I need the distance between the passenger side engine lift (the sheet metal one) and the side of the upper intake manifold.

Thanks

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1988 GT, 5-speed, white, beechwood leather, 3.4 DOHC installation in process.

At the very top you have 1 3/4", as you continue downward to the section with the small hole in it, you have 3/4".

would that differ between the years?

whoah, mike, u got a 3.4 around here? care to take me for a spin? ive heard good things about the 3.4, but never seen/heard/rode in one before.

quote Originally posted by MikeW: At the very top you have 1 3/4", as you continue downward to the section with the small hole in it, you have 3/4".

Thanks Mike. Just what I needed, A "plus" for ya.

Just happened to have a crate motor under final construction before it goes into the car. Was easy to put the plenum on and measure it (96/97). Having a dilema over aftermarket engine managements. Wish it ran so I could take ME for a ride! Best of luck.

Hmm. Mine's a '95 crate motor with a '92 intake manifold. I hope the UIMs are similar in size. I'm attaching part of the torque strut mount to the rear of the lift bracket. It's welded now, so we'll see.

Thanks again.

I'd check and see if very many people have used the stamped mount you're referring to. I remember one guy who had one break. I'm more concerned about the aluminum however. If you can add another attachment point for the bracket to bolt to more aluminum it would help. Not that easily done i suppose.

atleast 2 people have broken the timing cover by having a dogbone attached to the lift loop - however they both used rubber engine and transmission mounts allowing excessive movement and their dogbone design twisted the lift loop..

darth fiero designed a bracket that centered the dogbone on the lift loop and so far as I know if it hasn't broken..

I used a rubber dogbone as a 5th mount on my setup - polly trans and engine mounts - as well as using the 3.4dohcs stock engine mount bracket under the A/C compressor to mount torque struts (poly sway bar end links) to a bracket i welded to the craddle - the engine doesn't move at all

The lift is only one of the attachment points. On my 1992 parts motor there was a 10 mm threaded hole in the head opposite the lift bracket. Wasn't on my '95 crate motor (the boss was still there) so I drilled and tapped it for a 7/16" coarse thread bolt. A threaded sleeve with heims at each end tie from there to the lift bracket. I'll post pictures when it's together.

I had a dogbone in the similar location. after a few hard launches the bracket twisted and split. I then had a friend weld a reaaly big washer on there to fix it and I t ran fine for a while. Then the aluminum broke where the bracket was bolted to. It did take a lot for it to break though. At the time I switched over to a fwd tranny, and my ecm was set up for the Fiero VSS. Whenever I drove at a certain RPM in every gear the car would jerk really violently. The ecm was htting its speed limiter.

In the future I'll be investigating the possibility of this: I have a spare engine to mess with. I'll knock out the plug on the other end of the head (tranny end) and check the thickness of the casting in various areas. If possible, I'll drill and tap for a plate or fixture to bolt to the head. I might have to o-ring the plate if I go thru the head. If it's too thin to thread, I can tig weld some bosses onto the head or even weld a plate to the head. The engine can be run up to temp and the head pre heated to make the welding friendlier. The computer needs to be removed to keep the welder hi frequency from killing it. Of course the dogbone will be moved to the middle of the trunk wall. I think it will work, but don't do it if you're not pretty clued in about metal and machining. You could ruin a head. Just one approach.