I have searched high and low for a write up on replacing a water pump. One with diagrams and pics. I have searched and found a few that have no pics or diagrams and very little info. I also need to knwo if an 86 Duke has a belt tensioner or is there something else? I hav eonly worked on serpentine belt configirations before my Fiero. This has v belts. Any help would be appreciated. I'm planing on replacing my water pump thi scoming Saturday. Good thing I have a nice air conditioned warehouse at work to do the replacment in. It gets darn hot in Oklahoma. Thanks in advance you guys are the best. My FIero woul dnot be running at all if I didn't have access to this forum and all of the knowledgable people.

i havent had to replace mine yet but the tension is achived by tightening or loosening the altanator.
sorry i couldnt help more good luck. ps everyone on here says to get the replacment pump with the
metal impeller.

Replacing Fiero water pumps can be challenging. Remove the battery to free up some room, remove the water hoses, belt and then the five or six bolts that hold the pump to the block. You will need a pulley removing tool to get the pulley off of the water pump shaft. It's beneficial to put down a plastic sheet over the fiberglas engine compartment insulation or you can get real itchy doing this install. Allow 2-4 hours for the job and pray that you don't break a bolt!!!

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87GT 3.4 Turbo- 0-60 5.2 seconds
2006 3800SC Series III swap in progress
Engine Controls, PCM goodies,
re-programming & odd electronics stuff
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

any photos of the bolts in question?

Kurt's version of 84-86 2.5 water pump replacement, as performed in parking lot during autocross day.
0) First thing to do is buy a nice 13mm offset box end wrench.
1) Next is to pull out the passenger side inner wheel-well rubber and plastic pieces by popping the heads up out of all the plastic rivets and removing them, along with some 7mm screws.
2) Then, stick a regular old 13 mm wrench down on the top bolt for the alternator and loosen the bolt, and rock the alternator forward.
3) Remove belt.
4) Using, whatever combination of sockets, wrenches, (and the 13mm offset box end wrench especially for the bolts you'll be getting from the bottom) remove the 6 bolts from the water pump. Don't worry about the heads breaking off too much if you experience it. If it happens, the whole body that the water pump bolts to can be removed with 4 bigger bolts.

---Hopefully at this point, you are now holding a water pump in your hands.---

Go to Autozone and rent their spiffy power steering pump pulley puller, it uses collars instead of jaws. This puller has multiple functions. First you use it to pull the pulley, then you use the long threaded rod to put the pulley back on. You grab the correct one that threads down into the center of the pump shaft. Then you put the thrust bearing from the kit a good ways up the shaft and thread the shaft down into the pump as far as it will go. With a friend to help you hold everything, use the puller as a "pusher" to press the pump pulley back down all the way till its flush with the end of the shaft If you can't figure this out, just take it to your old buddy from HS who works at a GM dealer, and he'll do it for you for 10 bucks.

---Now that you've got a complete water pump assembly, time to do some smart stuff.----

5) Chase the bolt threads and hole threads and apply antiseize to bolt threads.
6) Use blue "thermostat gasket" RTV to stick the gasket to the pump, with all the bolt holes lined up so its easier to hold everything in place. This RTV is avail in little pouches at AZ.

---Everything is ready to go now? Good.---

7) Reinstall the pump bolts, the don't need to see any more than probably about 8-10 lb feet.
loop the belt around the way it was.
8) Stick a tire iron (or similar) down in the top of the alternator bracket, and gently pry the alternator out, until you get sufficient tension on the belt.
9) Refill cooling system like in Ogre's Cave or Archism or OREIF or whoever sez.

10) Enjoy!

Good Luck!
Kurt

[This message has been edited by KurtAKX (edited 07-16-2007).]

This is for an 88 but you get the idea

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...040223-2-039015.html

Curlrup,
Do you have AC?
It's a few steps longer if you do. Some of the WP bolts are hidden by the Compressor mount.
My advise is to do a search on 2.5 water pumps. Read them all, some threads seem to be semi-worthless but usualy each may have a hidden little gem of an Idea.
Nobody will say this is easy, unless they haven't done a waterpump replacement themself.
First things first:
Drain the coolant, I pulled the plugs in the coolant tubes. They are just aft of the doors, 1 on each side. These plugs are Stainless Steel, if a previous owner has removed these plugs and reinstalled them without teflon tape or neverseize, you may be screwed. The usual recourse is to drill these out and re-tap the hole. Use only SS plugs, anything else will cause you problems some time in the future with corrosion/dissolving.
Next things, top end work:

edited: jscott1's thread covers most of what I was going to post.
I will add some points.
I didn't remove the battery tray, and I had just enough room to get everything done.
Some of the bolts go through to the water jacket, put RTV on the threads and heads to avoid leaks.
Use a torque wrench and tighten bolts to spec. My duke holds presure but sucks a little air when the engine cools off.
It's something I'm aware of and I'll revisit these bolts when install polly bushings, some time or another.
------------------
Ol' Paint, 88 Base coupe auto.
Turning white on top, like owner.
Leaks a little, like owner.
Doesn't smoke, unlike owner

[This message has been edited by DtheC (edited 07-16-2007).]

OK cool got it. Yep I do have A/C, it doesn't work at all but it's there. I searched again looking for photos of like the A/C bracket covering water pump bolts and stuff like that. I just like to see what I need to get at before I get at it.
So to remove that wheel well you just pop some plastic rivets? I won't have to replace those rivets after they are popped do I? Well she is sitting for a week while I do some fishing for work. I know my job sucks I get paid to fish. What do you do when there are stripper bass that need to be caught and you have gear to field test?

If you want, you can leave the A/C compressor off the engine. You can just buy a belt for a non-A/C 4 cyl fiero (87-88).
I did this on my 88 coupe. That way I didn't have to mess with putting on the A/C again or the brackets. The job is really not that tough, just take your time, look for all the bolts.

J.

quote Originally posted by jaskispyder: If you want, you can leave the A/C compressor off the engine. You can just buy a belt for a non-A/C 4 cyl fiero (87-88). J.

I believe on the 86 duke you still have the separate ac belt so you can just leave that belt off if you like.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: I believe on the 86 duke you still have the separate ac belt so you can just leave that belt off if you like.

You are correct being able to leave off the belt. I completely forgot about the AC components when I wrote my write-up since my car is not AC equipped (I like stripper cars).

DONE!!!! 4 hours, and I never had to move the A/C bracket......it just wasn't in the way. I just had to remove the battery. The bolt behind the pully on the left side(if facing the pump from the passenger side)was the toughest but not bad. I didn't even remove the pulley. I bought a new one with the puly on. I didn't even move the altenator. I did pull the wheel and wheel well. That helped tremndously. Burbed the system and drove it the 15 miles home no leaks no overheating.
The old pump was dripping from the bottom weep hole and the bottom of the non-existant gasket. It must have been changed before because they only used silicone not cork gasket at all. Thanks for your help and pointers I knew exactly what to do and where to do it. You guys are great.

Curly

One thing I would recommend is if you have to replace tour battery mount, make it removable and if you have to replace a water pump it it is a piece of cake. One of the few times I listened to the voices in my head and made my tray removable, 2 months later my 84' s water pump went bad , so that worked out great. If only they were right more often!!!!

quote Originally posted by johnt671: One thing I would recommend is if you have to replace tour battery mount, make it removable and if you have to replace a water pump it it is a piece of cake. One of the few times I listened to the voices in my head and made my tray removable, 2 months later my 84' s water pump went bad , so that worked out great. If only they were right more often!!!!

True, I have installed two, and I used sheet metal screws that I can remove the tray in a few minutes if I have to.

Here's the diagram that's missing from my post in the archived thread cited by jscott1.