I'll scan the manual's pages on the hinges and post it here, but I'd go with the 15-20 lb for the 8mm and 30-40 for the 10mm on the frame side, as it says on the 2nd page - maybe more if it makes you feel safe. I think the 14-20 ft-lb is for the door side.
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First I got the vertical alignment so the door closed and opened easily. Then I adjusted the inward/outward of the top and bottom individually until I got a good balance between things lining up and the door glass sealing well. I don't know if there was any adjustment forward and rearward.
To adjust the top, loosen the top bolts just enough that you can manhandle the top of the door around, and just *barely* loosen the bottom bolts enough that it will pivot on the bottom (Keep them pretty tight - Barely loosening one bottom bolt may be enough). To align the bottom of the door, just loosen the bottom bolts and pivot on "pretty tight" top bolts.
You have to do this with the door skin off, but to make body alignment easier you can leave the fender attached and just pull it back for access. Also, each time you tighten the hinge bolts up after an adjustment, you can open the door, hang the skin on temporarily and close the door to check the alignment. It really helps to have at least one other person on hand. It took a lot of sweat and cursing 
- Jason
