I have about 100 miles on my new ZZ4 swap. I got most bugs worked out except for the starter. It seemed to start fine the first 10 times, but now after 25 starts the problem seems more permanent is too unreliable to drive anywhere. I can only push start it.

I turn the key and the starter just makes one load click. I get 12.4 volts at the starter. Volts dip maybe .5 to 1 volt as it tries to engage.

It is a Powermaster 9000 that I got in Archie's kit. The engine has 10:1 compression. I have grounds from the engine to chassis and from the starter to the chassis. I ground the battery to the firewall on one of the brake powerbooster bolts. I do not have a direct ground wire from the battery to the engine., but my 2.8 worked fine this way. I had the battery checked and has 780 cca. It won't start with a jumpstart either. I rock the car back in forth while in gear and this doesn't seem to help either.

It seem this problem has happened to a few people before, but never with a common outcome. Some had poor connections, bad grounds. Others said the powermaster 9000 won't work on high compression. Do I need to test this Powermaster out some more, add another ground, or will I have to get a $300 CSR-100 starter?

Sounds like you aren't getting enough amps to your solenoid. Maybe the wire is too small or has a lot of resistance. I had a Mercedes SL500 that other shops couldn't figure out with the same issue. 12v to the solenoid, but no crank. I applied 12v from the battery via power probe to the solenoid and it would start right up. The ignition switch was dropping the amps. Even though I had proper voltage, amperage must be there too. OHMs law.
Dave

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1999 Mercedes ML430, 450hp 1987 Fiero GT, 1986 Fiero SE-soon to be 3800, certified master technician
www.njautobahn.com

I thought of that, but wasn't sure if the switched power wire was important since the battery cable is hooked up directly to the solenoid. I had my wife try to start the car and I think I only had about 9 volts on the switch wire. I have noticed that other wires in the Fiero harness, such as the cruise control, seem to have much lower volt readings than the battery.

My next idea was to bypass the ignition and wire using a 12 gauge wire/start button directly from the battery to the solenoid.

My starter did the "click" job about 2 months after I got it. It went away and the starter died a year later. I now have the $300 CSR deal. That Powermaster did NOT impress me.

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Christian Thomas
87 Pontiac Fiero GT Burgandy/Silver 5.7L ZZ4 5spd
301rwhp/345rwtq

Next Mod: 88 suspension, C6 polished wheels, ??? brakes, Konis, poly'd ...AKA NEW CAR!
06 Cobalt SS/SC w/ LSD

Just a thought,, If the starter has shifted it my jam ,,,,, get underneath and check to make sure the spacing of the starter is still correct. I felt unsure that the starter mounting block would stay in place when I was putting my kit together, so when my starter was spaced correctly to the flywheel, I drilled and installed roll-pins to keep the starter in place..(through the mounting block to the adapter plate)


Just a thought

Hooter

[This message has been edited by hooter (edited 07-15-2007).]

bmwguru is where I would start, I know that on Heavy duty applications that not enough power to a solenoid causes alot of problems including welding the contacts in the solenoid together.
I believe that you could buy an inexpensive ford style solenoid and use the power right off your main starter power lead to create the circuit you are looking for. This is once you determine there is no damage to the starter already.

Good luck ..... Marty

I replaced the Powermaster 9000 with a Hitachi PE 106, cost was 189.00. It seems to be alot more dependable.
My powermaster only made it a few months.
Good Luck
Gary

quote Originally posted by MartyK: bmwguru is where I would start, I know that on Heavy duty applications that not enough power to a solenoid causes alot of problems including welding the contacts in the solenoid together. I believe that you could buy an inexpensive ford style solenoid and use the power right off your main starter power lead to create the circuit you are looking for.

I think bmwguru and MartyK were right. I first tried a new wire from the battery to the starter with a push button switch and it worked fine. I have now wired in a Ford solenoid (up front next the battery for easy access). Works great now. ( I hope this was the only problem). I had put a Ford solenoid on an old jeep I had years ago, but had forgotten about that little trick.