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4.9 Idle problem or need to do learn? by Exodus5
Started on: 10-12-2005 08:14 AM
Replies: 1
Last post by: Exodus5 on 10-30-2005 03:23 PM
Exodus5
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Report this Post10-12-2005 08:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Exodus5Send a Private Message to Exodus5Direct Link to This Post
All,
I first started my 4.9 swap several weeks ago. After getting the timing right, it idled as I would have expected. My tach (has not been modded yet) showed around 850 as a steady idle. I then found the pink w/black stripe wire (power +12v) going to the round transmission connector and EGR solenoid was disconnected. I connected this wire to +12V (one of the fuel injector wires...hot in run and start). As soon as I started the car again, the car roared to life idling at ~3000rpm (uncorrected tach) and then dropped to maybe 2000 or 2100. It sounds like it is idling way higher than before. Did the EGR solenoid not being powered before put the car in limp mode? Do I need to redo the idle learn procedure? That's what I'm planning, just wanted to know if anyone had an idea on this.
Thanks.
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Exodus5
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Report this Post10-30-2005 03:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Exodus5Send a Private Message to Exodus5Direct Link to This Post
Update and more weirdness/help needed.


I had the engine running to set the timing, etc…but then I noticed the pink w/blk wires from the round transmission connector and egr solenoid were not hooked up. Funny thing, the car was idling fine around 800 RPM at that time (limp mode?). I hooked the wires up (I had already done the idle learn and It appeared to be good) and the next time I started the engine it immediately ran up to 3000RPM at idle. It actually started climbing from that point a little, so I shut it down. I checked everything I could think of. I took the ISC motor off and set the minimum idle at about 650RPM. I know it’s supposed to be a little lower, but the car was shaking a little like it was going to die at that point. I verified tps was .50v. I then ran the ISC to 1.15v (full extension). It was idling about 3500RPM at that point, is that right? I ran it back down to minimum and un-grounded the Alt/reconnected the ISC. The car was idling at about 650RPM with no ISC touching. I turned the car off and noticed the ISC ran the throttle back to the point at which the car was idling (on minimum idle screw) at maybe 1800RPM. I started the car and it was the same thing all over again. The engine immediately jumped up to 3000RPM and the slowly started climbing.

My question. I found a post by a guy many months ago while I had the engine apart that said that you could gain horsepower by gapping the divided plenum. I gapped the hell out of mine. I put a 7-9mm hole directly down the center of the plenum divide from top to the level of the upper plane. Is this what my problem is? I have replaced TPS and EGR valve but absolutely no change has been seen. I am assuming that the computer moves the ISC to the position where it believes 800RPM is, but it doesn’t see what the actual RPM is and that my MAJOR air gap has caused a situation where the air that is expected to be coming in has doubled, therefore causing this high RPM situation. Does the computer not see that it is idling at 3000+ RPMs and try to adjust?

I don’t know of anyone who has done this to their plenum to such a degree. I searched the caddy swap site and pennocks, but I can't find anyone else except MTA who has altered the plenum, and his was a carb (I think).

I sent an email to Rockcrawl with this info, since he seems to be "the man" especially about the idle learn procedure. I am at my wits end. Add to all the below that now the car pukes up coolant if I fill the rear fill point to the top. If I let it spill out about a cup worth, it doesn't leak again. I think the top of the water pump is leaking due to the pressure exerted by the belt being rather tight due to my tensioner setup. When it rains, it pours...

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