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Trunk lid (Engin Cover) Won't Stay up by Mr.Chipps
Started on: 04-19-2006 07:32 PM
Replies: 11
Last post by: Brian Lamberts on 04-23-2006 02:27 AM
Mr.Chipps
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Report this Post04-19-2006 07:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.ChippsSend a Private Message to Mr.ChippsDirect Link to This Post
1987 Fiero L4 Coupe

1. My Trunk lid (Engin Cover) Won't Stay up. It doesn't look like a piston assembly, I'm guessing springs. Is there an adjustment, or are they just worn out? What's the fix? Do you still call it the trunk lid or is it the hood? Hmmmm

2. The drivers side door rattles on the latching pin. Is there any adjustment, to keep it from rattling?

Thanks

Hager

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Jax184
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Report this Post04-19-2006 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jax184Click Here to visit Jax184's HomePageSend a Private Message to Jax184Direct Link to This Post
The rear hood-like thing is called the Decklid. It's held up by a spring assembly, and can be adjusted to one of three positions. The different positions are there for the different weight decklids, say if they have a spoiler or not.
If you search the archives, you'll find a thread or two about safely changing it from one setting to another.
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Mr.Chipps
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Report this Post04-19-2006 07:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.ChippsSend a Private Message to Mr.ChippsDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jax184:

The rear hood-like thing is called the Decklid. It's held up by a spring assembly, and can be adjusted to one of three positions. The different positions are there for the different weight decklids, say if they have a spoiler or not.
If you search the archives, you'll find a thread or two about safely changing it from one setting to another.

I searched about everything but "Decklid" I'll give it a shot.

Thanks

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Mr.Chipps
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Report this Post04-19-2006 07:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.ChippsSend a Private Message to Mr.ChippsDirect Link to This Post

Mr.Chipps

243 posts
Member since Apr 2006
EUREKA

Here is a plan that will work for me.

I tied a strap to the "U" bend bracket and to a tree.
Car in neutral and pushed forward about 4 inches then into park.
Inserted the pin into the next hole and repeated the process for the other side.
Took all of 10 minutes.

I'll give it a try.

Thanks
Hager

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tharvey
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Report this Post04-19-2006 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tharveySend a Private Message to tharveyDirect Link to This Post
I just did this with some friends of mine. There is actually 3 different tension bars and each of them have three settings on each side of the bar.

If you get get a belt or chain come along or ratching belt assembly you should be able to do it fairly easy.

I drove onto the street
placed vehicle in park with safety brake engaged
attached chain to wooden street light and atteched other end to tension rod on the firewall side of the thesion bar,

If you are standing at rear of vehicle looking at the firewall the two hinge bar face each other and are adjustable by removing the steel retainer stud which looks like a large nail. The majority of them I have seen have the stud in the center position, If you readjust the stud towards the firewall the tension is lessened and if you move the stud towards the rear or trunk then the tension increases.

Once tightening device or come along is properly secured start ratchating the come along or device to slowly pull the tension towards the rear, as you do this the stud or oversize nail will become loose and simply pull outwards.

Apply enough tension slowly to pull the bar rearwards to enable the pin to be placed in the rear hole or the hole closest to the trunk

Slowly let off tension or ratcheting device or comealong and do the same for the other side of the trunk hinge.

I cannot stress enough that these bars are tension bars or torsion bars, they get their spring effect by the more the pressure on them to move the trunk lid upwards. Use extreme caution when dealing with them otherwise you will kiss you back window good bye and maybe even some body parts if they become loose.

With proper care and respect for the sheer force involved it really was not that hard.

Actually "watts" did the work while I supervised and held the chain high enough so we had a direct unobstructed path downwards to put tension from the ratcheting come along.

Tim

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Mr.Chipps
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Report this Post04-21-2006 01:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.ChippsSend a Private Message to Mr.ChippsDirect Link to This Post
There are three holes in a raised portion of the bracket, it was already in the hole as shown in the photo.

Got out the old ratcheting puller and sucessfully pulled the torsion bar all the way to the back. However the "Nail" would not go in the next hole to the right and up a little from the group of three. Looked in the hole and the torsion bar was totally blocking it.

So my conclusion is that it is allready in the extreme hole.

What next?? Take the torsion bar out and tweak it some so it has more upward force??

Paint the broomstick a matching color to the car??

Go with a litt piston

Any suggestions??

[This message has been edited by Mr.Chipps (edited 04-21-2006).]

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fieroman_5000
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Report this Post04-21-2006 01:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroman_5000Send a Private Message to fieroman_5000Direct Link to This Post
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avengador1
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Report this Post04-21-2006 01:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for avengador1Send a Private Message to avengador1Direct Link to This Post
If adjusting the torsion bars doesn't help keep your decklid up, you can get a deck lid strut from www.rodneydickman.com
Here is a link showing how to adjust the bars.https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20040223-2-043677.html

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 04-21-2006).]

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Mr.Chipps
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Report this Post04-21-2006 04:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.ChippsSend a Private Message to Mr.ChippsDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroman_5000:

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/072713.html


This looks like my best bet, and the price is right.
Thanks
Hager
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reinhart
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Report this Post04-21-2006 06:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for reinhartSend a Private Message to reinhartDirect Link to This Post
Dude you have the wrong torsion rods probably. Do you have D80 on your option codes? If not your spoiler was probably added later and the non-decklid spoiler springs were not replaced with the spoiler decklid springs. They are color coded but I forget which ones are the heaviest...I believe it is the white one. You used to be able to buy them from GM a few years back but don't know if available anymore.
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Mr.Chipps
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Report this Post04-22-2006 12:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.ChippsSend a Private Message to Mr.ChippsDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by reinhart:

Dude you have the wrong torsion rods probably. Do you have D80 on your option codes? If not your spoiler was probably added later and the non-decklid spoiler springs were not replaced with the spoiler decklid springs. They are color coded but I forget which ones are the heaviest...I believe it is the white one. You used to be able to buy them from GM a few years back but don't know if available anymore.


Well I'm getting smarter every day thanks to this Forum.

My VIN number is 1G2PE11R5HP233575.

It has a Spoiler.

And the torsion bars are RED.

Possibly the torsion bars are wrong.

Anyone Know what color they should be with a spoiler?

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Brian Lamberts
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Report this Post04-23-2006 02:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Brian LambertsSend a Private Message to Brian LambertsDirect Link to This Post
From the online service guide (google fiero online service guide OSG)

Decklid tension springs
General Information

There is three different springs. They are color coded red, white or blue.

Red = plain
White = Spoiler (D80)
Blue = Luggage carrier (V56)

1984-88 ROD, rear compartment (red) 20569435 LH $11.20
1984-88 ROD, rear compartment (red) 20569434 RH $11.20

1985-88 ROD, rear compartment (white) 20380984 RH N.L.
1985-88 ROD, rear compartment (white) 20380985 LH N.L.

1984-88 ROD, rear compartment (blue) 20355088 RH $11.20
1984-88 ROD, rear compartment (blue) 20355089 LH $ 9.50

I 'll have a set of white torsion springs (for wing) in a day or so for $25 shipped

[This message has been edited by Brian Lamberts (edited 04-23-2006).]

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