This is happening on an 85 GT that I've been working on for a while, swapped in another 2.8 because the orginal was screwed. So anyways, I bled the brakes, started the car, fired fine, then I shut it off and tried to start it again, click click click, so I boosted the car, runs fine, then I get it to move it, apply the brakes and it stalls. Then I turn the key and nothing at all now.
What's going on???
------------------ Dan 1985 Silver GT
Selling my rebuilt and never run LT1, if interested email me dankuzma@hotmail.com.
check your battery connections?? The alternator can lug like crazy if it isn't getting proper connections to the battery.... Both pos and neg. I had a loose negative and it was doing all kinds of weird stuff. Try turning on the headlights when its idling, see if that does the same thing. Other than that, I dont know right off hand.... Brake booster problem? Vaccuum leak somewhere?
If applying the brakes changes the way the engine runs, I would say that there is a problem with the vacuum booster for the brakes. If there is a bad leak in the booster, then everytime you apply the brakes there is effectively a bad vacuum leak, causing all sorts of problems.
JazzMan
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01:15 AM
2000RagTop Member
Posts: 3999 From: Sussex, (Milwaukee) Wi. USA, Earth Registered: Jun 2003
If applying the brakes changes the way the engine runs, I would say that there is a problem with the vacuum booster for the brakes. If there is a bad leak in the booster, then everytime you apply the brakes there is effectively a bad vacuum leak, causing all sorts of problems.
JazzMan
This is the same thought I had........ya' beat me to it
Then cuts out completely when the brakes are applied, shortly after that, it won't start, doesn't even click. So I'm kinda leaning towards the electrical possible problem. The brakes were functioning fine a few weeks ago when I took it for a drive, aside from the fact that they were spongy and needed to be bled.
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01:47 AM
enthashyt Member
Posts: 239 From: Savannah, GA Registered: Mar 2005
stupid question, but does it have gas in it? I had the same thing happen. It would run fine for a little while then when I pressed breaks it shut off. I could get it restarted but only drive it for a little ways then when I slowed down, cut off. Then it started getting harder and harder to restart till I couldn't at all.
Turned out the gas guage was off. It will be empty when it says there is 1/4th tank left. So now I fill up at half.
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05:47 AM
topcat Member
Posts: 5486 From: Charleston SC Registered: Dec 2001
I was thinking brake boster or the check valve as Jazzman mentioned. Before tearing into the electrical system try removing the connector from the brake light switch on the brake pedal. If the problem goes away with the switch disconnected, then you will have isolated the booster and verified that there is an electrical problem.
stupid question, but does it have gas in it? I had the same thing happen. It would run fine for a little while then when I pressed breaks it shut off. I could get it restarted but only drive it for a little ways then when I slowed down, cut off. Then it started getting harder and harder to restart till I couldn't at all.
Turned out the gas guage was off. It will be empty when it says there is 1/4th tank left. So now I fill up at half.
You know, funny you say that, it DID run out of gas when I had it running earlier, but then I put 4L in then ran it again, so that problem should have went away.
Okay so I boosted the car, ran it WITH the jumper cables attached, applied the brakes and it worked fine. SO, here's what I'm thinking, alternator is bad?
Sound about right? And if so, They're a pain in the a$$ to get out too are they not? I've never had to do it with the engine in the car.
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02:17 PM
ka4nkf Member
Posts: 3702 From: New Port Richey, FL USA Registered: May 99
You have got a electrical problem. If the brake booster was bad then it would idle faster when you apply the brake. If you have a auto tranny then maybe the park switch is messed up. Put it in nuetral and see if it does it. I would say that you have a electrical problem Also charge the battery up to full charge and see if this cures it. If so, then you have a bad battery or the alternator. Good Luck Don
[This message has been edited by ka4nkf (edited 09-25-2005).]
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04:35 PM
topcat Member
Posts: 5486 From: Charleston SC Registered: Dec 2001
You have got a electrical problem. If the brake booster was bad then it would idle faster when you apply the brake. If you have a auto tranny then maybe the park switch is messed up. Put it in nuetral and see if it does it. I would say that you have a electrical problem Also charge the battery up to full charge and see if this cures it. If so, then you have a bad battery or the alternator. Good Luck Don
Not necessarily. The vacuum for the brake booster is on the other side of the intake, so faster idle might not happen.
[This message has been edited by topcat (edited 09-25-2005).]
Not necessarily. The vacuum for the brake booster is on the other side of the intake, so faster idle might not happen.
Yeah but it's not the booster because the car is fine when I have the booster cables attached to the good battery. I'm hoping it's just a battery terminal because to swap alternators will be a PAIN IN THE A$$!!!!!
You mentioned you replaced the engine, did you make all the connections at the alternator. I have done this one before. Also is the battery holding a full charge (12.8v) with key in off position, and what is the voltage while engine is running (should be 13~14v).
You mentioned you replaced the engine, did you make all the connections at the alternator. I have done this one before. Also is the battery holding a full charge (12.8v) with key in off position, and what is the voltage while engine is running (should be 13~14v).
Well I don't have a multimeter so I don't have any way of checking the voltage. I hope to get a hold of one in the next few days. I'm assuming the connections would be good, the battery went dead on my before when I left the key in the on position, then I boosted it, ran it, and it was starting fine after that. So I want to assume the alternator works fine.
Could it be a fuseable link?
[This message has been edited by sloth85GT (edited 09-26-2005).]
