I know how to prime the oil system for a v-8 and a v-6 by driving the oil pump with a screwdriver or the drive post in a drill. How do you spin the oil pump to build oil presure on a freshly rebuilt or remanufactured duke. I really don't want to pull the coil wire and turn it over with the starter to build oil pressure before trying to start a new engine for the first time. I didn't see anything around the distributor's home hole. The bottom of the distributor looks like it might have a slot drive. If you feel around the ditributor's home you can feel the drive gear that drives the distributor. The bottom of the distributor seems to fit into a smooth cup, with no appearent way to turn the oil pump. I am almosr ready to put my car back on the road and this is the last thing I need to do before I turn the key for the first time. This is an 86 5 speed duke Coupe.

Now I dont know if this is true since I've yet to look under it, but there's a metal plate at roughly the height of the distributer but under the dogbone mount. Someone once said he had primed his 'duke, and I Think he ment through that access cover.

Yes that is where the pump drive it under that cover. No I don't know how it works in there or if you can prime it.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
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The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

I remember priming my duke in my Phoenix many years ago, using an electric drill and some sort of bit. I don't remember if it was a hex or a pin, but I don't recall it being much of a problem to figure out.

JazzMan

It is going to depend on what year duke we are talking about. On my 87 duke motor, should be the same for earlier years, there is a plate that covers the oil pump drive shaft. It's just above the oil filter and has two bolts holding it down. I made a tool to replace the oil pump drive shaft and spun it with a drill. I don't know of any way you could prime an 88 because the oil pump is much different and is driven by the crank. You might try pulling your plugs and fuel pump relay, then see if you can crank it to get pressure. PULL YOUR RELAY if you try this. You do not want to flood the car. I tried on my 87 rebuild but the new oil pump was dry and would not pick up. Let me know what year model duke your dealing with and I'll try to help.

One important thing that was loosly touched upon...
The Fiero's fuel pump will turn on if it sees oil pressure. That means gas everywhere if your fuel lines are disconnected.
You can disconnect the oil pressure sensor, it's half way between the distributer and the oil pump cover plate.

^^^ You can also pull the fuel pump fuse, to crank the engine without having to worry about fuel.

That is pretty much what I was thinking. Pull the access plate above the oil pump drive, remove the drive rod and gear assembly, then make a drive tool for a drill to spin the pump. The only way to do it with out being a contortionist as I can see would be to remove the dogbone and intake manifold. I figure by the time you got everything assembled your oil pressure would have dropped back to zero. Maybe you could remove the above mentioened parts remove the plate, make the tool, get the right angle drill set up. Put back on the above mentioed parts spin up oil pressure, then reinstall the oil pump drive rod and retainer plate, then start the engine. Haynes says to pull the distributor wire and crank the engine over with the starter till you get oil pressure. I am just concerned with damaging a new engine the first time i fire it up. What is the best route to take?

quote Originally posted by Fixer Up: Haynes says to pull the distributor wire and crank the engine over with the starter till you get oil pressure. I am just concerned with damaging a new engine the first time i fire it up. What is the best route to take?

You won't hurt anything doing as the Haynes says, assuming you used plenty of assembly lube when you built the engine. Remember it won't have the loads associated with combustion if you just crank it over without starting it. And everything will nicely coated with oil the first time you light it off.

If you'll make your tool to fit a flexible extension, you won't have to remove the intake. You can route it up between the runners.

I agree with frizlefrak with a caution. If you used assembly white grease designed for engine assembling then yes, it is ok to remove the plugs and crank away without reprocations (spelling?). BUT, if you used assembly lube such as G.M.'s EOS it will likely drip after one day. So then it should be primed via the oil pump tool. Even though there is very little load. That's my policy when I assemble engines. Most of the times I use white grease cuz the engine will sit longer than one day prior to starting. Usually complete replacement with the engine already assembled days before, pull the old engine and put the new one in. If I know I will take the engine out, rebuild it, then put it back in the car and start it up shortly after I connect everything, then assembly lube is fine. Again that's my personal discipline that I adhere to very strongly. This method have been satisfactory especially with new cams installed.