My 2.8 V6 has a modest oil leak on the top of the engine by the distributor and I think I need to replace the lower intake manifold seals to the block.

There are a couple of drops of oil on the ground after each running and oil pools around the distributor and then covers the back of the block and the starter with oil. I've replaced the distributor o-ring twice and that didn't help. It seems to be the black RTF seal on the S between the lower intake and the block. When I cleaned up the this S real well with brake cleaner, I could see just a tad of oil coming from this RTF seal. My attempt to "band aid" some RTF on the outside of this S was successful for a few hours of driving, but that doesn't really do it. But, the "band aid" gave me a diagnosis that I have confidence in.

So, I am thinking of installing the Fel Pro intake gasket & valve cover sets and am looking at the steps in the Helms and the Haynes manuals. This looks pretty straightforward of tearing down, cleaning the surfaces, putting in new gaskets, and torking and sequencing the bolts correctly when rebuilding.

Your suggestions for things on this install that the manuals don't talk about would be appreciated. It has been a long time since my HS auto shop in the 60s! Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks...
atjxl

Be sure you have good valve cover gaskets when you do this. They usually leak first.

The real issue is staying organized with all the tubes and wires. I label tubes with some masking tape and a number or letter with a corresponding piece of tape where they attach.

You need a good torque wrench. Torquing the bolts in sequence is a must. When you take of the manifolds you need to clean the surfaces really well. The bottom intake manifold takes black RTV sealant on the front and rear edge. You need to put on about 1/4" round bead and it will squash down when you re-install. The 4 studs, one at each corner, on the bottom intake manifold can be tricky. They may need soaking before you can undo them without breaking one.

You may need to remove the distributor on this job. When you do, line up #1 TDC and make sure your rotor is pointed at #1 terminal before you pull it.

I'd go with Felpro or another good gasket set. Don't go cheapy. It's awefully tempting to do more once you have the top off. There is porting and getting your injectors cleaned for sure. Also, new vacuum tubing, and if you can afford to spring the extra, some new sensors.

Good luck on it.

Arn

you will have to remove the pushrods - so you will have to re-do the valve lash - keep the pushrods in order - so they go back where they came from
drain coolant - at least 1 gallon before removing the intake - there is coolant in there, and you dont want it running into the motor
you have to put the intake gasket in FIRST - then the pushrods go thru it. dont want to do the lash twice....
careful with the EGR tube.
if you have time - gasket match/port them intakes - or send them to daryl - $100 bored TB right now

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1985 Fiero SE - Plain Red V6 Coupe
3.1 Crane272 MSD 4.10-4spd DarthChip Borla
D.A.M.M. - Drunks Against Mad Mothers

While you have it apart you may want to pull and clean your lifters and check them for cupping. I like to lifters back in the same hole they came out of, but that's just me.

and use rtv sealant on the ends(the flat surface of the block) or the "s" area as you called it. this provides the best seal! dont use those crap rubber seals that come with the kit....rtv will make the job much better

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Keith
Topsail Beach,NC
86&87 Fiero GT
86&96 Corvette
04 Harley Davidson Softail
73 Lotus Europa Twin Cam
86 Lotus Turbo Esprit

"He who dies with the most toys wins!!!"

quote Originally posted by Francis T: While you have it apart you may want to pull and clean your lifters and check them for cupping. I like to lifters back in the same hole they came out of, but that's just me.

if your lifters are cupping, your cam is wrecked. but, it certainly dont hurt to look. and they MUST go back in the holes they came out of. like the pushrods, these are "worn in" parts. the cam "break-in" period is all about establishing this mated surface. the lifter, rods & rockers are all "worn in" to each other, and to avoid any problems, they must be put back they way they came out. valves are like this also. each valve & valve seat is unique.

this is also why roller cams & roller rockers are so nice - no more friction mated surfaces - lifters rolling along on the cam, rockers bopping up & down on bearings - gooood stuff

I did this to fix a broken thermostat housing bolt. It is a pretty good job and I took my time to
do it (approx 2-3 days, can be done in 1). Here is a few suggestions / hints....

1: Use PB blaster on all the bolts to help make things easier when disassembling.

2: Label everything with tape as you take it apart. Sensor wires, vacume lines,
distributor wires, fuel injector connecctions, etc.

3: When taking the bolts out of the upper/middle/lower intake manifold, use a piece
of carboard to put them in so you can replace them the same way they came out.
Use bags with labels to put other bolts in for reassembly, etc.

4: There are a couple of brackets I had to undo to get the lower manfold out. One is
the dogbone, one on the front of the engine block. You will see once you get there.

5: I drained out the coolant by syphoning it out through the thermostat housing opening.

6: I got a gasket set from NAPA auto. It comes with a tub of sealant for the ends of the
lower intake manfold. Also use rubber gaskets for the valve cover (don't use cork).
Also needed to get a new TB and thermostat housing gasket.

7: You will be taking out the distributor and fuel injectors and disconnecting the fuel
rail. You shoiuld replace all the O rings when reinstalling. Don't forget the cold start
valve O rings too.

8: This is an opportunity to repaint the upper plenum, valve covers, new stainless vacume
lines, addig a fuel pressure meter, deleting the TB heating tubes, new fuel injectors if
the old ones are real old, checking the EGR tube for cracks, new sensors such as temp,
IAC, fan switch, etc, check all electrical connectors for possible replacement, check
coolant hoses for cracks, porting and cleaning the manifolds, etc, etc.

9: Note about the lower intake manifold gasket, the push rods go through opening in the
gasket. One method is to cut the gasket so you don't have to pull the push rods and
thus have to do a valve adjustment. In fact the gasket I had even said "CUT" on the
gasket to do this method. There is a debate whether this is desireable to do or if it
weakens the gasket. It's up to you which way you go.

10: The upper plenum has the star shaped bolt heads and use a good torque wrench. Use
the instructions in your manual for the install pattern and torque.

11: Sine you will be disconnecting the fuel rail lines, there will be some gas spilled when
doing this so be careful.

12: Make extra sure when you have the lower intake manifold out you don't let anything
fall down into the engine (like a bolt) or you will probably be looking at pulling the
engine to get it out. Use some rags to cover it up to help make sure this doesn't
happen.

13: Take pictures while you are tearing everything apart to help when reassembling.
There are some pictures on this board you might want to get of the upper/middle/
lower manifolds that can help you.

14: Note the distributor shaft and distributor before taking it out so you don't have alot
of work finding the timing after reassembly.

As you can see this is not a small job, so take your time and everytning should be OK.
Good luck and Merry Christmas.

Thanks a lot to all of you for your tips. There's more to doing this than is spelled out in the manuals.

But your suggestions bring me to have another question.

From reading the manuals I did not expect to have to remove the pushrods. I would rather not cut the lower intake gasket, so I will remove the rods. But now valve lash adjustment is part of the job.

To do this adjustment, the manuals say that I need to have the engine rotated so the timing tab is at the zero mark. The first set of valves is done zeroed in the #1 firing position and the second set is done zeroed in the #4 firing position.

So what is the easiest way to get the engine in the right position before I pull the distributor?

Just crank it with the starter until it lands at zero and then check under the dist cap to see if the rotor is near #1 or #4? Please advise.

I think it would be better to turn the engine with a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt.

Yeah, always turn the motor with a wrench on the main crank bolt, never use the starter because it spins the motor too fast and is uncontrollable as to where it stops.

With the spark plugs out the engine only takes a few lbs-feet to turn, easy to do with a 3/8" ratchet.

JazzMan

yes, turn by the crank untill the timing mark is at zero. doesnt matter if its 4 or 1, you'll find that out later, when looking at the pushrods/rockers. the one that has both valves closed is the one its at (1 or 4). with the gaskets - dont cut it. I've NEVER seen a intake manifold that has "cut" on it. ive seen "do not cut" on ALL of them.

Umm, you're sure its not coming from the base of the distributor right? there is an oring down there that can leak like siv when it cracks. Very common problem on all 60* V6s

Make sure the gasket set is for the Fiero...if you get the 2.8 (9) set the valve cover gaskets will be wrong...I worked at an auto parts store for quite a while...plus I've done this myself as well...Just read the back of the box...it will say NOTE: VALVECOVER GASKETS FOR FIREO NOT INCL.