I am going to rebuild the suspension on my 88 and need some advice. I have $1200 + or -. I have already bought all the Poly and POR-15. I want to lower the car about an 1 1/2" and replace the springs, shocks, ball joints, and the tie rod ends.
My questions are:

1. How should I lower the front? Springs, or Ball joints. Spindles aren't in the budget.
2. How do I lower the rear? Will coilovers do the trick?
3. I have Konis on my 84. Will these struts work on the rear?
4. What am I missing?

------------------

quote Originally posted by bonzo: I am going to rebuild the suspension on my 88 and need some advice. I have $1200 + or -. I have already bought all the Poly and POR-15. I want to lower the car about an 1 1/2" and replace the springs, shocks, ball joints, and the tie rod ends. My questions are: 1. How should I lower the front? Springs, or Ball joints. Spindles aren't in the budget. 2. How do I lower the rear? Will coilovers do the trick? 3. I have Konis on my 84. Will these struts work on the rear? 4. What am I missing?

You said you wanted to replace the springs so you're going to have to get lowering springs for the front; you can't get the factory springs anymore. Just get the front set from Fierostore.
Use coilovers for the rear. See the fierohoho thread or talk to me to find out how to make them. Note that you will need a sleeve with a different inner diameter for the Koni's. I think the measurement is in the thread somewhere. 150lb-in spring rate was used on the rear of all 88's.
The Koni's from the 84 will work fine. You may need to grind part of the strut body to get full adjustment, but this isn't always necessary.. depends on how the tolerances stack up on your car.
Don't forget about the steering rack. Replace the rack bushing while you're in there (you can get it from Rodney Dickman).

Steve,

Thanx for the heads up on the steering and the info + for you. I may go ahead and buy KYBs all the way around. The 84 is still going to be driven.
Does anybody else have info on the lowering ball joints? Any pics of projects?
Bonzo

[This message has been edited by bonzo (edited 10-09-2005).]

Bump for the weekday crew

Hmmm. ??

I have been there and done that with the '88 suspension rebuild, including installing Rodney's steering rack bushing.

I bought the 1" front lowering springs from the Fiero Store, and the WCF coilovers for the back. Plus new KYB's all around. Plus poly bushings in all locations. All of this has worked very well. With one exception. On rough roads with lots of potholes, or over RR tracks, the car is not fun to drive. It is VERY stiffly sprung. There is very little compliance with the poly bushings. When you go to lowering springs, the rate increases by about 25 lbs/inch. The result is very little suspension travel, and a very harsh ride on a bad road. Around here, we have lots of bad roads.

I have not used the lowering ball joints, but it seems to me that if a more comfortable ride is a consideration, this might be the way to go. That way you will not be increasing the front spring rate. You can specify the spring rate of the coil overs, when you order them, at least from WCF you can.

On the other hand, if you are blessed with smooth roads, a harsh ride may not be a concern.

Finally, just remember, if you are going to install a front spoiler, and lower the car at the same time, be prepared for some scrapeing at the front, from time time time.

...Rickker
'88GT/Getrag/3800SC
13.2 @ 103

Here's what I did with my '88. I lowered it with FS springs front and rear. Koni specials all the way around. I have the fronts set to full stiff, and I adjust the rears according to driving conditions. Polythane at every joint front and rear. I also replaced all 4 of my ball joints and both tie-rods. I did all of this at the same time. It took me a good 4-5 days. I probably could do it alot faster, but I had problems replacing my bushings. They had to be burned out, and I couldn't find anyone to do them due to EPA regulations, so I eventually found a torch and burned them out myself. I also aligned it myself. I do believe your '84 rear Konis are the same as '88 rear Konis. I did the alignment myself. I had to grind some metal off the rear spindle, or knuckle, or whatever you want to call it to get more range of negative camber adjustment in the rear with the Konis on the back. For some reason there was a nut or stud or something getting in the way. I still need to grind some more off, but I've been lazy. I'm still running stock swaybars front and rear. Lean is practically gone. It rides like a rock. But that's the way I like it! I'm just recently kinda wishing it was maybe a 1/2 to 1 inch lower front and rear though. I've never tried the lowering ball joints, so I don't know how those are.

------------------

'88 Fiero GT - 3.4L GM Crate engine
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/707857
'91 GMC Syclone - #449
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2067330

If you have the time and tools, I would recommend using Rodney's ball joint trick to drop the front end. It leaves the suspension in the stock angles which will make it easier to align correctly.

-Rick

I have completely rebuilt both the front and rear suspension on my 88. I did poly all around Powder coated all the front and most of the rear. New ball joints and Rodney's steering rack rebuild bushing. To lower mine I cut 1 loop out of all the springs I have had no alignment problems and am currently using Monroe shocks and struts on my 4.9 powered Formula/GT. The ride is smooth and it takes bumps with out any harseness. My son's 88 has KYB shocks and struts and you feel every bump in his car.

This is how my 88 looks now

Joe Sokol

------------------
85 SE 2.8 - beater coupe-
86 SE 3.4 -in progress 3800 II SC -
88 Formula GT 4.9 5 speed beast
Enough parts outside for another one
-And a 3.4 push rod for sale in the mall Go and look-

quote Originally posted by Fieroking: The ride is smooth and it takes bumps with out any harseness. My son's 88 has KYB shocks and struts and you feel every bump in his car.

Hmmmm...interesting.. I did not think that the KYBs were the culprit, but maybe they are. Of course, another factor is when you change from the OEM 60 series tires to 17" wheels with 45 series tires, you certainly will feel the bumps more than before.
....Rickker