i have an 86 gt bone stock. was wondering if it would be woth the time and money for ported heads, rockers and better flowing valves. or should i not do it without a new cam?
thanks
------------------ Anson Craig
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07:15 PM
PFF
System Bot
ducattiman Member
Posts: 674 From: TheNetherlands Registered: Mar 2003
Ac Fiero, I think you’ll find that the more specific your questions, and your goals for the engine, the more useful the information you’ll receive --- especially from the engine builders, an underappreciated group if I ever saw one.
For example, you recently asked “what if I get a better cam, what would be the best?” For many engine builders, that tends to beg the question, “For what?”
I once witnessed a would-be customer ask an engine builder, without giving the builder any information at all as to what his car was (not even the make or model!), “What’s the biggest cam I can put in my car?” The customer soon left, irate became he said the engine builder, actually a very patient and helpful guy, was being too "nosy" for asking about the car’s weight, its gears, its engine size, and so on.
Fortunately, you’re way, way ahead of that guy. Many people here know or can reasonably guess a lot about your car's weight, its gears, and its engine size, for example, because you’ve already said you have an “86 GT bone-stock.” So that helps a lot.
But more specifically, what are your goals for the car? For example, do you want to run 11-second quarter-mile times, or do you just want it to be a little zippier from 0 to 60 mph? Does it have to run reliably on pump gas in the winter? Do you want an engine that looks really nice? How about 14-second quarter-mile times? I don’t think one goal is inherently better than another because after all, it’s your car.
There are a lot of helpful people here, and if you take the time to think through and candidly communicate clearly what your engine goals are, I think you’ll find they’ll be able to be even more helpful.
P.S. If you do end up with one of those dual throttle body set-ups, I think it would be great if you posted a picture of it.
You gotta think of it as a system not one mod does a lot but as a whole you can change the character of the motor. With the things you said......
Do the dual TB intake, I love mine performs well and very cheap. Get a performance oriented cam...crane 272 forget the 260 it sucks Port the lower intake and middle intake Port the heads because once the intake is handled your next restriction is the heads Port the exhaust manifolds that is good for 10hp Have your Y pipe gutted that is worth another 10hp Full roller rockers are cheap and they will help Then if you need to go faster juice it.
i just want it to be a little quiker and still run on pump gas in winter. i dont need anything thats gonna run in the 11's or anything like that. i cant afford a bigger engine nor do i need to try and squeeze every little pony out of the 2.8.
The exhaust manifolds are dyno proven for 10hp. The Y pipe is another 10hp. And porting the intake neck for a bigger TB only increases throttle response because the top intake is the problem.
[This message has been edited by goatnipples2002 (edited 01-29-2007).]
Ac Fiero, this seems to demonstrate the validity of my earlier comment in this thread, “…the more specific your questions, and your goals for the engine, the more useful the information you’ll receive…”
i have an 86 gt bone stock. was wondering if it would be woth the time and money for ported heads, rockers and better flowing valves. or should i not do it without a new cam?
thanks
Your porting work enhances other work more than stands on its own.
If you improve your intake and exhaust, you will want to port to maximize those benefits.
The cam helps too, however, a cam without porting limits what you can get out of it. The 1.6 rockers deliver almost as much as a fairly lumpy cam.
Bottom line is that they are relate to each other. There is no single silver bullet.
Hope this helps your understanding.
Arn
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09:01 PM
Jan 29th, 2007
BobadooFunk Member
Posts: 5436 From: Pittsburgh PA Registered: Jun 2003
thanks for all the help. i have ported the exhaust manifolds from my parts car, just need to swap them. is porting the y pipe just as easy?how abut the intake?
thanks for all the help. i have ported the exhaust manifolds from my parts car, just need to swap them. is porting the y pipe just as easy?how abut the intake?
HELL NAW! The Y pipe has to be cut open and then gutted.
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02:29 PM
Ac Fiero Member
Posts: 114 From: Johnstown PA Registered: Jun 2006
i was just doing a search on porting the y pipe and a few guys said that they lost low end torque, and the higher hp didnt make up for it. is this true?
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03:39 PM
Pyrthian Member
Posts: 29569 From: Detroit, MI Registered: Jul 2002
maybe, but doubtful. much depends on overall setup, and also on if they actually dyno'd it, or "it just feels that way"
I just recently put on headers, which also include a y-pipe. both the headers & the y-pipe are larger than the stock manifolds & y-pipe. I had a noticable loss of low end torque. the car felt slower. but, when I checked against a benchmark I had set for myself way back when I first got the car - it was actually faster.
Essentially a more open exhaust with short runners will move your power band up.
The Y pipe can be cleaned out pretty easy, and I don't think you'll be sorry. The exhaust port in the head will be more restrictive than the pipe. The lower end torque change is marginal for what you are doing. You will pick up some better breathing and that means alot throughout the band.
BTW You cut the cross section of the Y AFTER you mark the pipe with at least 2 marks so it goes back together in the right orientation.
thanks for the pics. also, did you guys ever hear that you should not gasket match the exhaust port in the head?sa-motrsports.comsays its a bad idea, you need that step from the head to the manifold to resist back flow in the exhaust.
thanks for the pics. also, did you guys ever hear that you should not gasket match the exhaust port in the head?sa-motrsports.comsays its a bad idea, you need that step from the head to the manifold to resist back flow in the exhaust.
This is true but you can open the runner up and still have a step to prevent reversion.
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