The car is an '88 GT w/ a 5 speed, and dust for paint; well it is sort of red/pink and dust like. I'm in the process of replacing the water pump, because I know it was shot.

• Do I need to drain the gas? If so how do I drain the tank?
  
• Around the distributor there appears to be a pretty good oil leak. Any ideas?
  
• I don't know what this module is and there is a loose vacuum hose. What is it for? (click for larger size)
  
• What else
  

Yes, drain the fuel & change the oil for starters.

when first starting it i would forget about the oil leak, and that hose is for the EGR sensor, for startup its useless, what that will do is make the check engine light come on when driving, easy fix but not a primary thing to worry about. get a timing light and make sure you know how to disable the advance by bridging the Aand B terminals. change the oil, and dump the gas, buy a can of Sea Foam and get 5 gallons of new fuel in it. check the wiring make sure no mice/rats have eaten anything the brakes may not be very good either so do not take it out and jump on it, or you may find yourself without brakes

One way to drain the fuel is disconnect the filter (replace it too) and run the fuel pump through the aldl connector hooked to 12v.


The distributor has an o-ring that can leak. It could also be coming from the bottom of the lower intake manifold but that is much more difficult to fix. With the dist you mark it's position relative to the engine and also mark the rotor relative to the dist itself. Remove the 15mm bolt on the hold down thingie. Pop the dist out and replace o-ring. Replace dist so that your marks line up. Do not turn the engine while the dist is out.

The picture is of the EGR solenoid. Here is a write-up with the diagrams and pics.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/045528.html

I would also give the cyl. a squirt of oil. They can rust a bit setting for several years without turning over.
If you have cranked it already never mind.

Replace the fuel filter after you pump the tank dry.

Flush and replace the coolant once you have it running.

quote Originally posted by Primaris: The car is an '88 GT w/ a 5 speed, and dust for paint; well it is sort of red/pink and dust like. I'm in the process of replacing the water pump, because I know it was shot. Do I need to drain the gas? If so how do I drain the tank? Around the distributor there appears to be a pretty good oil leak. Any ideas? I don't know what this module is and there is a loose vacuum hose. What is it for? (click for larger size) What else

How much gas in in the tank?
If it's full, you might be able to add some sta-bil to it, or add some ethanol (gas dryer) to absorb any condensation that may have formed. Ten gallons is a lot of gas to dispose of.
If it's near empty, you can jumper the pins on the ALDL connector (in the console, behind the black trim plate, next to the lighter) to turn on the fuel pump. If you jumper 12 volts to pin G of the ALDL connector, the fuel pump will run (if it and the wiring are good.) Be careful not to run the tank dry and let the fuel pump keep running. It'll overheat in a hurry without gas flowing through to cool it.

The oil around the distributor is probably caused by a leaking distributor O-ring. If it was leaking at all before, it's almost guaranteed to look like Niagra Falls, after sitting for 5 years.

The module is the EGR solenoid and diagnostic switch. The little L-shaped hose is teed off of the line to the EGR valve. It supplies a vacuum to the diagnostic portion of the assembly (the little square box.) If the EGR is not working (or the diagnostics THINK it's not working) it'll turn on the check engine light and set a "Code 32". This usually happens at a steady highway speed.

Edit - Damn. Everybody beat me to it.
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Raydar

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 09-25-2007).]

It depends, do you want the engine to last a long time and start up without much damage? Or to heck with damage let's get this running?

If you care about the engine,

First thing to do is prime the engine. if you start it after 5 years of sitting ALL bearings are bone dry and you will damage them by starting it.

Second thing, anything in the gas tank is garbage. Drop it clean it all out, clean out your fuel lines by disconnecting them and running seafoam through them with the fuel pump and a new fuel filter. While you have the tank down replace the fuel pump and filter sock.

Change the oil right now, in fact I recommend dropping the pan and wiping it out, there has to be water in there by now. clean out everything around the engine, you really dont want something to burn when you get it running. unplug and replug every connector you can find in the engine bay, in fact add a bit of dieletric grease after you unplug and replug a couple of times to protect them. look for, remove clean and re attach every ground strap, if any are missing replace them.

remove and replace all belts. while the belts are off, make sure all accessories turn and are not seized up. Might be a good idea to replace the hoses and flush and fill the coolant as well.

That's just for starters.

Oh and be ready to enjoy a puff of smoke upon startup every time. valve seals sitting dry for a long time get hard and will let oil seep in causing the smoke puff on warm starts.

[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 09-25-2007).]

Hmmm.... I remember when I got an 87 GT running that had been sitting for three years behind a body shop. The tires were so bad they had turned to charcoal.

First off....drop the fuel tank and make sure the tank is clean. While you're inside the tank, ( after you've soaked up all the residual gas with rags or sponges and cleaned and dried the inside out ) apply twelve volts to the the pump and see if you get noise.- remember, don't do it if you still have fuel in the tank...if you don't know how, there are threads here that can help.

BTW, there is an 87 coupe at a pull-apart near here. Don't know how long it's going to be there, and it's nearly all gone but it still has a fuel tank. Thought I would mention that just in case.

2. The coffee can style air cleaner assembly tends to collect water if sitting. Clean it out and get a new filter.
3. I would give it a complete tune up including a new module. If your distributor is badly corroded, the module has probably been shorting through the mounting screws, you might need a new distributor.
4. Replace all the spark plugs ( and if needed, wires )
5. Take your throttle body off and clean with good carb cleaner. While it's off, check your EGR tubes, they are probably blocked. Replace or clean out.
6. NEW: hoses, coolant, oil, battery and filters. Check all fluids filters and connections. Nut and bolt it ( put a wrench on every nut - you will be surprised at what's loose and you will prob find some frozen solid- keep a list )
7. Check your brakes, brake lines and tires.
Once it's all put back together, you're ready to start troubleshooting.

Here's a Fuel Pump and tank removal guide if you need one:

http://fierodomain.com/content/view/111/100/

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Ok I won't worry about the EGR thing-a-ma-bob. Actually if I remember right the check engine light was coming on only on the highway.

I figured I'd have to get the old gas out, I guess I was just hoping for something I didn't know about. What the hell am I going to do with all that old gas?
I tried searching for a thread about dropping the fuel tank but didn't find one with a good description. I am working in a parking lot, so this work has to be done without a lift. So if any of you folks have a link handy I'd appreciate it. edit: posted while I was typing

Where do you disconnect the fuel lines to use the fuel pump to empty the tank?

Thanks

[This message has been edited by Primaris (edited 09-25-2007).]

At the filter. You really should replace it too. Use PB Blaster to loosen the rust. Flare wrenches help to not strip the fittings.
Photos courtesy of Dodgerunner:

Excelent. Are the tank straps and hardware available at Autozone, Advanced Auto etc?

I don't believe so. If yours are fubar you could find some in the Mall from a parts car. Or the Fiero Factory or Kick Hill junkyards. Or make them yourself.

every post is correct, I have gotten many cars running over the past 50 years use to sell them(great way to loose money)dropping the tank is best way,but not neccessary pump gas out ,better to pump out with separate pump easy to damage pump if dry take filter off after pump and dump crap out also to see what amount of debris is there..it is a real bear to clean a tank properly,, if pump works do not remove tank ,I will gar ran tee it will fail soon.. use clean soda bottle,remove paper label.. run gas into soda bottle( gas will not destroy) prop bottle in position at fuel filter inlet,3 bottle better check fuel content and determine if pull is desired at this time, do not replace fuel filter untill crap has run thru tank,, there will be possibly a hard varnish at bottom of tank,,if you use car pump do not remove all fuel, use judgement your eyeball ,trust this judgement.. I run old gas mixed in lawn mower(skinflint)check new gas with soda bottle ,the T bolts that hold the tank soak them with pb blaster even if you do not remove.(TIP.put hose on threads run up close to bolt to hold lube))in a few days turn to loosen, retighten, .DO NOT REMOVE any upper metal lines unless absolutely must do,to maintain fit.. the cylinders must be lubed,turn engine over to make sure ok.. proper oil distribution with out disasemble engine impossible. leave plugs in engine, disconect spark to old plugs turn engine over to move oil into engine parts.. once oil is in system remove plugs and turn over fast listen for noise,if noise decrease?? noise increase??use old plugs untill ready to drive.. the only proper way is to take engine apart after 5 years ,this sucks, remove oil pan excellent idea, the crap supended in the oil has fallen to the pan.. "many here will disagree" why was car put down for 5 years? engine problem ?? how much work do you want to do?? remove tank ,remove, diasemble engine will really welcome you to fiero community.. use what works for you ,, my lady wants to see the world,I got her a map

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 09-26-2007).]

It was parked because of a coolant leak, and I needed a hatchback for work. I've got a friend helping me and because of this friend is pretty much the only reason the car is being worked on. Working on the car out in the parking lot sucks so bad it hard to describe. For instance if you need to run and get something from the store, you have to pack all the tools back away, lock up the car, put the tires back on, etc.

i know that feeling lol...i hated putting back up the tools, and you never have a good sorce to wash your hands, so everything in and out of the car is now covered with 20+ year old oil and greese....about the leak around the distributor, the shaft has an O ring on it, they leak when old, and they leak bad! kinda like unplugging your oil sender. so get that fixed, the O ring is about the size of a condom ring (mabey a dab smaller) and cost all of 0.50$, and i would defently run seafoam through it once its running, im sure thoes injectors are long clogged...hell it may not even start due to that.

If you pull the tank, make sure your fuel gauge sending unit is working before you put it back in the car. Royal pain in the behinds to have to drop it a second time to repair the sending unit. And you will want the fuel gage to work.

quote Originally posted by timgray: Second thing, anything in the gas tank is garbage. Drop it clean it all out, clean out your fuel lines by disconnecting them and running seafoam through them with the fuel pump and a new fuel filter. While you have the tank down replace the fuel pump and filter sock.

Great Advise...especially the part about the gas. I can't emphasize enough that you have to drop the dank and drain the gas. If you run that skanky gas though the fuel pump you will ruin it, and it should be replaced anyway.

Dropping the tank isn't that big a deal, I can do it in a couple of hours with jack stands. I've done it the way Fiero domain shows with ramps and jackstands getting it way up in the air, but I also did it a simpler way by jacking it up from the side. I removed a tank in the middle of a storm while lying in fireants and it only took me about 30 minutes.

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 09-26-2007).]

That's pretty neat but I don't have ramps or a way to get the car that high in the air.

I'm trying to figure out how to use the ALDL to trigger the fuel pump. The pump is working for two sec when turning the key to on, and I have the fuel filter off. I tried to jump the fuel pump to ground and the fuse blew.

So with a wire in the fuel pump pin on the ALDL where do I put the other end?

Thanks

You need to connect it to power, such as the Orange wire on the cigarette lighter.

Which wire were you jumping when the fuse blew?

And, you need to get the car into the air somehow to drop the tank. Ramps aren't necessary, but jackstands are.

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[This message has been edited by Xanth (edited 09-26-2007).]

Thank you. To the ground pin.

In the picture I posted above the pin marked "Fuel Pump terminal" is connected to a 12v source like the cigarette lighter power wire (orange as Xanth said).

jscott1: I bet you did change that in 30 minutes lying in fire ants! You are a braver man than me. Those little SOB's are mean.

quote Originally posted by Primaris: The car is an '88 GT w/ a 5 speed, and dust for paint; well it is sort of red/pink and dust like. I'm in the process of replacing the water pump, because I know it was shot. Do I need to drain the gas? If so how do I drain the tank? Around the distributor there appears to be a pretty good oil leak. Any ideas? I don't know what this module is and there is a loose vacuum hose. What is it for? (click for larger size) What else

no, you wont need to drain the fuel, just ad about the same amount of new fuel to it, and maybe an additive from the store for old fuel..

Well my bud and I installed a new water pump, new battery, drained the fuel, ran a gallon fresh through, and added 5 more to the tank then we cranked her over a bunch without the ECU & fuel pump fuses in (did some other miscellaneous stuff too).

It cranked a bit and wanted to start right away. Cranked some more and it sputtered coughed and ran. I had to give it some gas for a bit till it relearned the idle and it was missing lightly. So we took it for a short maiden voyage trying to give the brakes some exercise. After a few laps around the block the miss is gone and it seems to be running great.



The car isn't ready to be street driven. The tires are a bit square, the shocks are well nonexistent, once you turn the steering wheel more than one quarter from center it feels like you were teleported into the cab of a cement truck, and the brakes will eventually maybe stop the car.

The brakes almost feel like there is no boost being created. It takes a lot of leg to get the car slowed down from moderate (40mph) speed. How can I diagnose if the booster is functioning properly?

Thanks ! ! !

Congrats on getting her fired up. You can pull the plastic fitting from the booster to see if you hear the "whoosh" of air rushing in. That fitting is the one-way valve. When running and the fitting out, you should feel vacuum if you have your finger over the fitting. A leak would cause a high idle so if it idles well then the one way valve maybe bad. Of course it could be just really bad brakes......

my money is on the rear calipers...

quote Originally posted by 88 Silver Formula: my money is on the rear calipers...

Even with a working e-brake?

quote Originally posted by Primaris: What the hell am I going to do with all that old gas?

simple cut half and half w/ new gas and put it into your lawn mower
i had to do that with about thirty gallons from an old suburban
and my riding mower dosent care
( no debris or any thing of course)

congrats on the fix up

Check brake fluid if black remove.. use rag to soak up install new fluid good idea to run old fluid thru system,, brakes are rusty caliper pucks sticky,check booster hose for leakpoor brakes with rursty rotors and crap in pads, filthy fluid,, possible water and sticking or leaking booster check hoses to make sure they are not swelling when brakes pushed

What type bulbs light up the word "Pontiac" on the GT?
Thanks

quote Originally posted by uhlanstan: Check brake fluid if black remove.. use rag to soak up install new fluid good idea to run old fluid thru system,, brakes are rusty caliper pucks sticky,check booster hose for leakpoor brakes with rursty rotors and crap in pads, filthy fluid,, possible water and sticking or leaking booster check hoses to make sure they are not swelling when brakes pushed

I would not even bother checking it. I'd flush and replace all the brake and clutch fluid with new.

WOW !!congratulations,,Your worried about light bulbs now,real progress.. definitely force all fluid out of EACH brake line..if tires not to weathered they may round out,when you park make sure flat spots do not contact ground,if you plan to run these tires..make sure you have spare and jack,I like fiero jack but it sucks unless seldom used,older nissan cars have perfect sissor jack for fiero has center brace with slot that fits fiero ..some mazda 626 have light small jack that works for fiero(same frame lift) use present filter for at least 10 gallons then check,tap inlet on wood block to see how big and what type of trash comes out,then run a tank or two and recheck,, never let a gas tank on an old car get below 2 gallons if it has been sitting for years!! there is trash you can not see.. when pump fails,clean tank replace harden hoses at top..if car runs well do not tune up wait to see what may pop up save money for parts that are absolutely needed, you lucked out ,excellent! first make sure runs ok and repair as you go,brakes are more important than engine,spent money here first ..try e brake for stop from 10 mph if works properly this will help diagnose ,, if brake repair novice ,jack car up, push brake and try to turn tire by hand,watch movement of pad.. in brakes half doing can be your undoing

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 09-28-2007).]

Worried about light bulbs no. :P I am trying to find out what type of bulbs they are without pullinig the entire rear light assembly so I can add them to the work list.

[This message has been edited by Primaris (edited 09-28-2007).]

I also am clueless

Could you describe what you mean by the check valves?

Something on the caliper itself?

I have an 88 as well but have no check valves on the calipers or on the lines leading to them. FieroStore.com does sell a rebuild kit for the 88 style brake calipers, I rebuilt my own with their kit.

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[This message has been edited by Xanth (edited 09-28-2007).]

On the rear, the pistons have a small rubber (or silicone) check valve in the face of the piston. I need #14:
click for larger

As far as I know they are only avalable in the rebuild kits. Doubt you will find them seperate.

Xanth, the two way valve is in the center of the piston face.

Here is some info.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/079068.html

Ahhhhh, I do believe that part comes in the rebuild kit.

www.FieroStore.com Part # 56052

If you look at the picture, I believe it shows that plug.

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The new ones in the kits are very soft and flexable. Some of the ones I have replaced are hard as a rock and the cap has broke off.