The fusible link that powers my passenger side headlight motor is bad. (on my 86 GT)
I used the fusible link/fuse chart in Ogre's cave to get the size I need, which is ".35 Red"

I went to four auto stores and a local Pontiac dealer and got little help. Most of them know little about
fusible links and how to replace them.

I do not want to buy or mess with bulk fusible link wire.
Has anyone replaced theirs? What was the brand and p/n of the fusible link wire? (I prefer pre-cut with crimped ends)
According to what I read the .35 is a metric size. The american equivalent would be 22 gauge.

Thanks, Kit

if you can;t get it sorted out, (I hate fusable links) you can get a waterproof spade fuse holder and put a regular fuse in.
for just the motor, start with 5 amp. I think there are 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 amp sizes. I suspect the 5 or 7.5 would be good for a single motor.

[This message has been edited by tjm4fun (edited 10-16-2006).]

Get some bulk fusible link wire if that's all you can find - the standard length for fusible links in GM products is 9 inches. Get two feet and you can replace both links and have some left over.

The crimp connectors are - well, they're crimp connectors. You've got a box full...

quote Originally posted by Whuffo: Get some bulk fusible link wire if that's all you can find - the standard length for fusible links in GM products is 9 inches. Get two feet and you can replace both links and have some left over. The crimp connectors are - well, they're crimp connectors. You've got a box full...

If I have to buy bulk fusible link wire to get the job done, I will do it. So then, 22 gauge is the correct size to buy? It might be a little tough to find that size as most auto stores carry only 12/14/16 gauge fusible link wire...

Kit

Wouldn`t they carry that stuff at any electronic stores, or stereo shops?

I had a hell of time finding fusible link as well, the GM dealer parts guy had no clue what a fusible link was. I went to a local auto store and they carried it, but wasn't the right size. I ended up just putting a weather-proof spade fuse holder in like tjm4fun has suggested above. But with a in-line fuse you could end up burning it out if more current is drawn from the initial start of the equipment it's protecting. I have been very lucky that mine never blew.

IIRC the link should always be 4 gauges smaller than the wire it's trying to protect.

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You can find all you want at your local salvage yard and cut the wire any size you need.

quote Originally posted by Derek2M6: I ended up just putting a weather-proof spade fuse holder in like tjm4fun has suggested above. But with a in-line fuse you could end up burning it out if more current is drawn from the initial start of the equipment it's protecting.

If you use an inline holder which accepts cylindrical glass fuses, you should be able to find a "slow blow" fuse of the desired amperage. A slow blow fuse will be closer in behavior to a fuseable link than a standard fuse will (i.e. they can survive a short duration current spike).

What Dguy said... use a glass slow blow fuse. Fuseable links have been known to start fires when they go. Just find out what the link is supposed to protect add up the currrent draw of the components and match the fuse. check out "Ron Francis wiring" he has all kinds of cool stuff.

Some good information about fusible links is located here. A Maxi fuse in a waterproof holder is a more modern replacement for a fusible link.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 10-17-2006).]