Getting everthing ready for painting. Using Adhesion Promoter on the bare flexible parts, then primer, paint & clear. Shouldn't flex additive be in all spray on items to flexible parts like bumper & fenders?
Also not baking as this is a DIY so clear goes on over painted surfaces soon after like 20-30 minutes. I do have some quartz work lights that get pretty hot thought I might try to use them on the bumpers & fenders to kinda bake it.
If you are using a urethane auto paint, it flexes enough for our cars. I've had no problems with Nason Urethane to date. It is a totally different animal than the older style paints.
Arn
IP: Logged
03:26 PM
Russ544 Member
Posts: 2136 From: S.W. Oregon Registered: Jun 2003
agreed. I've had several pro painters tell me that the flex additive escapes the paint after a short time anyway, so it's really not used much anymore.
Mike, No one uses flex additive anymore. When are you doing the paint. Keep the temp up in the area, and make sure theres no silconic products around, so it won`t fish-eye on you..
Some of the Urethane makers suggest still using flex agent for rubber bumpers. Depends on how flexible you want the paint to be. I use Sikkens & add flex agent on the bumpers. I expect my paintjobs to last decades. No need for adhesion promoter, however. Use EPOXY primer & everything will stick better than with adhesion promoter & other primers. (I've been doing custom body & paint for 35+ years). Forget the lights. Chances are you'll hot-spot the parts & cause all kinds of problems. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I *thought* I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
IP: Logged
02:38 AM
Nov 26th, 2006
Mike Murphy Member
Posts: 2251 From: Greencastle, Indiana 46135 Registered: Oct 2001
Thanks for the tips...I've got the flex additive so I might as well use it and the adhesion promoter for the bare panels and bumpers. Getting ready to prime the smc parts today after a little more finish sanding. Later.