Tell me, do the problems ever end? Haha, oh well. Anyways, just got done replacing rear rotors, calipers, pads, and hoses, all stock, and I'm having a terrible time getting the piston to compress enough to get the rotor to fit between the pads. Is there a trick to this? Something is def. not right because it's not like the rotor is just tight in the new pads, it's that I can't even get it in between them. I recall something about needing to do something with the e-brake nut, but I took it off and it didnt seem to help. Any ideas? Thanks!
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12:35 PM
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blackrams Member
Posts: 33270 From: Covington, TN, USA Registered: Feb 2003
Take off the lever arm and loosely replace the nut. Then use a big C clamp - one side on the piston end and the other side on a socket that contacts the caliper housing outside of the nut and seal on the opposite side. Compress the piston until it is in the fully retracted position (like it was when you bought it new). Then put the lever and nut back on.
[This message has been edited by William Federle (edited 04-08-2007).]
the rear brake piston dosen't compress back, you need to rotate it back, there's a tool for rotating it back, looks like a cube, you can get it at pepboy's or autozone
[This message has been edited by jweisman (edited 04-08-2007).]
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01:46 PM
William Federle Member
Posts: 733 From: Milwaukee WI, USA Registered: Sep 1999
I've spent many happy hours trying to rotate the piston back with that cube. It will compress back if you take the lever off first and use a socket to avoid contacting the nut and stud with the c clamp. The stud will rotate as you compress the piston. It is a lot easier and faster than using the cube. I did it this way the last time I replaced my brake pads. It might be a problem with an old caliper if the owner hasn't been using the E-brake.
[This message has been edited by William Federle (edited 04-08-2007).]
I've spent many happy hours trying to rotate the piston back with that cube. It will compress back if you take the lever off first and use a socket to avoid contacting the nut and stud with the c clamp. The stud will rotate as you compress the piston. It is a lot easier and faster than using the cube. I did it this way the last time I replaced my brake pads. It might be a problem with an old caliper if the owner hasn't been using the E-brake.
I agree, that cube tool is a knuckle buster, there is a much better tool that doesen't slip, made by Lisle part # 25080
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03:12 PM
Raydar Member
Posts: 41491 From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country. Registered: Oct 1999
I have never had any success rotating the piston back in, even though it is the "recommended" procedure. It just didn't go.
The C clamp worked wonderfully, however.
------------------ Raydar 88 4.9 Formula IMSA Fasback..........................88 3.4 coupe -soon to be something other than red Read Nealz Nuze!Praise the Lowered!
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03:34 PM
ConvictedRedneck Member
Posts: 1034 From: Easton, PA - USA Registered: Nov 2005
