Man, the cylinder deck dowel pins in my N* engine were in real tight. In past rebuilds, I've been able to grab one with a pair of Vise-Grips, and "walk" them out of the hole. Not these. I tried inserting a bolt into the center hollow section to keep from crushing it, grab the pin with a pair of Vise-Grips, and pry the 'Grips up with a couple prybars. No luck. Then I drilled 1/4" holes through the sides of each pin and inserted a 1/4" rod and welded it in place.


Then I positioned two metal wedges (a single steel and a single stainless steel wedges were all I had on hand) under the 1/4" rod, and atop a 1/16" thick aluminum sheet, with the wedges pointed in opposite directions on either side of the pin.


Then I alternately beat each wedge until the pin was free.


I've never seen dowel pins that were so tough to get out. I hope this info may help someone else out there.

[This message has been edited by WAWUZAT (edited 04-15-2007).]

A slide hammer is probably an easier choice. You can tap the dowel and screw in the shaft and pop it out.

I've used slide-hammers many a time, but there's not enough material to tap any kind of thread inside these hollow dowels. I just measured a couple, and their walls run from 0.050" to 0.053" thick. My first attempt with the wedges was before welding the rods to the dowels. The top edges of the 1/4" holes were a bit more than 1/8" from the top of each dowel. When I started with the wedges, the rods ripped the tops of the dowels open. Then I hammered them back down over the rods & fired up the MIG machine ... and covered the engine with a protective blanket to keep sparks from getting into whatever.

Did I get an email from you? I will check later.
I have the best trick for that and everyone in the shop uses my tool. it is the best.

You insert this and turn counterclockwise. After it gets just a little tight put some vise grips pliers on the out side. use a socket and ratchet to turn the dowel and remove it.
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AJ - Yes, I did send you an e-mail, but Norm Huhn answered it for me. Was a question about the GM coating on new N* head bolts. I did not know if the coating was a lubricant or a thread locker, and I also questioned if the coating would be needed if using inserts on an aluminum block. Norm said it's a thread locker.

[This message has been edited by WAWUZAT (edited 04-10-2007).]

Have you tried heating the block with a MAPP gas torch?

they come right out very easy with the splined easy out.

quote Originally posted by Hank is Here: Have you tried heating the block with a MAPP gas torch?

Actually, I did do that with one corner that was particularly stubborn ... wedges AND heat.