I am considering an engine swap for my car. My clutch may be going out and I would rather spend $1000 towards an engine swap than to pay for a new clutch. I would like to install a 3800 series II engine into it. I have some questions concerning the California smog laws.

1. Can I do it myself or does it have to be done by a shop?
2. How much of the 3800 stock parts do I have to use? I believe I have to have ECU, Cat, exhaust manifolds and all other smog equipment. Is there anything else I must have to get the smog ref to sign off on it?
3. Are there any writeups or web sites that I can get information on this? (yes, I searched and could not find any)

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85 Fiero GT with 1.6 rocker arms, aluminum flywheel, Sprint Headers, Thermotech Black Silk Exhaust coating, WCF clutch, SS brake lines, Rear anti-sway bar, KYB shocks, K&N air filter, removed water seperator.
Removed: complete A/C system, Cruise control, coil/alternator fan
92 Dodge Stealth RT TT with too many mods to list

I came across this post (below) a few years ago,hope it helps.I live in California and am doing a 3800 SC swap.Dont forget to have the computer reflashed by Loyde of Fast Fieros,to remove the BCB, and rev limiter,just tell him you have a smog check here in california.
This Information is for engine swappers,needing information on passing smog.
I originally ran into this situation several years ago when I was trying to smog a 1979 Porsche 924 with a 3.4 liter Camaro motor in it. California law says that the engine has to have all the smog equipment the motor came with. All the engine sensors and ECU, etc, that came with the Cadillac. That's a no-brainer. When I was doing my research, though, a question arose as to whether the evap canister is an engine component or a chassis component. ( Part of the gas tank. ) I concluded that the charcoal canister should be from the donor car, since the purge valve on top of the canister must be electrically compatible with the Cadillac ECU. Also, the sensor in the air cleaner ( if there is one ) has to be correct for the motor, not the Fiero.

As far as I can learn, the pressurized gas cap on the Fiero will pass smog, since the standards for gas caps are fairly universal. But if there are any differences in standards between the two cars the referee would be within the law to insist that you adhere to the Cadillac standards.

Most referees are on your side. If you show up with a car that shows that you've made a sincere effort to comply with the rules and that you're not trying to slip something past him, then he'll probably try to work with you. What'll help him is a professional-appearing installation; nothing flapping, drooping, or unconnected. Any rubber ducting, for instance, shouldn't appear overstretched or overextended. Your vehicle should be in a condition that would inspire confidence. And for Gawdssake NO DUCT TAPE!!!

Be nice. Smile. Dress neatly & conservatively. Volunteer nothing. Smile. IF HE ASKS you about components that aren't original to the Fiero, be able to tell him where they came from & why they're here. Smile. If the ref hates you, then he can insist that you use the same catalytic convertor configuration as the donor car. ( Single vs dual cats. ) If the ref REALLY hates you he can insist that the catalytic convertor be no farther away from the engine ( measured along the length of the exhaust pipe ) than on the donor car.
1. Go back to the smog shop and ask then to see the Mitchells manual for that year engine. Write down all of the items considered to be part of the emissions system (evap, cat, egr, PCV, etc.) Make sure those items are there and working. That is the list they will check off.

If there are any other vent hoses to the intake hose, make sure they are there. They might try and get you to install the stock 4.9L air box. Do it if you have to but the Fiero air filter can seems to get through without any hassles.

You can usually find a Mitchells manual in your local library.

2. Make sure the VSS is work. If you are driving the speedo from the ECM then you should be fine but they will scan the ECM to make sure the ECM speed is reasonable right (under 10% error).

3. Find a California car with the 4.9L and get the VIN. You can use this to show the engine came from a Califorina car. We can't install engines from other states. They may very well run the VIN and confirm it has option YF5 (California emissions). Is your engine from that specific car? Probably not (unless you got it from the donor car) but they don't seem to care. It's not like they are going to check the junkyards to make sure the VIN is still there rusting away. Just have a California VIN you can give them. Whatever you do don't say the engine came from any state other than California. As BAR once told me "don't make me lie".

4. No attitude. You will likely go to a local JC for the recert. As said above if you go in with the attitude that you are looking to them to *help* you make sure it's correct, you might fail the first time, but they will just tell you to go fix this or that and come back. It's perfectly ok to be excited about getting it recertified. Be positive. The refs are generally pretty cool people and enjoy seeing what we car nuts bring to them.

On the other hand, offer no information unless specifically asked. None. Squat. Keep your mouth shut. You most likley won't be allowed to watch the inspection so just go sit and wait. It might take 60-90 minutes while you bite your nails.

5. Don't "make" any parts like using dryer duct for the intake hose. Go to your Pick and Pull and find GM parts that will work. It makes it look like they came with the engine.

6. Make sure the SES/CE light is working.

Odds are you will pass. If they fail you the first time, don't panic. Get the info and go fix it. If you hit a roadblock (like they don't like that you fabricated a crossover pipe for the exhaust (which they can but BAR has clearly stated they don't really care), tell the ref you will contact BAR for some information because "that's not what you understood". Don't say the ref is a dork/jerk/moron, just appear surprised and you will go work on it.
Heres the list for those who live in CALEEfornia: My first step was to go to the CHP for engine check (no stolen parts or something). Its okayed and I'm on my way to DMV. Each step represents appointment, time off from work, and various headaches, and during the two years starting with the Las Vegas fest-to-Car Excess experience.

1. Tail pipe emisson test. Passed. Failed due to (2) cat pipes. Changed to one cat tail pipe. Done.
2. Caddie's evaporator system. Done.
3. Caddy dash hooked up. Done.
4. Remove old stock dash and hook up Caddy dash. Done.
5. Recieve SB100 paper. Done
6. Permently mount Caddy dash in car. Done.(probubley nothing to do with the smog).
7. Change the make of car to SPcn something. Done
8. Tail pipe emission test. Done stickers on door, and I passed.

[This message has been edited by James Bond 007 (edited 09-28-2007).]

Excellent writeup! I printed it out. Thank you for reposting that.

Doug, PM me your phone number, I live in Elk Grove and have been down this road already!! I HAD a 3800 sc w/ man trans I was going to use. The factory didn't come with manual trans so you can't use one either. If you want an auto you are home free, contact WCF they can set you up to where it's a regular engine swap as long as you have all the emissions on the motor.

Let's talk and I will show you what my plan is.


RUNDLC

Is Arizona this tough on getting past inspections on a 3800 sc swap?

Here are the calif. BAR guidelines for engine replacement and rebuilding:

http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov...delines-Jan_1994.htm

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 09-28-2007).]