Ok so my new ignition module lasted 10 miles. Engine ran fine it was cooling nicley but boy that module was hot after I pulled it. So is there a btter brand than teh tsock Oreilly stuff? Also is there anything else besides heat heat and heat that could be doing this??

AC Delco. Might be a little more but is quality stuff.

I've been happy with my Standard module, costs around $90 I believe.

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Are you using heat sink compound on the bottom of the module?

Are the screws that hold the module down clean and free of rust or corrosion? The module grounds through those screws, so if they're dirty you'll get a bad connection and that can shorten module life.

I bought a performance one from the fiero store and it went out in a month, I exchanged it and the new one went out in a month. So i put the stock one back on and have had no problems with it. It is to bad, because it made a noticeable difference. I too would like to know where I could get a good performance one that won't go out.

Make sure you clean out the mesh under the module in the distributor. This will allow air flow around the module. Also check to see if your blower motor in the trunk is functioning. It should turn on when the cooling fan does. It doesn't blow much but it does provide air movement on the alternator, coil, and module. Make sure that your heat shielding is there also. This directs the blower air to the module. This will all help to keep it cool and make it last longer.

my 86 had a blower in it with pipes coming out to blow air, but my 88 doesn't have one. Should I look into getting one. I don't believe their is even wiring their for it.

Wait, is it 2.5 or 2.8?

Who's? Mine were both 2.8. None of my 2.5 had them either. I assumed they didn't come with them.

quote Originally posted by fierofinder: Who's? Mine were both 2.8. None of my 2.5 had them either. I assumed they didn't come with them.

Yes yours. Sorry I should have quoted it. None of the 2.5's had them. All of the 2.8's should. Without them there is little air movement around the electrical components. Hotspots are created because of the heat rising off of the exhaust manifolds. A deck lid vent can also help with this problem along with a lower t-stat or fan switch. For that matter anything that will lower the under hood (deck lid) temps. And as Formula88 stated make sure those screws are clean so you get a good ground.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 05-12-2007).]

Yeah this is a 2.5 duke sorry should have specified. I used teh grease had new screws and a nice clean distributor to attach to. I remembered a post from someone who used the white heatsink grease for a CPU in a computer on his module and he never had problems. Which I believe that grease that comes with the module looks a little weak. So I bought some of that white grease for 3 bucks at radio shack. Figure I don't have too much to lose. Any thoughts on that white grease???

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: Yes yours. Sorry I should have quoted it. None of the 2.5's had them. All of the 2.8's should. Without them there is little air movement around the electrical components. Hotspots are created because of the heat rising off of the exhaust manifolds. A deck lid vent can also help with this problem along with a lower t-stat or fan switch. For that matter anything that will lower the under hood (deck lid) temps. And as Formula88 stated make sure those screws are clean so you get a good ground.

The cooling blower for the coil/alt was discontinued on the 88 models.


Rich

I've never used anything other then what is included with the module. But here is some info on the grease you used. I just use the grease that comes with it...
http://www.electronix.com/c...og/images/20-127.pdf

Its odd, most of the time the 2.5's don't really have a problem with the module dying compared to the 2.8's problems. I have had 2 go out in about 30 minutes once. First one died, towed the car home and swapped distributors with another 2.5 of the same year. Drove away and that one dies too. Then I bought a new one and it stll works 2 years later. Never could figure out why it happened. They were both AC delco and both working before those drives. You probably just got a bad one. In my experience the auto parts stores wont take them back if they have been installed. Even if you were only able to go 10 miles. I would say try again, get a Delco and make sure everything else is good before you drive it again. Probably couldn't hurt to do some more research also.

My local Oreily's sells Borg/Warner. They carry a standard and a premium module. (think it is just tested to a higher standard)

I always get the premium and have never had a problem in my 85 or my 88 with the ones I have bought.

You might ask if your store carry different level modules also. The difference in price is < $10.

I used the module that came with my re-built distributor. It had heatsink compound already, and has lasted well over 6 months. I should probably mention that my blower motor is dead, so it's really stood up well against the heat.

I buy Autozones. For a Fiero theyre about $25 and come with lifetime replacement warranty. I went thru about 3 of them in 7 years/ 100K. I tried an OEM $90 Delco once and it didnt last more than a few weeks. Mine was a V6 with no cooling fan, by 88 GM decided it didnt work. I think a few guys on here made a wiring harness and moved the module into the rear trunk or onto a big heat sink. I didnt think the 4 bangers had much of a problem.

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: Thats odd both of my dad's 88 GT have them. Correction: I just called him and he said that they WERE eliminated. He had used a 85 motor for his 3.1 build up and put it back in for that 88GT. Oops. Guess I should get my facts strait first. Sorry. Nice to another Oregon fiero owner. Are you a member of FierosNorthwest? I was wondering about the club myself.

No worries ..... and yes I am a member

Rich

Could be a bad coil. To me they go hand and hand and I would try changing them together.

You know what folks?? I put in a new module and it didn't start. I was really assuming that I bought a crappy module. So I pulled off the coil and it looked like it pooped some black turd out the back of it. Bought a new coil and it started right up. Good discustion regardless. Those module really seem to be a pain for some folks.

Has anyone ever taken a module apart to see if the rivets are actually a ground?