how are those rustoleum paint jobs looking?

you can try seaching it. There a been a few threads and the paint looked like it came out nice when it was finished

yeah, but i was wondering if anybody actually finished a car lately and would show us some pictures and tell us what the pros and cons are and if they're satisfied.

I am very interested in what people have to say so far too.

I am contemplating the Rustoleum paint job as well, seeing as the paint scheme I want is gonna cost a lot to have it done by a real car Painter...

There is a reason why they make automotive paint and a reason why it is expensive. Because it is worth every penny. You get what you pay for. I have no doubt you can get a nice paint job from rattle cans but after a year of the elements and if you want to sell the car you might regret it. My .02. PPG or DuPont is expensive and I know in the end when your on a budget an aternative can get you by. Trust me I knw oabout budgets.

And spraypaint is supposed to be outside its entire life, so I fail to see why it would weather significantly worse than automotive paint.

I want my next Fiero to be this color:

[This message has been edited by AP2k (edited 05-03-2007).]

that would be super bright lol

Go to the moparts forum and spend a day or two reading all about it.

http://board.moparts.org/ub...page=0&fpart=78&vc=1

Some of these people are getting amazing results.

Bob

Honestly, while regular auto paint is porbably more durable, a quality exterior paint will likely last 5+ years.
I am seriously considering using one of the interlux marine paints,regular is anbout 30$/qt, even the 2 part is only 70$ quart, which should do a car with 2 coats. and is very easy to get a nice finish. it is good for 10 years on boats, in a much harsher environment.

Hey you guys do whatever you want to your cars. I paint PPG and Dupont everyday and nothing beats a quality base coat clear coat paint job. When I sling paint on my car it will be an automotive basecoat clearcoat system. Just my two cents. I know you can get a good finish from rattle cans I'm just leary about it. Good luck with your project.

I think that comparing an automotive paint job against a rattle-can/rustoleum paint job is like comparing apples and oranges.

One is done in a controlled environment, with equipment and products that are designed to work together to reduce the amount of work the shop is required to prep and finish a paint job.

The other is a product that is designed to be used on a myriad of surfaces. This doesn't mean that it can't be used on a car, just that your preparation is going to be significantly more labor intensive. Rattle cans tend to have an irregular spray pattern and consistency, but you put enough on and prep between coats and you can make it look just as good.

If I was in the auto-paint industry, I'd be inclined to use the tools that I'm familiar with. Heck.. My nephew has a paint booth. I'm tempted even though I don't have any experience with auto paint products. Realistically I'll probably paint mine with rustoleum because I can do that in my driveway.

I've seen crappy "Earl Scheib" paint jobs... I've seen great rustoleum paint jobs. It all boils down to the amount of effort put into the job.

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Kendall (Icelander) Whitlatch
'85 Fiero 2M4 - 5spd Isuzu
'67 LeMans/GTO clone 6.5 litre TH400
All the rest aren't Pontiacs, so what does it matter?

Wrong rustoleum buddy, ya gotta use laytex semi gloss. My father painted an old beater Fiero with a 4" roller and a can of black semi-gloss, it actualy looked really good, coverage was nice and even, good color, little shine, no show winner, but you couldnt tell driving down the road either.

Heck I'm going to color my car with a Sharpie and some glitter glue. A roller and latex? Come on talk about ruining your car.

quote Originally posted by Icelander: I think that comparing an automotive paint job against a rattle-can/rustoleum paint job is like comparing apples and oranges.

More like comparing grapes to raisins - especially after a few years. ;-)

quote Originally posted by Icelander: One is done in a controlled environment, with equipment and products that are designed to work together to reduce the amount of work the shop is required to prep and finish a paint job.

Not always. I don't have a booth; hell I don't even have doors on my building. But I can turn out show quality jobs in the parking lot.

quote Originally posted by Icelander: I've seen crappy "Earl Scheib" paint jobs... I've seen great rustoleum paint jobs. It all boils down to the amount of effort put into the job.

Shieb uses cheap paint. Won't last much longer than spray-can jobs.
It's mostly a matter of how long you want it to last. Spray cans *might* be able to last a couple years (& still look really good), maybe longer if you clear-coat them. But by the time you do all that, you're spending nearly as much as the cheaper brands of *good* paint (which will last decades), & taking *much* longer to apply it.
If I *had* to paint my car (& wasn't a painter) on a very tight budget, I would look for a Maaco or local shop with a good reputation, prep the car myself, & pay what little they charge to shoot it with base/clear.
If you shoot it with spray cans, be prepared to spend a LOT more (or do a LOT more work) stripping the crappy paint off in the near future when you have to paint it again.
Sometimes I use spray cans on pulleys & brackets, though. ;-p
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

If you can't take the heat, get out of the nuclear reactor.

The local college career-tech center painted my car for me. I could have done it myself because I have the shop and equipment, but they needed an end of semester project to get a grade on, and the price was right. It was done with PPG materials, so it should look good for a while. They can buy the materials much cheaper than most professionals can, so before I got the rattle cans out, I'd check out the local trade schools.

I was talking about useing a foam roller to paint it. thats the way I'm interested in doing the paint job.

If you are considering Rustoleum and a roller, consider Krylon or spray lacquer. Remember you are painting on plastic and not metal.

Spray type Krylon puts a better finish on than Rustoleum spray. A roller will need fairly thin viscosity to allow it to settle out and discourage orange peel. I'd thin it 25%.

Arn

grapes to raisons...lol....
How true ...in essence they are both paint jobs but one looks voluptuous and full of life and the other looks like a deer pellet ( falls from deer exhaust)

Go to gravel pit and pick up a rock …present it to fiancé and ask for her hand for life…
( bet you get it for maybe a couple of seconds across the face)
Go to jeweler and pick up a rock ….present it to fiancé and ask for her hand for life…
( very good possibility you’ll get it )

Question is …..how much do you think of your car???


Side note …if wife is the issue with the paint job…..remind her on how much her rock cost…..

If no wife …..stay outta the pub for a few weeks and use quality paint for its intention…..who knows …you might just impress another Fiero lover

Krylon…..marking out foundations on dirt
Rustoleum/Tremclad…..never found a useful purpose for it but if you get caught doing graffiti with it ….it WILL come off easily

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It isnt re-creation....its recreation!!!!

I painted my Suzuki Samurai White, Black and Grey camo in Dec. '02 with Krylon. I did a clearcoat over only the "most chance of dings" areas (i.e. door edges, wheelwell edges, etc.). I sanded the entire vehicle, and payed close attention to flash times and temp. It still looks like the day I painted it, after all of the mud and repeated "Power-washings". The clear coat areas are still shiny even. I grew up in a body shop and used to laugh at people who painted thier cars with "rattle-bombs". I did this to my vehicle because it was a camo paint job and knew I could just touch it up if need be. I wasn't expecting to NOT have to touch it up! I think the secret is to any paint job is the prep. Where I didn't prep the door jams and the paint shot through, it is starting to peel and flake, but those surfaces were COMPLETELY un-prepped. I think if you prep the surfaces properly, pay attention to temp and flash time for the paint, you will have a pretty good paint job. I wouldn't advise using a roll on paint, many thin layers work better than one thick layer. Paying attention to flash time will bond them all together. I also used Krylon because of the spray nozzle. It sprays with a large oval pattern instead of a small round pattern. More like a regular spraygun does. When I paint the "Baja" fiero, I will use Krylon again, only this time I will clearcoat ALL of the car!

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carpe diem

I once painted a 54 pontiac with rustoleum. Brushed it, wasn't too bad, covered a lot of rust and it looked clean for many years. I also spray painted a 63 buick first with aerosol cans (white). After a year outside it looked like crap, and it was white to begin with. A few years later I invested $50 in a spray gun, and I already had the compressor. I repainted it with automotive paint. The guys at the paint supply shop were extremely helpful, and it came out great (relatively speaking). Since then I've gotten better, and I've painted a 37 packard and a 67 corvette, and they came out quite good, done in the driveway or garage. The "secret" is to just lay the paint on, try not to get any runs, do 2 or 3 coats. Don't worry about a few bugs stuck to it. Once it's dry, you wet sand it and then buff it out. The wet sanding takes out any orange peel (I also sanded out a nasty run on one side), and the buffing brings up the gloss. My son has done a few cars with clearcoat on top, and they came out great too. I suggest getting a book or a video on it and then try it. It's not that hard to get a decent job.