OK this really sucks, I tried to figure this out but I need some opinions here. Let me give you the summary:
1988 Sport Coupe converted to 1988 fastback, w 1987 2.8. I still have an Isuzu 5 spd tranny. I replaced the clutch and pressure plate 2 years ago, I replaced the Throw out bearing 3 years ago. I replaced the Master and Slave cylinders last winter, and bled the system.
So now you know what the car is and when the parts were replaced.
I started having trouble shifting about two weeks ago. Then over the course of about 3 days the clutch went to zero. The last day I had to drive home with no clutch at all. It was hell. I figured the master cylinder was bad again. But I checked the slave cylinder while someone pumped the clutch pedal and I saw about 1/2" movement from the rod. I figure this means the master cylinder and the slave cylinder are working. Does this leave me with the worst possible scenario? Do I actually have to drop the cradle and separate the tranny? The clutch can't be bad at two years of light driving. The way the clutch just let go over a few short drives made me think of a failing hydrolic system, butit seems that it all works.
Is there anything I am overlooking, or am I at the end of the rope here? What would cause the clutch to give out in so short a time like that if not the hydrolic system?
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01:20 PM
PFF
System Bot
LZeitgeist Member
Posts: 5662 From: Raleigh, NC, U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2000
Also, check the bolts holding the slave cylinder bracket to the side of the engine/transmission - mine loosened up, and I couldn't tell that the bracket was flexing until someone else was in the car pushing the pedal while I looked for myself.
I checked the bracket already, but I didn't rebleed the clutch. I guess it won't hurt to do that. I'll give it a whirl once the weather clears. And i get time. I already took out my bottle of clutch fluid figuring I would have to bleed the system when I replaced the master cylinder. Even if it's a pain in the ass, if it work's it will be nothing compared to spending $100 on a new master cylinder, or the time it takes to replace something inside the tranny.
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01:46 PM
RTNmsds Member
Posts: 1104 From: Woodruff, SC Registered: Oct 2003
You need 1" of movement on the 5-speed Isuzu setup. You definately have some air in the system and probably the slave is the culprit.
I bleed my clutch as you would any normal hydraulic system (i.e. the pedal pump method) to clear air from the master & the lines. After that (1) grab the slave rod, (2) open the slave bleed value, (3) compress the slave rod ALL THE WAY IN, (4) close the bleed valve without letting up on the slave rod even the slightest amount. I think you'll find that you'll find some air right at the end of the slave's compression stroke. Using a "one man bleeder kit" is a good way to insure you don't suck back any air during the process. Repeat until all the air is gone.
I have also read reports where people use a "gravity bleed" method to clear the slave. I have not tried this personally, but the results from it sound very encouraging.
Hope this helps.
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04:05 PM
lurker Member
Posts: 12351 From: salisbury nc usa Registered: Feb 2002
i use the "gravity bleed" with good results. the standard "push pedal-open bleeder-close bleeder release pedal" method didnt work for me because i'm only 1 person.
ive noticed when the weather turns cold i have trouble, last year i rebuilt the slave, this year i just bled out all the old dirty fluid, seems to have solved the problem. my guess is that when the weather is cold and the seals shrink and stiffen, water and air can get into the fluid, and that is a problem. short of moving to florida, it looks like bleeding the system annually to change all the fluid is a good idea.
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06:56 PM
Jan 4th, 2006
buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13602 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
oh. and 1/2" movement isn't enough. 3/4 (0.750") is the shortest movement i've seen that would work. and that's on 84's only. 85 and up seem to need a tad bit more.
Buddy, I was never able to get mine to shift into 1st or reverse with 3/4" on my 84. 7/8" ok. 1" smooth as silk. Took a LOT of bleeding and followed Ed Park's directions but it finally kept the 1" travel, and that has been 9 months+ ago. ConneticutFiero, (never could spell that state) this is not a bad page at all to keep bookmarked. http://www.thefierofactory.com/clutch.htm
[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 01-04-2006).]
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01:41 AM
lurker Member
Posts: 12351 From: salisbury nc usa Registered: Feb 2002
connecticutFIERO, do you have the good cast iron clutch arm or stamped steel? I had a similar problem awhile ago, and found that my clutch arm was cracked, so when the slave rod was pushing on it, it was only bending. Good luck.
connecticutFIERO, do you have the good cast iron clutch arm or stamped steel? I had a similar problem awhile ago, and found that my clutch arm was cracked, so when the slave rod was pushing on it, it was only bending. Good luck.
From my cursory look around, the arm looked just fine. It moved the way it should, and no visible cracks. Thanks for the replies everybody. I'm a one man show so I'll have to try gravity bleeding. Last time I used a broomstick to depress the clutch pedal, it worked pretty good but what a pain in the ass that was.
There is a local who would probably help out bleeding the system. If I can remember his name/number I'll let you know.
LOL, hey John how are ya? Haven't seen you in a while. It's cold out and I don't have a garage, so if you want to suffer with me while I bleed the clutch I won't stop you. I can't do it until Sunday though. I'll be working through Saturday. I really need a garage, I could just work on my car after work at like 9pm if I did. someday.