New problem before I hit the road, When I bought this Fiero last summer the needle pointer for the temp guage was lying in the guage cluster. without thinking I just stuck it back on before I had the car running and tested. So now the temp guage starts althe way over by the little flag and only moves close to the 100 degree mark during like dring around the block a few times and sitting in the driveway. I know it was a little cold out last night, so last night might not have been the best to test the guage. Do I need to take the needle off and start the engine just to place the needle back on at the 100 degree mark or less???? or what

With engine cold and ignition switch on (but engine not running) Place the needle on 100. When you turn off the ignition the needle will go to the left toward the flag and when you turn on the ignition switch, then the needle will go to 100. Make sure the coolant is cold or been sitting over night.
Don

Thanks, I'll do that tonight beforeI run it around town

You might want to think about doing the temperature gauge fix to help prevent the needle from falling off or slipping in the future
Using the webpage below, I ended up splicing in more wire to the wires at the gauges as I did not see an easy way to wiitch them without doing this.

http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html

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1988 Fiero GT

http://www3.telus.net/1988_Fiero_GT/1988_FIERO_GT.html

quote Originally posted by Daniel: You might want to think about doing the temperature gauge fix to help prevent the needle from falling off or slipping in the future Using the webpage below, I ended up splicing in more wire to the wires at the gauges as I did not see an easy way to wiitch them without doing this. http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html

thanks, this will be something I can look into getting done tonight.

You're welcome

quote Originally posted by Daniel: You might want to think about doing the temperature gauge fix to help prevent the needle from falling off or slipping in the future Using the webpage below, I ended up splicing in more wire to the wires at the gauges as I did not see an easy way to wiitch them without doing this. http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html

Thanks, worked like a charm, now I get the test light for the temp gage and now the gage performs.... thanks for the info, now I just have to get it hot enough to kick the fan on and make sure that relay is working good.

Do you have A/C. If you do, when you turn on the AC the fan should run. That will test the relay the same as the temp switch would. Would not test the temp switch itself however...

quote Originally posted by Dodgerunner: Do you have A/C. If you do, when you turn on the AC the fan should run. That will test the relay the same as the temp switch would. Would not test the temp switch itself however...

I forgot all about that last night.

quote Originally posted by Daniel: You might want to think about doing the temperature gauge fix to help prevent the needle from falling off or slipping in the future Using the webpage below, I ended up splicing in more wire to the wires at the gauges as I did not see an easy way to wiitch them without doing this. http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html

I thought everything was ok last the other night so I took it out on the road..... hmmmm the temp light stayed on the whole time while the temp guage didn't move from 100, oh also the blinker indicator was so faint I could hardly tell it was blinking plus I got the same thing from my high beam indicator and tach. They all pulsed when I had the blinkers on. So I changed the leads back (#11 and #13) and I can hear and see the needle max out and pop back to 100 and then after driving it it starts to move up. not far enough to kick on the rad fan but enough. Turned on the AC to check the fan relay and the fan and rear blower kicked on. So what next with that mod for the temp guage seemed like it didn't want to work. oh also changed the sensor leads as well....

HI, I went through fooling with all this about 2 years ago, I think I messed up the needle or ?? I just ended up buying a used temp gauge from ebay ... Still working fine.....

Did you switch the wires at the back, on the temperature switch as well?
The wires switch 11 on one side with 13 on the other side, I have heard of people switching 11 and 13 in the same connector, this does not work.

To test the swap, with the ignition on, i grounded one of the back pins at a time, one will turn on the temperature light, the other will peg the needle.
I suspect the needle fell off do to loosening up from pegging.

I did this fix a few weeks ago, but my car is parked for storage.
However when i turn the key to ignition, the light does not glow untill i turn the key to start the car. I dont know if the gauge reads accuratley yet, and will not for another month.

Hope this helps.

Almost sounds like you switch the wrong wires. Like the others said. you have to flip the wires on the sensor in back and then the 11 and 13 switch from the right and left plugs on the dash. I can't remember which was in which plug. I followed what the post said to do it but I used the schematic to identify the wires and connectors as reference to the post so it all made since...

I did mine as soon as I brought the car home but that was two years ago so I don't rememeber which was which.

You just have to have it all clear in your mind before you start.

Sounds like you got a wrong 13 or 11 since those #'s probably exist in both plugs.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 03-17-2006).]

All you got to do to keep the needle from hanging, is if you will look real close it hangs on a piece of the dash foam at the top of the dash. just cut this away and you do not have to do any re-wiring,
Don

That maybe true but it's what you want or like.

I don't think it is right that the gauge should peg everytime you turn the key. Just like the smooth function the fix gets you.

Makes it like it should have been from the factory not what they where to lazy to correct on the line.

quote Originally posted by Dodgerunner: That maybe true but it's what you want or like. I don't think it is right that the gauge should peg everytime you turn the key. Just like the smooth function the fix gets you. Makes it like it should have been from the factory not what they where to lazy to correct on the line.

I agree with you 100% They screwed the oil gauge up the same way. If you remove the connector ,
it pegs like the temp gauge. It takes the twelve volts to bring it back to zero, then as the oil presure builds up the resistance increase and the voltage drops and needle goes to the right.
Don

OK I switched the #11 and #13 on the same connector....so I need to take one from one and one from the other.....hmmmm I'll look that up on that link you sent and try again...
Thanks, guys
also found a good aero bumper, decklid grills, and caliper spring at the scrapyard. Just picked em up, that'll give me somethin to do tonight.

Ok switched the #11 from the left side connector and jumped it over to the right hand #13 connector and vice versa. Works great, temp gage is working nicely. The trip was about 21 mile one way and didn't experience any problems but a slight knock under the front right floor board thinking maybe just needs new bushings on the sway bar. It was a little loose on the freeway not sure what is causing that. Maybe needs rear struts/shocks..... anyhow didn;t getto drive it in to work this morning, expecting ice and snow this afternoon.
Thanks for all your help..