OK, I did try the search function first ... in both active and archived files ... no luck. I was reading the GM service manual before starting some work on my N* cylinders heads. In order to remove the valve cover, I need to pull the water pump pulley off the end of the intake camshaft. The manual says to use one of specialized GM tools (J-38825). Can I use a larger generic gear puller that grabs the outside of the pulley? What have y'all found that works without damaging the pulley?

Along that same line, I looked at another camshaft that already had the pulley off. I could not see a keyway slot, a flat surface, or anything else that would keep the pulley from rotating on the shaft. Is the press-on friction the only thing that keeps the pulley in place?

I was also reading about using a valve spring compressor to remove the valve keepers. The GM manual calls for another special tool (J-38821) to be positioned atop the spring retainer that's used like a spacer for the compressor-tool. The valves & springs don't stick up in the air like they do on a rocker-arm engine. They're down inside the head beneath the cam followers. Have any of y'all fabricated your own spacer from a piece of scrap tubing or an old socket? If so, any info provided will be greatly appreciated ... and a photo or eight would be grand!

Thanks in advance, Ken

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/080614.html
The water pump pulley remover is like a power steering pump pulley puller. I will post all the speacial tools needed on the posting above.

When I saw that I needed a power steering pump puller to get the water pump pulley off the cam, my first thought was what a great moment in engineering just one of many things about this engine that make me go WTF. don't get me wrong, I'm still looking forward to getting mine done.

Guns kill people,
like spoons made Rosie Odonnel fat. Joe

I guess I'll go buy a pulley puller. But what keeps the pulley on the shaft, and what keeps it from turning on the shaft? Is it that tight of a fit?

BTW, other than a dealer, does anyone know a source for the little belt tensioner for the water pump belt? I can't fins a listing for one on the discount GM parts websites.

The W/P pulley is held on by friction. It only has to transmit single digit horsepower to drive the waterpump and orientation is irrelevant.
You will break the pulley if you try to pull on the rim. You must pull on the hub. The pulley is plastic, but the hub is steel. I've used generic pullers for this. There is a common style of jaw that only needs minor work to fit perfectly.

I milled a slot in a piece of 3/4 in pipe and put a cap on the end of it to push on. With a polyethylene sleeve to protect the lifter bore, and a helper with a magnetic probe to pull the keepers, this tool works fine to remove the valve retainers. It just takes some elbow grease.

quote Originally posted by AJxtcman: The water pump pulley remover is like a power steering pump pulley puller.

Not like, IS.

You can rent the PS pulley puller kit from autozone. The pulley is plastic, so ONLY use one that slips on the metal collar. The parts look like this:

quote Originally posted by ryan.hess: Not like, IS. You can rent the PS pulley puller kit from autozone. The pulley is plastic, so ONLY use one that slips on the metal collar. The parts look like this:

I have that exact tool from MAC.
I may have used it once for the water pump pulley I can not say for sure. It will work I can say that. We have a tool room at the dealer and it is located at the end of my first stall. in the tool room we have a box of Northstar tool. It is easier for me to grab it. I would recomend the clam shell type to be added to any tool box.

[This message has been edited by AJxtcman (edited 03-18-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Will: It's simple and the MFG costs are low. Once you open the engine up and see how it compares to a SBC, you will have no doubt that it is MUCH more advanced design.

Maybe, but any design that relys on friction to work is a crappy design. The the aerospace business we are taught never to rely on friction to get the job done.

quote Originally posted by Will: The W/P pulley is held on by friction.

Friction may not be the best choice of words. It is a pressed fit like a Power Steering Pump Pulley or a wrist pin. Friction and pressed either or.

The tool I own that Ryan showed also installs the pulley

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Cadillac Tech
ASE MASTER TECH since 1988

86 Northstar Fiero
85 RX7 former SCCA car
56 TR3 small mouth 6.0L
A.J. Whiteley

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Maybe, but any design that relys on friction to work is a crappy design. The the aerospace business we are taught never to rely on friction to get the job done.

...Is that why the space shuttle program has had such resounding success and reliability? Just kidding, sort of...

quote Originally posted by WAWUZAT:I guess I'll go buy a pulley puller.

Rented one from NAPA. Free. Buy it, use it, return it, receive full refund.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Maybe, but any design that relys on friction to work is a crappy design. The the aerospace business we are taught never to rely on friction to get the job done.

The Getrag 5th gear input and 3-4 output clusters are press fits on their respective shafts. The press is the ONLY thing that transmits torque. There are no splines. Those boxes seem to have acceptable lives at 150+% of their design loads. When the boxes fail, it's never from the press fits slipping.

quote Originally posted by ryan.hess: Not like, IS. You can rent the PS pulley puller kit from autozone. The pulley is plastic, so ONLY use one that slips on the metal collar. The parts look like this:

What's funny is that the P/S pulley on my dad's Murc is plastic too. He bought a puller and snapped the pulley in 3 pieces. Now, he paid $8 for the puller, but a new pulley is $6. You do the math. He said if he had to do it again, he's using his "Speed wrench".

[This message has been edited by AquaHusky (edited 03-20-2007).]

Suggestion: to aid the fitting of the press fit, cool the shaft with a cool cloth, and warm the hub of whatever you want to install - even a trouble light with a rag over it will warm it enough in short order. The parts will almost fall together, but be quick! Once the heat bleeds out of the hub and into the shaft, you are left with the original press fit. This works well with large bearings where the hub has lots of mass. Watch out for plastic around the hub though.

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Daviero - 88 N* GT

quote Originally posted by WAWUZAT: Rented one from NAPA. Free. Buy it, use it, return it, receive full refund.

Forget the refund. I liked the tool so much, I bought it.