I just cant figure it out!? I change the spark plugs, the distrubtor cap (spelling), wires a year a ago and it would idle down and stop when the car was stop. so then I change the fuel pump, put in a new fuel filter blow the fuel lines out, change the IAC, and breather thing on top of the valve cover that the air filter sits on. Drove it today and it still dies when come to a stop.....I need some help on this one...

also when I come to a stop the car pulls hard to the right side and when I accerlate it feels like the calper is stuck close and the car fills wobbly, I've seen a little bit of smoke coming from the rotor or maybe the pad but after a few minutes it feels fine. could the rotor be warped due to the tempator being place on it or is the caliper sticking I am pulling it apart today to see

First issue, don't know.

Second issue, sounds like the caliper is sticking. If you have to replace the caliper, go ahead and replace the pads and rotors.

I am assuming this is an automatic transmission. If it is it sounds like your problem is the shift solenoid.

I think what PTFiero was trying to say is if it is a auto unplug the TCC plug. They (tcc) will stick and the tcc will stay engaged. When you come to a stop it is like not pushing the clutch in on a manual and you kill the engine.

It's on the front of the trany behind the drivers side. point toward the driver. If you unplug it and it does not die you need a new solenoid.

Do a search on the net, there are some good writeups on how to do it. http://www.kichline.com/chuck/fiero/TCC.htm

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 02-20-2006).]

thanks but,
all ready did that. the car runs, but it still idles down and dies sometimes

The TCC solienoid is only a suspect when the engine violently stalls when coming to a complete stop, and then everytime you shift into drive until it unsticks.

You problem sounds like an IAC learning issue. While I cannot explain it, even though I know the intricate workings of the system, somehow this almost always fixes the problem. Unhook the battery, remove the IAC, depress the spring and turn the pintle clockwise until it stops retracting into the IAC motor. Replace the IAC, and hook up the battery. Then start the car, do not touch anything. If it stalls, restart it and dont touch anything. If it stalls 4 times or more, then feed it a little gas to get its bearings. Once it is idling let it idle for 2 minutes, then turn it off for 5. Then start it up and take it for a drive. Should be fixed, if not then you have some other problem, maybe check the timing.
Just doing the IAC without disconnecting the battery to clear the ECMs memory will usualy not work

As far as the other problem sounds like s stuck caliper or a internally collapsed brake hose. Id take it off and work it in and out a few times with a pair of channel locks and someone pushing the brake pedal, then bleed about a cup of fluid out of the caliper to try and get that junk out of there.

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I have recently had the same idle problem with two automatic cars. They have been solved with a combination of things. I'm not sure what was the most effective, but this is probably a computer/sensor problem. I replaced an 02 sensor on one car and a temp sensor on the other and probably even more important attended to questionable grounds. Both run fine now.

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"Let a man drive a Fiero and he'll own one.
Teach a man to fix a Fiero and he'll own eight."

[This message has been edited by Fierobruiser (edited 02-20-2006).]

If you can get the engine to idle in park, unplug your IAC --if there is a change--you found the problem--if not --time to look else where--are you coding anything??

I had bought a new iac when I did the overhaul on the car. It was set correctly or at least by the book of being within 1 1/8 or 1/4 i think. if thats not it what else could be the problem, I'am running out of ideals

I unplug the IAC an no change in the idle, I was thinking what about the timing gears could that be a problem ?