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side molding painting by wanobi
Started on: 03-13-2006 10:24 PM
Replies: 15
Last post by: tampalinc on 03-15-2006 01:50 AM
wanobi
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Report this Post03-13-2006 10:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wanobiSend a Private Message to wanobiDirect Link to This Post
Ok, When I got my car, it was painted yellow, even the molding. I want the molding black. Can anyone tell me if I can use rattle cans to paint them and it come out decent.

I'll take the molding off of the car first, sand them smooth anything else I should do?


I like my car yellow just not the trim

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DtheC
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Report this Post03-13-2006 10:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DtheCSend a Private Message to DtheCDirect Link to This Post
You might have problems if the car was painted with the moldings on. It might be near imposible to get the mouldings off intact, if they were. There were two styles, ribed and smooth, check price and availability of replacement moldings if they 'come off' wrong.
Count on replacing some of the mounting clips, IMHO you will end up breaking a couple. Clips are fairly easy to come by.
Good luck.
Dave

[This message has been edited by DtheC (edited 03-13-2006).]

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86SE
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Report this Post03-13-2006 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86SESend a Private Message to 86SEDirect Link to This Post
As far as rattle can painting goes, I would not reccommend it. You can sure make it look good, but it wont hold up with time. But you might be able to find a good 'ratle can' clear coat that might help protect the color.

------------------

'86 SE Fiero -- Loose front end, bad ball joints/tierods (inner/outer), tight rear brakes, TH125C needs rebuilt, #4 cam bearing tight (real tight), headlight issues, headliner sagging, passenger seat destroyed AND im ready to pull the motor again and change that damn cam bearing cuz I lover her!

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Dodgerunner
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Report this Post03-13-2006 11:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
While rattle can paint will work the durability of it is not as good. To get a good stick to the paint it really helps to force the paint in more with a pressure sprayer.

But that's my Op.

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wanobi
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Report this Post03-13-2006 11:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wanobiSend a Private Message to wanobiDirect Link to This Post
would it be possible to sand it back to its base color which should be black and then buff it smooth?


I'm guessing that it would take alot of sanding.

or is it not possible to make it look good?

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Fiero_Adam
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Report this Post03-13-2006 11:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero_AdamSend a Private Message to Fiero_AdamDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wanobi:

would it be possible to sand it back to its base color which should be black and then buff it smooth?


I'm guessing that it would take alot of sanding.

or is it not possible to make it look good?

Yes, this would work since the plastic is molded black. I'd sand all (or at least most of) the old paint off with 180 grit. Then 400, 600, and maybe even 1000. Buff it out with a plastic polish of some kind. It should shine up really nice. I would get a small buffing wheel, as buffing by hand will take forever, and it may not even shine up as well.
Sounds like a lot to do, but it's not really. Plus you won't have to worry about paint chipping off if you bumped something.

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wanobi
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Report this Post03-14-2006 12:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wanobiSend a Private Message to wanobiDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero_Adam:


Yes, this would work since the plastic is molded black. I'd sand all (or at least most of) the old paint off with 180 grit. Then 400, 600, and maybe even 1000. Buff it out with a plastic polish of some kind. It should shine up really nice. I would get a small buffing wheel, as buffing by hand will take forever, and it may not even shine up as well.
Sounds like a lot to do, but it's not really. Plus you won't have to worry about paint chipping off if you bumped something.

excellent. I was thinking that it was molded black but wasnt for sure..

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countach711
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Report this Post03-14-2006 12:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for countach711Click Here to visit countach711's HomePageSend a Private Message to countach711Direct Link to This Post
if you can get them off without chipping the paint, and the paint is on there good, I would just repaint them black. Or you could just replace them,,,,
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Fieroking
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Report this Post03-14-2006 12:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierokingClick Here to visit Fieroking's HomePageSend a Private Message to FierokingDirect Link to This Post
I would recommend that you replace all the side moldings as they do come off, However you will need to sand then paint the front and rear bumpers as the moldings are part of the bumpers.

Good Luck
Joe Sokol

------------------
85 SE 2.8 - beater coupe-
86 SE 3.4 -in progress 3800 II SC -
88 Formula GT 4.9 5 speed beast
Enough parts outside for another one
-And a 3.4 push rod for sale in the mall Go and look-

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jscott1
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Report this Post03-14-2006 12:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fieroking:

I would recommend that you replace all the side moldings as they do come off, However you will need to sand then paint the front and rear bumpers as the moldings are part of the bumpers.

Correct, the molding on the fascias is actually a part of the fascia and is inseparable. So you are going to have to sand or repaint either way. I vote re-painting over all that sanding. Or just smooth off the molding altogether.

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wanobi
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Report this Post03-14-2006 10:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wanobiSend a Private Message to wanobiDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jscott1:


Correct, the molding on the fascias is actually a part of the fascia and is inseparable. So you are going to have to sand or repaint either way. I vote re-painting over all that sanding. Or just smooth off the molding altogether.

I have put some thought into that as well. But alas, I have no fiberglassing skills, so I'm afraid the body shop will require my first and possibly 2nd borne to complete the task and the paint the car.

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tharvey
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Report this Post03-14-2006 01:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tharveySend a Private Message to tharveyDirect Link to This Post
I just did this to the round/smooth rear turn signals.

I went to the locat automotive store and purchased "SEM" trim and molding paint. It was 12.00 for a large spray can which was self leveling and priming. It is designed for exact molding color and is self etching/priming for plastics.

I sanded down the plastic with 400, taped the reflector and gave the front and rear two coats of the paint.

I cannot see any difference between the factory and the painted. It comes out as an extremely smooth flat black paint which almost looks like a semi-gloss but has absolutely no shine.

The same paint is also made in "no name" under the "pro form" name. Code number is pf 543 and is called Trim Black. It is a 15 oz can as compared to the "sem" 12 oz can and costs the same. One can should do all the moldings.

So far I have done 2 sets of round lights and will be doing the mirrors and rear trunk vents. It clearly states on the instructions that it is for flexable plastic moldings and bumpers, and can also be used for stainless and aluminum without any primer.

The upc code on the can is "6 24214 0054 1" They also have a 1-800 number for info and advice which is 1-800-387-7961.

Hope this helps

tim

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tharvey
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Report this Post03-14-2006 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tharveySend a Private Message to tharveyDirect Link to This Post

tharvey

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Oh one more thing.

The moldings are in fact solid color throughout, I just cut a couple of scraps with my band saw to verify.

However the turn signals are clear painted plastic and when sanded will come out clear, paint is applied on the front and rear of these. I guess this is how the light is spread throughout the turn signals.

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DtheC
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Report this Post03-15-2006 12:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DtheCSend a Private Message to DtheCDirect Link to This Post
tharvey you have a PM

[This message has been edited by DtheC (edited 03-15-2006).]

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3800superfast
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Report this Post03-15-2006 01:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 3800superfastSend a Private Message to 3800superfastDirect Link to This Post
Auto Zone offers a high temp engine paint that is a universal black--you want the low gloss black # 1364 Iv`e built 3 conversions using it , the trick to getting the oem look is to compound and glaze the molding, then just stay on top of it --as you would the rest of the car. Hope this helps some...
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tampalinc
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Report this Post03-15-2006 01:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tampalincSend a Private Message to tampalincDirect Link to This Post
The ribbed moldings on my car had been painted white. I haven’t found a source for replacement ribbed molding, so I have been trying to figure out the best way to get the old paint off and get them looking new again. Trying to sand them sounds like a complete nightmare.

[This message has been edited by tampalinc (edited 03-15-2006).]

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