I have the necessary information for engine removal procedure (engine swap).But I dont have a pic of what to atttach the engine hoist to (on the chassie), in the rear, to lift the chassie high enough to remove the engine from the bottom.Any budy got a picture?
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08:02 PM
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Richjk21 Member
Posts: 2228 From: Central Square NY, USA Registered: Feb 2006
When I did it I hooked to a chain between the 2 strut towers. Some people just use hooks right on the strut tower openings. I wasn't real comfortable with this so I made some lifting blocks with eye bolts that I put inside the strut towers and hooked the chains to the eyes. I have a page with some cradle drop pics here....
The deck lid latch will work as well as the brace in the trunk where the trunk light is. This may requitre a little bending to straighten it back up to fit the light back in but it is a nice centered lifting point. What I finally did was make a jig that bolts to both strut towers and has a hook in the middle to lift from. Dan
I ran a chain through the brace at the front of the trunk compartment.
I have used the trunk latch, once. Bent it quite nicely. Had to hammer it back down. I really don't recommend this.
------------------ Raydar 88 4.9 Formula IMSA Fasback..........................88 3.4 coupe -soon to be something other than red Read Nealz Nuze!Praise the Lowered!
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 06-16-2007).]
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08:36 PM
ryan.hess Member
Posts: 20784 From: Orlando, FL Registered: Dec 2002
We didn't use a singular lifting point, we used two of the openings to the left and right of the trunk light, then looped a chain through the center of the chain and lifted it. Doesn't bend anything the way a single lift point may.
------------------ www.FieroDomain.com Over 120 Fiero Links, Articles, Images, Diagnostics
"If any car is both the parade and the rain, it is the Fiero"
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08:56 PM
2farnorth Member
Posts: 3402 From: Leonard, Tx. USA Registered: Feb 2001
You can pull back the trunk carpet, theres a couple places to hook onto there. JimmyS and myself just did this today. Good Luck Gary
Yes we did. Thats the same thing I did with my swap too. Pull out the trunk light and the 2 plastic carpet retainers in the trunk that are on the engine side. Pull the carpet down about 8 inches and you will see holes that you can hook a chain into.
I told you I should have brought the camera today Gary!
Found a pic that may help. It shows a little about what we are talking about. ------------------ My best advice when it comes to your Fiero is to "NOT" do any dealings with www.kitcarman.com
VIAGRA - Strong enough for a man but made for a woman
[This message has been edited by JimmyS (edited 06-16-2007).]
Using the trunk latch has worked for me without the motor in, but you will never get the deck to shut properly again (I couldn't anyway).
On the frame rails there are some holes you can hook to on both sides of the car. The chains will run down behind the motor. I lower the cradle onto the shop crain and lift the car over it. I put some bundled up towels between the chains and the forward trunk wall to keep the chains from scratching things up. The hole is located directy behind the steel brake line in this pic.
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09:51 PM
Daviero Member
Posts: 382 From: Thunder Bay, ON Canada Registered: Jan 2006
Here's the way I lifted my Fiero. The car is under the blankets - I kept it kind of clinical in an effort to save the paint. The frame is warehouse rack with a small beam across the shelf beams. Used racking is widly available, and the come-along makes it safe. The strongback beam is something I made up. The 2" x 4" x 3/8 wall HSS is kind of heavy, but I had it anyway. Happy hoisting! Dave.
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10:38 PM
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8872 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
I use a length of chain looped around the frame where the bumper attaches. I've always used this method and it is perfectly stable. I just hook the chain with an engine hoist and up it goes. I can't remember the size on the chain but it cost about $10 at the hardware store and is rated around 1 ton.
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10:55 PM
Jun 17th, 2007
DJCam Member
Posts: 280 From: burr ridge illinois USA Registered: Apr 2006
sory i dont have pics but there is a hole in the middle of the bumper once you take the bumper cover off. it in a centered location and i litteraly put the hook of the hoist into the hole. worked great and it was more stable than you might think. when i lifted from the trunk light hole i ended up bending it like said previously. i luckaly did it on a parts car so no harm done. this is a free no "rigging" way of doing it. just thought id throught it out there. chris
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01:21 AM
bamman Member
Posts: 314 From: Brooklyn, Nova Scotia, Canada Registered: Mar 2003
I have had my engine out three times and every time it has been done the same. I drive the front wheels up on some auto ramps, much the same as in Xanth's picture. I then jack the rear of the car up with a floor jack using some blocking under the floor jack in order to get the top of the rear wheel wells 42 inches off the floor. I place jack stands just ahead of the front cradle bolts (on the frame). I raise the engine hoist ( cherry picker) about as high as it will go above the engine with a chain connecting the engine and cherry picker. I unhook the axle's at the spindle's and remove the 4 cradle bolts (after disconnecting the electrical and collant etc ) Then drop the cradle onto the cherry picker's frame which is extended under the car. Once on the cherry pickers frame I unhook the chain and slide the cradle and cherry picker out from underneath the car.
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07:45 AM
fieroguru Member
Posts: 12482 From: Champaign, IL Registered: Aug 2003
I have always used a chain attached to the strut bolt holes. I used to push the struts down far enough to get the bolt in, but since I modified the tops of the struts (removed the studs and convered to bolts, I can just remove 1 bolt from each side and attach the chain - leaving the struts attached.
It is now faster/simpler for my now to leave the struts/brakes/uprights attached, just disconnect the uprights from the suspension links (88) and remove the axles (majority of the time they will need to be removed later anyway).
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 06-17-2007).]
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07:59 AM
chrishahn87 Member
Posts: 1584 From: East Berlin, Pa - USA Registered: Dec 2004
often times folks use the decklid loop where the stricker locks, I've done this myself once with no problems
My dad I have taken motors out of and put back in to Fieros exactly 9 times. Been there done that (almost) while removing / installing motors in Fieros. Dad and I always use the decklid striker loop. I dont really totally trust it STILL... but it works to lift the body (w/o motor).
The only problem we have had (mentioned by someone else earlier) is that the decklid striker loop may get bent a little. Not really a problem, just take a rubber mallett, or hammer and bash it back down to where its supposed to be
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09:48 AM
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
Anyone got a pic of the place in the trunk area where you hook the chains. I have always used the strut tower holes and other than a slight lifting of the lip, never had a problem but if there's somewhere I can use with less damage then so much the better.
I have used the trunk latch, once. Bent it quite nicely. Had to hammer it back down. I really don't recommend this.
That is why I keep a spare latch just for this purpose. I tac welded the base for added strength too. I use it all the time. If you don't have a spare then you can use the one you have but like Raydar said, you will have to hammer it back into shape when done. Not a big deal but don't forget to do it or your hatch won't close properly.
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10:53 AM
Richjk21 Member
Posts: 2228 From: Central Square NY, USA Registered: Feb 2006
Anyone got a pic of the place in the trunk area where you hook the chains. I have always used the strut tower holes and other than a slight lifting of the lip, never had a problem but if there's somewhere I can use with less damage then so much the better.
Here is my original post I made on the lifting blocks I used ..... Hmmm you actually had a comment in the original thread questioning the idea ... maybe you're warming up to it
That's where I looped my chain through. Just another option instead of using hooks. One's as good as the other.
I used to use an engine hoist to lift the car, but I do this often enough that I had gantry constructed from steel. Looks like "the swingset from hell". I just suspend a chain hoist or come-a-long from it. It was kinda spendy (~$300) but it's still cheaper than even one trip to the ER (or worse) because of being hit or smashed by a falling car. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
quote
Originally posted by Daviero: The frame is warehouse rack with a small beam across the shelf beams. Used racking is widly available, and the come-along makes it safe.
I looked all over for something like this. Everything I found was either too big or was as expensive as what I had constructed. That's *definitely* the way to do it, if you can.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 06-17-2007).]
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11:12 AM
Jun 21st, 2007
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
Here is my original post I made on the lifting blocks I used ..... Hmmm you actually had a comment in the original thread questioning the idea ... maybe you're warming up to it
I recall that thread now. I think I still have the same concern and one other, if that block of wood splits it's going to let go with a big bang, that side will drop onto the washer with enough force to squish it through the strut opening in the top of the tower followed by a collapse of everything. I'm sure it worked fine for you but the way my week has been going lately, well, you get the idea
I recall that thread now. I think I still have the same concern and one other, if that block of wood splits it's going to let go with a big bang, that side will drop onto the washer with enough force to squish it through the strut opening in the top of the tower followed by a collapse of everything. I'm sure it worked fine for you but the way my week has been going lately, well, you get the idea
That's cool .... everyone has to do what they're comfortable with. As with anything else, there's a million ways to do it.... Just trying to throw additional options out there, I don't think there's necessarily one "Right" way.
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07:19 AM
William Federle Member
Posts: 733 From: Milwaukee WI, USA Registered: Sep 1999
With the engine in the car I lifted the car with a chain through each engine lifting bracket. These brackets were already attached to my duke. When lifting the car without the engine in it I hooked the chain hooks into the tops of the strut towers. I swapped a duke/transmission/craddle from one car to another.
On the donor car I tried lifting with the striker loop and pulled it partially loose so I didn't try that on the target car. I had the front of the car up on jack stands, and had a concrete block standing on its end with a piece of 4X4 on it on each side at the jacking point to hold the car high enough to get the struts to clear the wheel wells.
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07:20 AM
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
Originally posted by William Federle: to get the struts to clear the wheel wells.
Y'see, that's thing I don't understand, everyone seems to remove the cradle with the struts still attached. I've never done it that way, I've always removed the struts first and never had a problem with the engine clearing the side of the car, even the old DOHC which was a BIG motor came out the side easily with the struts off.
Maybe I'm spoiled by having my own shop, but no one here uses a lift??? Dave
But of course .... if I'm not feeling adventurous ... then I just have Jeeves run the car up the lift .... and my head mechanic ..... that little Italian fellow .... Enzo .... that's it .... He does whatever needs to be done .... but then I miss the fun of getting my hands dirty ...
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03:21 PM
ryan.hess Member
Posts: 20784 From: Orlando, FL Registered: Dec 2002
In the end I pulled the trunk carpet back and went with this method
It has the advantage over using the strut towers that the cherry picker stands further back from the car. With the hooks in the strut towers I used to find the ram on the hoist hitting up against the rear fender of the car and the hoist legs would be in the way for placing the jack stands under the car when lowering it.
Thats the same thing I did with my swap too. Pull out the trunk light and the 2 plastic carpet retainers in the trunk that are on the engine side. Pull the carpet down about 8 inches and you will see holes that you can hook a chain into.
