts: 85 From: Kingsport, TN USA Registered: Jan 2003
I have replaced a power window motor before without removing the regulator assembly from the door.
You have to drill out the rivets that hold the motor only. To drill them out, you first have to use a punch and knock out the steel center pin in the rivet, then drill them out. If you don't knock out the steel pin first, you'll have a heck of a time finding center or getting it to drill out with out making an out of round hole.
Install the new motor and use 1/4" bolts and lock nuts to hold it in.
If I remember correctly you need to roll the window up all the way to make it easier to get the motor out. If the window is stuck, drill out the rivets then loosen the motor and push the window up.
One important note, get a block of wood to fit inside the door to keep the window up all the way or part way up which ever you choose so the glass won't fall down when you get the motor gear away from the regulator.
Remember be careful and watch those fingers.
[This message has been edited by 308 Ferrari Kit (edited 10-14-2007).]
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08:14 PM
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
I'm needing to do this too...did you have to remove the door skins? or can it be done from the inside?
Sure it can be done just removing the inner door panel. Think about it, every other (almost) car in America doesn't have a removable outer door skin. But... since I am doing an entire refurb on my doors (dew wipes, window motors, pulling & cleaning and lubing the door latch mechanisms, maybe replacing the lock actuators) I decided I would just make things easier on myself and pull the inner panel and outer door skin. Worked out well that I did, as the screws holding the dew wipes on are so corroded and nasty they would never come off using a screwdriver. Ended up using a needle nose vice grips on the screw shafts to get them started backing out. Having both panels off, I can say it definitely makes everything a lot easier.
Rich
[This message has been edited by Richjk21 (edited 10-14-2007).]
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09:45 PM
Richjk21 Member
Posts: 2228 From: Central Square NY, USA Registered: Feb 2006
I have replaced a power window motor before without removing the regulator assembly from the door.
You have to drill out the rivets that hold the motor only. To drill them out, you first have to use a punch and knock out the steel center pin in the rivet, then drill them out. If you don't knock out the steel pin first, you'll have a heck of a time finding center or getting it to drill out with out making an out of round hole.
Thanks for the input ...... One thing though ... the rivets holding the motor to the regulator aren't the peel type pop rivets wit hthe steel center. They are just traditional rivets the heads are flat and the other end is just flared out ... like the rivets that hold the headlight motor case halves together. I figure I can just use my dremel and grind the heads off. Still not 100% Sure which way I'm gonna go yet..... the one advantage to pulling the regulators is I know I can probably do a better job of cleaning and lubing stuff (especially the rollers that go in the tracks), if I pull them out. Maybe I'll try one door one way, and 1 door the other.
Rich
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09:51 PM
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
I decided I would just make things easier on myself and pull the inner panel and outer door skin. Worked out well taht I did, sa the screws holding the dew wipes on are so corroded and nasty they would never come off using a screwdriver. Ended up using a needle nose vice grips on the screw shafts to get them started backing out. Having both panels off, I can say it definitely makes everything a lot easier.
Rich
Yeah I understand the better access with the outer skins removed. I guess what my real question is can the motors be removed without removing the regulators? I know the whole regulator can be removed from the inside as I installed power windows in a car that never had them, and I did it from the inside.
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09:53 PM
Richjk21 Member
Posts: 2228 From: Central Square NY, USA Registered: Feb 2006
Ahhh ... that's a little different ... don't think you would be able to do the motor without the regulator from just the inside.... some of those rivets holding the motor to the regulator I don't think you'd be able to get to.
Rich
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09:57 PM
Richjk21 Member
Posts: 2228 From: Central Square NY, USA Registered: Feb 2006
Okay .... just went out and looked at it, and I would have to say no. you could not do just the motor from the inside. Which is probably why everything written says pull the whole regulator, because it assumes the outer doorskin is still on. Some of the motor to regulator rivet locations are behind the solid part of the inner door, well away from the access holes, with only abou 1/2 to 3/4 of an incf of space between where the rivet is, and the solid part of the door.
Rich
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10:10 PM
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
Okay .... just went out and looked at it, and I would have to say no. you could not do just the motor from the inside. Which is probably why everything written says pull the whole regulator, because it assumes the outer doorskin is still on.
Rich
Okay, thanks, that's about what I thought. I agree the regulator can be removed without removing the door skin, but I also know it takes a lot of body english to get it out through that little hole without access through the door skin.
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10:49 PM
PFF
System Bot
Oct 15th, 2007
Richjk21 Member
Posts: 2228 From: Central Square NY, USA Registered: Feb 2006
Okay ... just a quick update.... I pretty much have everything out of the door. I decided to just go ahead and pull the whole regulator assy. the one thing that swayed my decision was I figured with the whole regulator out it would be easier to control everything with regard to the big honking spring, once the motor is removed from the rest of the regulator. the latch mechanism is removed & soaking in solvent to dissolve all the old crusty grease. And I finally got that blessed dew wipe off. the two barely accessible screws were all rusted & nasty to say the least. I spent a while trying to break the loose from the door skin side with the needle nose vice grips (this is what I had to do with the screws at the end as the Phillips hole in the heads were pretty much gone), but no joy. I was finally able to do it referencing this thread by jstricker
the heads on the two middle screws were in better shape than the outer ones. Next up I need to transfer all of the pads & mirror bracket from the old dew wipe onto the new insulation strip I got from Joe. And a bunch of cleaning and lubing of stuff to get ready to put back together. I'm taking my time on this one ... definitely not in any big rush.
also ... I'm working out all the kinks on the DS door ... I figure when I get to the passenger side I'll take a bunch of pictures and make one big door refurb reference thread.
Rich
[This message has been edited by Richjk21 (edited 10-15-2007).]