OK, so my problem currently is that the reverse light doesn't stay on when shifting into reverse.

The car is an 86GT manual 4spd.

To explain it a bit better (and I did do a search which only showed one thread with related info and no real solution), when I pull the gear shift all the way to the left and push up the reverse lights come on. This is not the problem, it's from this point that I think there is a problem. Once I take my hand off of the stick, it clicks back to the right a bit and that lets off of the reverse lights switch.

To make it even easier to understand, here is a video of it happening.

Gear shift messing up video

On a side note, it's a bit tough to get the gear shift to come over, is there any way to make it a bit smoother/easier?

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88 Fastback GT
My blog: www.sti-media.com/blog/

quote Originally posted by Ultimate: OK, so my problem currently is that the reverse light doesn't stay on when shifting into reverse. The car is an 86GT manual 4spd. To explain it a bit better (and I did do a search which only showed one thread with related info and no real solution), when I pull the gear shift all the way to the left and push up the reverse lights come on. This is not the problem, it's from this point that I think there is a problem. Once I take my hand off of the stick, it clicks back to the right a bit and that lets off of the reverse lights switch. To make it even easier to understand, here is a video of it happening. Gear shift messing up video On a side note, it's a bit tough to get the gear shift to come over, is there any way to make it a bit smoother/easier?

I have the same problem with my 4-speed. There is a switch that is pushed in by the bracket when you shft into reverse, on the end of that switch is a screw. You have to take the switch off and turn the screw out, this should allow the bracket to keep the switch in.

I'll see if I have a picture in my archives of it.

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Right, that screw is in the video too, it just seems odd that it clicks back so far that it comes right off of the screw. It's already quite far out and I'm a bit worried it will get driven in too far in when I pull the stick over to the left to get it into reverse.

Thanks for the reply though.

Yeah the problem is a simple one...just remove the shifter pannel (with the ash tray). Look closely when you move your shifter in the reverse position, you will see on the shift linkage a little switch that came in contact with a little "flag" or "braquet". Release the stick and you will see that the switch is no longer in contact. Just readjust the gap with the switch so the switch stay activated even when your hands are off the shifter.

There's an adjustable indent bracket on the shifter that pushes against a ball to hold the shifter over when you put it in reverse. There is a spring pushing the shifter back towards the 1 gear position. After a while the indent bracket isn't able to hold the shifter all the way to the right or even far enough to close the backup light switch. There may be a sweet spot between the indent, the spring and the switch adjustments but I haven't found it yet.

[This message has been edited by Fierari (edited 06-13-2006).]

quote Originally posted by perry rhodan: Yeah the problem is a simple one...just remove the shifter pannel (with the ash tray). Look closely when you move your shifter in the reverse position, you will see on the shift linkage a little switch that came in contact with a little "flag" or "braquet". Release the stick and you will see that the switch is no longer in contact. Just readjust the gap with the switch so the switch stay activated even when your hands are off the shifter.

Thanks for the reply.. but that is already obvious in the video I linked to.

quote Originally posted by Fierari: There's an adjustable indent bracket on the shifter that pushes against a ball to hold the shifter over when you put it in reverse. There is a spring pushing the shifter back towards the 1 gear position. After a while the indent bracket isn't able to hold the shifter all the way to the right or even far enough to close the backup light switch. There may be a sweet spot between the indent, the spring and the switch adjustments but I haven't found it yet.

That's what I was curious about. Is this adjustable then? Does a new part need to be put in? Anybody else with info on this particular part?

Sorry I didnt look at your video before replying...

I agree with Fierari for the solution to your problem. I had the same thing also on mine.


The braket is momewhat adjustable...you have to rotate it a little (in the driver side direction) so the roller can pass the first bump of the braquet and be able to reach the slope after the bump. Rotate it just enough. Ifyou rotate it too much you will *maybe* affect your first and second gear engagement because the braket will bump stop on the roller before the shifting cable have fully engaged. Like Fierari said, just find the "sweet" spot.

[This message has been edited by perry rhodan (edited 06-13-2006).]

No worries What did you do about it? Did you solve the problem by messing with that part?

Just look at my precedent post...I've put some instructions to my reply....

Yes it take away the problem for some years. Know it look I will have to adjust it againt soon. I've just returned from the garage to see that the braket is at full adjustment...no more for me. The braket looks too worn now.

Look carefully where the 10mm head of the braket retaining bolt is...you will see "ajustment" notches (maybe more gripping notches than adjustment nothces) . Take them for reference.

Hope this help. If it dont work, maybe your braket is too worn like mine.

[This message has been edited by perry rhodan (edited 06-13-2006).]

when I had my 86, I had this problem also.
my solution was to install a new switch setup, using a microswitch and an actuator arm, and setting it to be activated.
required a bit of fabrication, but it solved the problem.
I'll see if I can hunt down some pics of the stuff I used.
the switch was something like this one:
http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/datasheet.asp?FAM=basicswitches&ITEMLIST=271415,271421,271424,271426,271427,271429,271432,271433,271448,271363,271364,271367,271370,271371,2713 74,271380,271382,271384&P=307,251,266,259,359&CURRITM=0

Yeah, I have to readjust the bracket about every 6 months or when I get annoyed at it enough. It seems to rotate itself with use. I'm afraid of messing up the threads on the bolt or the shifter frame if I tighten it too much. If I was more enterprising I would do something about the spring - it's just too strong for the purpose - but you have to pretty much disassemble the shifter to tweak it.

[This message has been edited by Fierari (edited 06-13-2006).]

Thanks everybody for the replies

So, with all the troubleshooting points everybody gave me I've discovered what the problem was.

1. The gear shift setting on where it goes up over the little wheel thingy on the bracket needed a bit of adjusting to make it easier to move. Messing with this determines also how far it will push the pin in for the switch. I set mine up just over half way to being fully to the left.

2. The switch had carbon build up on one side. I figured this out because as I was pushing the pin in for the switch, if I moved the pin to the left or right (while it was in) the lights would turn on and off. This meant that inside the switch was either broken or worn or something. Opening it up found that on one side the contacts for the switch had carbon build up. This is most likely because the gear shift actually pushes the pin more to the left, meaning the right side gets a bad contact. Meaning perhaps a small spark, meaning carbon build up. After 20 years it got reasonably black. Cleaning that off and putting the switch back in with some minor adjusting of the screw fixed everything.

All is good I hope my troubleshooting there helps somebody else with the same problem down the road.

Thanks again for the replies, I most likely wouldn't have looked where I did so soon without them.

I had the same problem, and I even purchased a replacement shift light actuator. Actually, the problem was remedied when a transmission tech adjusted the trans cables at the point they connect in the engine bay. it seems the plastic erodes over time, and the contacts (or whatever they're called) have to be rotated.