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pic's on changing valve seals. by danz85gt
Started on: 10-28-2005 07:00 PM
Replies: 1
Last post by: JazzMan on 10-28-2005 10:27 PM
danz85gt
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Report this Post10-28-2005 07:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for danz85gtSend a Private Message to danz85gtDirect Link to This Post
Winters coming and I plan to do the valve seals on my 2.8 . Does anyone have some pictures on this project? Thanks.
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Report this Post10-28-2005 10:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
Pics really won't help much here, it's fairly straightforward to change them. If you have compressed air then take a spark plug and knock the ceramic out of it, break off the electrode, and gut it so that you have just the metal outer shell left. Epoxy an air fitting to it, then install it in each cylinder you're working on so that you can use air pressure to keep the valves up. If you don't have air, then use 1/4" clothesline or other flexible rope and stuff some in the cylinder, then turn the engine to bring the rope up to the valves to keep them from falling down.

You'll need a 10mm 12-point socket for the upper plenum bolts, regular metric hand tools for the rest, and a new set of valve cover gaskets, preferrably the blue FelPro silicone ones. You'll also need new upper and middle plenum gaskets, though sometimes if you're lucky they won't delaminate upon disassembly and you can reuse them. A valve spring compressor will be mandatory, I like the lever-type as they're fast and simple to use. Don't mix up the rockers and rocker balls, they're wear-matched to each other and the valve tips and can't be interchanged.

I highly recommend the FelPro intake positive seals and stem seals. It might be cheaper to get a FelPro top-end set, HS8699PT-5, it has everything including the injector O-rings and head gaskets. AutoZone has the best price I've seen on these so far.

JazzMan

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