ok i know the hard way to chang a water pump in a fiero is jack it up for the back but, what is a much easyer way to do it?

Do you have a V6 or 4 banger? I changed my water pump in my 86SE V6 and it was a pain...no easy way about it unless you drop the cradle. I would assume the 4 banger is easier to do...more room, but I honestly dont know.

Powr

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The V6 changes out the wheel well, yes, the car has to be jacked up unless one can figure out a way to remove the wheel while the cars is still on the ground.

The L4 water pump is easier if you don't have AC, the AC bracket complicates things. Most people have to pull the L4 water pump pulley first to get the water pump itself off, auto parts stores loan the tool to do this. Don't a standard jaw-type puller because it'll just destroy the pulley and still not get it off the pump.

The usual caveats apply here, don't get a pump with a plastic impeller, they always fail prematurely. Cleanliness on the gasket surfaces is critical, when pulling the V6 don't pry the timing cover loose from the block by accident because that's a real PITA to deal with.

JazzMan

yea i do have a 4l beater but its my first car so i don't care to much but just wondering how to fix that the easyest way i can thanks

I did my 88 2.5 last fall. It's a PITA, check out Ogre's Cave, the top line of the Forum, best write up I've found at one site. Then check search ( 2.5 Water Pump ) some threads have some good information, but put your trust in Ogre.

Welcome to the forum.

[This message has been edited by DtheC (edited 06-21-2006).]

I'm doing my water pump now--with my mother-in-law's boyfriend--and I couldn't find anything about the water pump. So here's what we find out--besides it really being a PITA:

I have a new pump w/o the pulley. GET A PUMP WITH A PULLEY!!!! What I have to do now is to take both the new and old pump to a shop to get the pulley swapped, since it's pressed. Tommorrow it's getting done, so I'll tell you how much it's gonna cost me.

But yeah: I looked at Google, the Ogre site...didn't see it...

I changed the waterpump on my '87 V6 from the top. Just removed the battery for better access. Sort of by feel on the lower bolts but not that big of a deal. I got a new pump from Fierostore, iron impeller. You'll need a set of Torx bits, 3 different sizes, can't remember the ones. Stand in the trunk/sit on the engine type of thing, I'm 5'6", your mileage may differ. I found the directions here somewhere, even had a pic of the bolt locations.

Edit: oops, you have a duke, I'm no help there!
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'87 GT, daily driver
'78 Toyota longbed, parts runner
'84 F250 Xcab, BIG parts runner
'87 30' Kit Classic TT, living in it.

[This message has been edited by 87GT_97114 (edited 06-24-2006).]

Here's what i did on my 84:

Drain the block or as much as you can. In the coolent tube running underneath the car on the passenger side there will be a small allen fitting that you can undo to get the water/antifreeze out.

I didn't have the AC belt on so it wasn't in my way. If you have one I think there are 2 bolts to undo to slide the compressor it to get the belt off.

Take the belt off the alt and water pump.

Take the battery out. Much more room to work.

There was a plastic heat sheild protecting some wire that go right next to water pump. Take it off. I think 15mm.

Now for the water pump bolts. I believe they were 13mm and there were 7 of them all around the pump. I was able to get mine off with not too much of a problem. I used a wrench as i couldn't get a socket on the bolts with the pully in the way.

Then i used a hammer and a big flathead screwdriver to seperate the water pump from the block. There is a lip or something on top of the water pump to strike against to seperate them. Might have something under the car to catch what you didn't drain. I had some water/antifreeze come out. I was able to take the pump out through the top.

Clean the area where the block and the pump meet real good.

Now, start your bolts in your new/remanufacuted water pump with the new gasket on it. Try to line it up where it goes and finger tight the bolts. After you do that then get your 13mm wrench and start on the bolts starting from the top. I worked on each bolt a little then went to the next bolt so it would line up good on the block. I got it what i thought was nice and snug and put everything back on it(belt, battery, and plastic sheild) and filled it up with water. It leaked some when it had pressure against it. I had to take the belt, batter and shield out and resnug the bolts up. After that it didn't leak anymore. Thats what i did anyway. Saved me from having to pay someone else to do it. Hope this helps.

Josh
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"I reject your reality, and substitute my own."
Adam Savage

[This message has been edited by ly41181 (edited 06-24-2006).]

for real tech answers visit www.realfierotech.com

quote Originally posted by ly41181: Here's what i did on my 84: Drain the block or as much as you can. In the coolent tube running underneath the car on the passenger side there will be a small allen fitting that you can undo to get the water/antifreeze out. I didn't have the AC belt on so it wasn't in my way. If you have one I think there are 2 bolts to undo to slide the compressor it to get the belt off. Take the belt off the alt and water pump. Take the battery out. Much more room to work. There was a plastic heat sheild protecting some wire that go right next to water pump. Take it off. I think 15mm. Now for the water pump bolts. I believe they were 13mm and there were 7 of them all around the pump. I was able to get mine off with not too much of a problem. I used a wrench as i couldn't get a socket on the bolts with the pully in the way. Then i used a hammer and a big flathead screwdriver to seperate the water pump from the block. There is a lip or something on top of the water pump to strike against to seperate them. Might have something under the car to catch what you didn't drain. I had some water/antifreeze come out. I was able to take the pump out through the top. Clean the area where the block and the pump meet real good. Now, start your bolts in your new/remanufacuted water pump with the new gasket on it. Try to line it up where it goes and finger tight the bolts. After you do that then get your 13mm wrench and start on the bolts starting from the top. I worked on each bolt a little then went to the next bolt so it would line up good on the block. I got it what i thought was nice and snug and put everything back on it(belt, battery, and plastic sheild) and filled it up with water. It leaked some when it had pressure against it. I had to take the belt, batter and shield out and resnug the bolts up. After that it didn't leak anymore. Thats what i did anyway. Saved me from having to pay someone else to do it. Hope this helps. Josh

And fortunately your new water pump had it's own pulley, right? or could you take it off on the '84...I don't remember. That's why I made my last post...it's gonna cost me extra money off to pull the pulley off the old one and put it on the new one.

quote Originally posted by GDS-1: And fortunately your new water pump had it's own pulley, right? or could you take it off on the '84...I don't remember. That's why I made my last post...it's gonna cost me extra money off to pull the pulley off the old one and put it on the new one.

Oh yea, forgot to say that my rebuilt one had a pully on it. At O'reilys, it was just a few dollars more with the pully already on it.

Josh

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"I reject your reality, and substitute my own."
Adam Savage

OK, question....and pardon me if I don't be all technical but this is GDS' wife posting for him.

The car was over heating and we were told several months ago that it needed a water pump. OK so at the same time the valve cover gasket blew. He changed the valve cover gasket, ran the car for about 10 minutes on 2 occasions and it didn't overheat or anything. So now the water pump has been changed and a new thermostat was put in.....started the car, ran it for under 5 minutes and the gauges show over heating. Disconnected battery and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Reconnected battery and checked everything else. Ran it for about 10 minutes and no overheating however there is a small amount of smoke coming from area of valve cover and there is exhaust/smoke coming from tailpip along with small drips of water/coolant.
He is now taking it for a small 5-10 mile test drive to see how it runs....I just don't want to see him take it 25 miles to work and have it break down.

So my questions are:
Is this normal and could is just be burning off excess oil from valve cover gasket change?

Suggestions? Ideas?


*edit* He drove it last night and it doens't appear to be smoking anymore. Still would like some feedback though if anyone has an opinion.
Thanks!

[This message has been edited by GDS-1 (edited 06-28-2006).]