I saw someone mentioned in an old thread that Summit has a high output SI Alternator for like $160. I also know I can upgarde to a CS without too much trouble. My alternator isn't charging my battery anymore so I really have
4 choices.

1. Use the old one I have in my basement which is FREE.
2. Buy a direct replacement for an 87 2.8 motor (on an 88 body).
3. Buy a hi output SI for big bucks.
4. Buy a CS alt and swap it in.

So what all is needed to use a CS alternator? Just cut replace the wiring connector? Would it even save me much money for the effort compared to buying a hi output SI?

I don't know the complete answer to your question, but I just put a high output CS on my 88 and I love it. Puts out 80 amps at idle with a max of 140 amps. Doesn't require that cooling tube either. Given the harsh environment that the Fiero alternator lives in, I suggest the upgrade.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: I don't know the complete answer to your question, but I just put a high output CS on my 88 and I love it. Puts out 80 amps at idle with a max of 140 amps. Doesn't require that cooling tube either. Given the harsh environment that the Fiero alternator lives in, I suggest the upgrade.

I just called Advance auto, they have 140 amp units for $2?? + tax. Or you can get a 94 amp reman for $69. I don't know, I'm pretty broke. I might just go stock, unless the CS can be had just as cheap.

I think I'd get the spare one in the basement tested and if it works, I'd use that. I'm really cheap. Maybe do a quick freshening up--see next paragraph.

Both my 88's have the CS type, I guess (they are smaller than the one in the 86.) I once tried taking an 88 4cyl alternator apart to repair the guts--and had no luck. I don't think they're easily rebuilt. If your current alternator is just not charging, you may be able to get by with a new set of carbon block brushes, a new diode pack, and new internal regulator. And the old style are very easy to work on. You should be able to do all this for $25 or less (Autozone's kit is $19,95 or so.)

Forgive my ignorance and somewhat of a hijack, but what does CS stand for?(I am only asking because I will soon be in the market for an Alternator myself)..

Thanks!!

I used the alternator from the p30 box van. Brand new was only about $130 and its worked great so far.

quote Originally posted by VermontFiero: Forgive my ignorance and somewhat of a hijack, but what does CS stand for?(I am only asking because I will soon be in the market for an Alternator myself).. Thanks!!

CS just stands for "Charging System". It's usually followed by a number like "130" which indicates the stator diameter in millimeters.

The SI designation means "Systems Integrated" (the regulator is a integral part of the alternator).

quote Originally posted by spark1: CS just stands for "Charging System". .. SI designation means "Systems Integrated"

Wow, what incredibly descriptive acronyms...what are the newest ones called, SMT - "Spinning Metal Thingies" [/sarcasm]

quote Originally posted by connecticutFIERO: So what all is needed to use a CS alternator? Just cut replace the wiring connector? Would it even save me much money for the effort compared to buying a hi output SI?

Page 2
http://home.coastalnow.net/~brent1/csalt.htm

So this upgrade is for 2.5's only?

Also, would it rob more hp?

I recomend conversion whenever possible. If you happen to have a working spare SI, then by all means go ahead and use that but if you want more output, go to CS130. (See the CS article in my cave for some more notes.)

The 2.5, 2.8, and just about anything else using an SI can be converted to a CS. Even other makes of cars are often converted to one of the CS units rather than fight with obsolite and/or expensive rare parts. This is a good option for anyone that is not showing a car in very strict factory classes.

Electrically the process is pretty much the same for all conversions.

Mechanically the CS cases can usually be bolted directly in place of an SI. (You may have to change the pulley. Do that carefully or you can ruin the CS.) The trick is finding the right head end on the case. If your car uses additional braces, common on some Seprent belted engines, you may have to fab some new ones.

I always recomend people install the 105 amp CS unless you have a real need for more power. This unit is already overkill for allot of cars. If you go to a higher output one, make sure that you have enough clearance for any external changes like an Iceberg rear shell or external diode set used on some.

Generally the CS units use less HP than an equivalent SI unit. This is in part to a lower mass in the rotor and tighter clearance between the rotor and stator. The lower rotor mass is easier to spin. The tighter clearance increases efficiency of the unit.

quote Originally posted by theogre: I recomend conversion whenever possible. If you happen to have a working spare SI, then by all means go ahead and use that but if you want more output, go to CS130. (See the CS article in my cave for some more notes.) The 2.5, 2.8, and just about anything else using an SI can be converted to a CS. Even other makes of cars are often converted to one of the CS units rather than fight with obsolite and/or expensive rare parts. This is a good option for anyone that is not showing a car in very strict factory classes. Electrically the process is pretty much the same for all conversions. Mechanically the CS cases can usually be bolted directly in place of an SI. (You may have to change the pulley. Do that carefully or you can ruin the CS.) The trick is finding the right head end on the case. If your car uses additional braces, common on some Seprent belted engines, you may have to fab some new ones. I always recomend people install the 105 amp CS unless you have a real need for more power. This unit is already overkill for allot of cars. If you go to a higher output one, make sure that you have enough clearance for any external changes like an Iceberg rear shell or external diode set used on some. Generally the CS units use less HP than an equivalent SI unit. This is in part to a lower mass in the rotor and tighter clearance between the rotor and stator. The lower rotor mass is easier to spin. The tighter clearance increases efficiency of the unit.

Why would the pulley need to be changed? Never heard of swapping pulleys for a CS before. Is it because of the grooves on the pulley? SHould i be using 6 groove?

[This message has been edited by connecticutFIERO (edited 08-07-2006).]

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Wow, what incredibly descriptive acronyms...what are the newest ones called, SMT - "Spinning Metal Thingies" [/sarcasm]

"DBD" designed by doofus?

I went with the complimentary alternator that I had from a previous Fiero. After beating myself up in the 90 degree weather I broke the adjustment bolt into the alternator. The little sucker just had been tightened way too many times because of the infamous self loosening alternator on our Fieros. After removing the alternator that I just installed I got the bolt remnant out with some channel locks and then put it all back together using a handy spare alternator adjustment bolt I had laying about. Everything works great now. No problems. I figure I have at least 2 years on this, then I'll be doing it all over again.

a few of my friends and I have always reffered to each by thier proper acronym based on thier performance :

CS - Cool Sh!t
SI - Sh!!ty Inards

a bit of word play, but trully helps to sort out the two

------------------
Former West Coast Fiero Employee

quote Originally posted by theogre: I always recomend people install the 105 amp CS unless you have a real need for more power.

Why would I not want the most powerful one out there? More power is always better right? They might actually come out with an electric supercharger that works some day and my 140 amp alternator has more reserve power for junk like that.

quote Originally posted by connecticutFIERO: Why would the pulley need to be changed?

So that it matches the drive belt used in your vehicle. Many engines use the same alternator, but not all use the same drive belts. It is not uncommon to purchase an alternator off-the-shelf which either has no pulley, or the wrong pulley for your application.

quote Originally posted by dguy: So that it matches the drive belt used in your vehicle. Many engines use the same alternator, but not all use the same drive belts. It is not uncommon to purchase an alternator off-the-shelf which either has no pulley, or the wrong pulley for your application.

OK that's why there is a 6 groove pulley and what was the other 5? Luckily I had the correct one. I actually planned on doing the CS upgrade but when I called all the part stores I found out I had to wait 3-4 days for it. They only carry the SI versions on the shelf. Being the Monday was the only day I could do the work until next week, I had to go with a new or used SI.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Why would I not want the most powerful one out there? More power is always better right? They might actually come out with an electric supercharger that works some day and my 140 amp alternator has more reserve power for junk like that.

I guess I'm just cheap. But why pay extra for a higher amp alternator than your car needs? The voltage regulator keeps it clamped most of the time so that it doesn't overcharge your battery--if you're not running a bunch of power consuming accessories that draw down the battery, the higher amperage is never used. (The only time the alternator charges full tilt is after using the starter.)

I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for an electric supercharger, either. If it could be done, the automakers would have already done it.

I thought you can rebuild an alternator for around $10 in parts? Send a PM to Whuffo, he knows about this.

quote Originally posted by Brian Lamberts: I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for an electric supercharger, either. If it could be done, the automakers would have already done it.

I'm not holding my breath...but recall that they were about to close the patent office in 1900 because they thought that everything that could possible be invented had already been invented. Some superconducting magnets and pow! It might just work.

Granted, I'm too cheap to waste money on it, mainly cause it sounds to me like a scam, but I remember seeing on ebay a few weeks back some guys selling electric turbochargers that ran off your alternator current. Plastic housings and no exhaust feeds, now yea it only put out like 3-4 lbs of boost maximum if I recall right, and it was like $150, but might be a new direction things are headed in esp given the shift toward hybrid/electric cars. Myself? I'll wait a year or two and keep an eye open in the boneyard to grab one for $5 off some beat to crap civic. Would be interesting to find out if they really did much of anything tho....

quote Originally posted by fierobear: I thought you can rebuild an alternator for around $10 in parts? Send a PM to Whuffo, he knows about this.

Where do you buy parts? $10? Heck the regulator costs that much if not more, then you have diode bridges, brushes, bearings, ect....