I'm quoting Jazzman here from this thread. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...060811-2-069395.html His pics don't show up any more I had the top half of my engine off to replace valve covers and injectors and I may not have put the distributer back with the rotor pointing where it was when I removed it. I'm trying to get TDC. Thanks, Marc
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01:33 PM
PFF
System Bot
fieroluv Member
Posts: 1951 From: Ft Wayne, IN USA Registered: Jul 2002
It's a 17mm on my 3.4, and it's the same bolt from my old 2.8 Be careful trying to go CCW with it. The bolt can start to back out unless it's in really tight.
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04:13 PM
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
Originally posted by randye: It's a 17mm on my 3.4, and it's the same bolt from my old 2.8 Be careful trying to go CCW with it. The bolt can start to back out unless it's in really tight.
I was turning it clockwise. I hope that was okay? I didn't think the bolt could back out in that direction. Anyway I believe I found TDC. I just want to make sure my rotor looks like it's pointing in the right direction. I got it towards #1 as much as possible. I know fine tuning with a timing light will need to be done afterwards. Take a look. Thanks!
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04:22 PM
buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13620 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
yep, that about where number 1 normally sits at. you do know you could be at TDC with #1 exhausting and the #4 cylinder being on the compression stroke.
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04:56 PM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Originally posted by buddycraigg: yep, that about where number 1 normally sits at. you do know you could be at TDC with #1 exhausting and the #4 cylinder being on the compression stroke.
I used the stick method by removing all the plugs and stopped turning when the stick was extended the furthest coming out of #1. Could I still be off? I'm not going to turn the key until I hear otherwise! Thanks buddy.
I used the stick method by removing all the plugs and stopped turning when the stick was extended the furthest coming out of #1. Could I still be off? I'm not going to turn the key until I hear otherwise! Thanks buddy.
Check to see if your timing mark is near the scale on the timing cover. If it's somewhere near there, your chances of being 180 degress out, (on exhaust stroke), are slim. Having a helper that can stick their finger in the sparkplug hole and feel when it's on compression stroke is mighty handy I have the wife trying to help me right now and she doesn't want to get her fingernails messed up...*sigh*
[This message has been edited by randye (edited 07-13-2007).]
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06:29 PM
buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13620 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
Originally posted by randye:If it's somewhere near there, your chances of being 180 degress out, (on exhaust stroke), are slim.
he's chances are 50%.
if it doesn't start when you try it, you can do 2 things. easy, but kinda getto. put the #1 spark plug wire where #4 is now and continue around the cap with a "new" firing order or pull the distributor turn the engine over one full turn and put the distributor back in a little more time consuming, but it's the correct way to fix it.
but then again you have a 50% chance that you put it in right.
[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 07-13-2007).]
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06:51 PM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Originally posted by randye: Check to see if your timing mark is near the scale on the timing cover. If it's somewhere near there, your chances of being 180 degress out, (on exhaust stroke), are slim.
I thought one can only check timing marks while the engine is running with a/b pins connected?
quote
Originally posted by buddycraigg: if it doesn't start when you try it, you can do 2 things.
So if I'm that far off it won't even start? I guess I'll know for sure then if I'm on TDC!
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 07-13-2007).]
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07:11 PM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Figures my luck this week.....with a %50 chance....I'm wrong Wouldn't crank over. So I'd like to do it the right way. No ghetto's! After removing the distributer do I point the rotor back at #1 or do I face the rotor where it's facing now which is #6 because I cranked it? Also, when I crank it to get to TDC do I crank it quick or does it not matter as long as I do it once?
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 07-13-2007).]
The easy way if you think you got it right the first time, just on the wrong side of the 50%, the rotor needs to turn 180 deg. from where it is when you remove it. Pull it out, spin half way around, and insert.
The correct way to do it is find TDC on #1 before replacing the distributor. You can stick your thumb over the spark plug hole and have someone turn the crank pulley bolt by hand. When you feel pressure building in the cylinder you are on the compression stroke. You can now use your stick method to get the piston to the top.
It's not hard. Timing marks are used for both timing and setting the engine at TDC. Line up the timing mark on the main pulley to 0 on the timing cover. Pull the #1 spark plug to see if the piston is on top (using your stick). If not, rotate the main pulley around once more to 0. Finally install the distibutor to have the rotor point at #1, but dont tighten the locking bolt. You will want to start to drop the distributor a little more CCW than you want, as it drops and engages in the gears it will turn CW. Start her up, install a pin in A+B in ALDL and use your timing gun to set the advance timing. Then lock it down.
Don't worry if your mechanical timing (timing chain) is good there is no damage that you can do by starting the car when the electrical timing is out of whack.
It's not hard. Timing marks are used for both timing and setting the engine at TDC. Line up the timing mark on the main pulley to 0 on the timing cover. Pull the #1 spark plug to see if the piston is on top (using your stick). If not, rotate the main pulley around once more to 0.....
I don't think just looking at the timing mark will work. If it is out 180deg then it is also at the top of its stroke. You have to make sure you are on the compression stroke. You are really looking for both valves to be closed, not just the piston at TDC.
Figures my luck this week.....with a %50 chance....I'm wrong Wouldn't crank over.
"wouldn't crank over"? when you turn the key to the start position and the engine spins. that is called cranking over. if it wouldn't do that, then you have a lot more problems.
if it wouldn't FIRE, as in the engine spins but doesn't try to start then you just have the distributor stuck at the wrong place.
(assuming that you still have a fiero HMB and the outer ring has not spun) there are three slits in the HMB, two small and one big. line the big one up with the 0 mark on the timing tab. now both #1 and #4 are at TDC. you have a 50/50 chance as to which one is on the compressing stroke and which one is on the exhaust stroke.
like others have said, if you have someone to help you, have them put their finger over the spark plug hole of number one. turn the engine over clockwise. when their finger is pushed off of the hole, you are on the compression stroke. i almost never have a helper so i have a tool that screws into the place of the spark plug and whistles when it's on the compression stroke. it cost about 7 bucks, but i dont remember where i bought it.
that's about all i can think of. i gave you my phone number so you can call if you need any quick answers. i'll be up until about midnight central time.
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10:07 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jul 14th, 2007
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Originally posted by buddycraigg: "wouldn't crank over"? when you turn the key to the start position and the engine spins. that is called cranking over. if it wouldn't do that, then you have a lot more problems. if it wouldn't FIRE, as in the engine spins but doesn't try to start then you just have the distributor stuck at the wrong place.
Right buddy, I should of wrote it wouldn't turn over. She's cranking fine. If I get a reply from you in a pm and I'm still having probs I'll give you a call. Thanks so much!
quote
Originally posted by gasmasher: The easy way if you think you got it right the first time, just on the wrong side of the 50%, the rotor needs to turn 180 deg. from where it is when you remove it. Pull it out, spin half way around, and insert.
So that means if my distributer is pointing at #6, like it is now because I cranked it, I need to remove it and place it back in pointing at #1. Right? My wife won't mind helping if need be to find compression but if this get me at TDC then hopefully I should be all set. You are all awesome! Thanks for so much help and positive ratings for those I hadn't yet. Marc
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03:41 AM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
You can use a large screwdriver on flywheel teeth too if underhood space is tight. They also make a special tool for turning the flywheel if you want to spend a few bucks.
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01:54 PM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Got it I was actually able to stick my finger in the hole and turn the crank myself with my long tourque wrench! When I felt the air I stopped then moved it around some more a bit while I had a dowel in there.I stopped again when it was protruding the most. Now I just have to fine tune with the light! Thanks again for all the help. TGFPFF!
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 07-14-2007).]
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03:54 PM
buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13620 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
I had the top half of my engine off to replace valve covers and injectors and I may not have put the distributer back with the rotor pointing where it was when I removed it. I'm trying to get TDC. Thanks, Marc
Wouldn't crank over. So I'd like to do it the right way. No ghetto's! After removing the distributer do I point the rotor back at #1 or do I face the rotor where it's facing now which is #6 because I cranked it? Also, when I crank it to get to TDC do I crank it quick or does it not matter as long as I do it once?
I was actually able to stick my finger in the hole and turn the crank myself with my long tourque wrench! When I felt the air I stopped then moved it around some more a bit while I had a dowel in there.I stopped again when it was protruding the most. Now I just have to fine tune with the light! Thanks again for all the help. TGFPFF!
