I just finished up my tensioner for my Archie swap alternator bracket. I've wanted to do this ever since I got the car done because I never liked that it was just held by tightened bolts. Plus I've thrown belts a few times in the past. This was a very simple mod and only took a few hours and minimal parts. You can have it done for less than $50. The adjustment rod goes on the lower alternator mount bolt and on the lower forward engine mount bolt. You will need the piece of fuel line to make the 8mm bolt fit snugly in the rod end of the adjustment rod. I am using the belt Archie suggests and I don't have AC. If you have AC, sorry I can't help you. My adjustment rod is set as short as it will go. You could make it shorter by shortening the threaded rod on the rod ends for more adjustment. I took the bolt out of the engine mount and replaced it with a 1.5" bolt along with the end of the adj. rod. Then I took off the lower alt. mount bolt and replaced it with the 1.5" 8mm bolt and the adj. rod with the fuel line acting as a bushing. Tighten everything up and adjust the rod if necessary for tension and you are all done. Now there is no way the alt. can move and throw a belt on you. I just took it to a car show and back and no problems. What do you think?

Heres what you need -
March performance adjustement rod #RA-1.625 (the shortest one they make) $35
1/2" long piece of steel 3/8" fuel line $1
1.5" 8mm bolt (to replace stock alt. bolt) $1
1.5" 3/8" bolt (to replace front motor mount bolt) $1



-Tim

You've got a + from me.

John

Wow, 65 views and 1 reply. I thought it was a pretty good thing I had here.

-Tim

Tim,
I think this is no less than outstanding....it shows a solid solution to an old problem. Thanks! I struggled with this for a long time. I'd jack up the alternator with a 2x4 or whatever else was around and then hope I wouldn't strip the thread in the aluminum head. I still threw belts or ran into the alternator belt scream when the AC switched on.
My V8 swap is about 6 yrs old now. For the last few years I used a hardware store turnbuckle, some spacers and stuff to do the same thing. It looks terrible but it did the job by preventing the alternator from coming downward. I have to say I found the turnbuckle thing somewhere deep in PFF a few years ago...so it's not my idea.

My plan now is to measure the center to center distance for my AC swap and post it so we can see if your great solution works also with AC...I'll bet it will!

Thanks for your solution!

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88GT ZZ4 Sequential EFI www.bigstuff3.com - 275 RWHP Dyno'd

Sorry, I've been unavailable all weekend.

I think it's a great looking job. Especially handy on Aluminium heads.

I've never been able to find a heim joint rod short enough to do that job.

Archie

Well, I'm curious about this idea. Basically what's happening here is that you're using an adjustable bolt set up to create tension to tighten the belt? Rodney's version looks like this, for those that aren't familiar with it...



But this is for a regular 2.8 engine. At $78, something cheaper and as effective would be great. One of the questions that I have is that I thought I read some place that someone had a concern about putting too much tension on the belt would damage the alternator? Is this a good solution or is there something out there that incorporates a heavy duty spring? Please keep in mind that I ask only because I don't know and would like to learn more about the effects of something like this as it relates to its effect on the components associated with the belt system.

Taking everything at face value, I like what you've come up with!

quote Originally posted by Archie: . I've never been able to find a heim joint rod short enough to do that job. Archie

If you move as much as going to the post office , that's why you could'nt find anything
This is ( I recognize your voice ) writing .

I've had this setup for a few years. Works great.

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1986 SE 350 V8

quote Originally posted by Robert 2: If you move as much as going to the post office , that's why you could'nt find anything This is ( I recognize your voice ) writing .

Well, let's see...... over the course of several months and many phone calls.......

A guy from Canada buys a partially assembled V-8 kit from someone in the U.S. He's told, by the seller, that everything is there.
After he gets it, he realizes that the video instruction tape is missing.
He calls the seller & the seller says to order one from Archie & tell Archie to call me (the seller) & I'll give him my C.Card number to pay for it.
Archie ships via UPS & he calculates the shippng costs and calls the seller 3 times in 2 days with no response.
(that's right, I wasn't charging for the tape, only for the cost of shipping it)
At this point I've wasted enough time on this & I drop it. Can't call the buyer to tell him because he never gave me his phone number.
Few weeks later & the buyer calls me wondering why he hasn't got the tape yet. Well sir, No one's paid for the shipping yet & I couldn't ship it without a phone number anyway.
Then I tell him that when I send the tape it would be via UPS because I'm not not going to go stand in line & fill out Customs paperwork, at the post office, when my UPS software will do it for me.
I also tell him that sometimes UPS charges Canadians a Brokerage Fee when they deliver a U.S. package in Canada & that I have no control about how much that is. So the package will arrive with some fees due.
He says he's not about to pay that fee & that I should send it via post.
I explain that my customers deserve my time & that I'm not going to waste an hour of my time going to the P.O. & back when I could sent it in 2 minutes via UPS.
Now I'm finding out that this non-customer who wants me to me to pay the postage & invest the time to go to the post office to send him a free video tape, has been on the Internet all the time.
And now he's telling me that I could find a heim joint rod between here & the Post Office.
Sorry Charlie, Between the shop & the P.O. here, there's nothing but Churches & Bars.

Now, if you had only explained to me from the beginning that I should send you a free tape at my own expense & take it to the P.O. so you won't have to pay any fees & in trade for that tape you wouldn't start throwing jabs at me on the Internet..... Then I'd have sent the tape in a minute.

Archie

TD37 - that's a pretty neat option! In 4+ years, I have not had any issues with the alternator belt tension on my SBC, but it is good to have that as an option if it happens. Way to think outside the box.

Have you checked to see if it would work with AC?

quote Originally posted by tesmith66: I've had this setup for a few years. Works great.

Can you show the bottom part? My belt sometimes gets loose and sqeals with the A/C. If I run it very tight it works ok. But having more pulley coverage would definitely help.

Anyway Archie you told me that you'll send the tape and after get settle with the seller . And 3 weeks after you tell me you were gonna send it next monday by UPS
Anyhow i have the tape now . And thank you very much
I'm not gonna spend time writing everything you told me , cause the seller gave you is phone number and told me you never called him. Not attacking you just telling the fact .

quote Originally posted by F-I-E-R-O: Well, I'm curious about this idea. Basically what's happening here is that you're using an adjustable bolt set up to create tension to tighten the belt? Rodney's version looks like this, for those that aren't familiar with it... But this is for a regular 2.8 engine. At $78, something cheaper and as effective would be great. One of the questions that I have is that I thought I read some place that someone had a concern about putting too much tension on the belt would damage the alternator? Is this a good solution or is there something out there that incorporates a heavy duty spring? Please keep in mind that I ask only because I don't know and would like to learn more about the effects of something like this as it relates to its effect on the components associated with the belt system. Taking everything at face value, I like what you've come up with!

Sorry I haven't replied, my internet has been acting up lately. Thanks for all the compliments. I'm not sure if something like this would work on an AC car. I've never worked on an AC car and don't know how it is set up. You can get these rods in any length so I'm sure something could be done very similiar. As for it possibly being too tight. The belt now isn't any tighter than when I wedged a board in betweed the alt. and the block and tightened the bolts into the head. But, now it STAYS that tight and shouldn't ever toss a belt at high revs. Here is a link to the march site where they have the lengths and part #'s listed towards the bottom. They do seem a little pricey but remember they are quality stainless and chromoly rod ends. Not barn door turnbuckles. Top notch stuff.

-Tim

http://www.marchperf.com/pg51.html#rods

Hey, what's wrong with barn door turnbuckles??

Alex, I don't have a pic of the other end. All I did was drill a hole in the cradle and run a bolt in to hold the bottom. To complete the redneck look, I wrapped it in electrical tape to keep it from vibrating.

Just for fun, I worked up an order for two 3/8" rod ends and a 4" adjusting sleeve from McMaster-Carr. I tossed a locknut into the mix, but could only get them in a bag of 100. You could save the $4.42 and get a nut locally.



This setup may not be as pretty or trendy as the March deal, but the price is nice.

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1986 SE 350 V8

[This message has been edited by tesmith66 (edited 06-19-2007).]