My current 4.3 is externally balanced so it uses the same small flywheel as the older cameros etc
and uses the same bolt pattern to v8 adapters

my adapter is about 1" thick and worked great with my first setup, internally balanced 4.3 with a 1" thick V8 archie flywheel
since i switched to a thinner and lighter flywheel i seem to have shifting problems ie into first gear...
is there a chart somewhere to indicate adapter thickness in relation to flywheel thickness ?

i think i should have a thinner adapter but im not sure

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84 Fiero Turbo Vortec 4300 Phantom GT
L35 block, Syclone Intake and ECM with Moates adapter
50lb injectors, 3 bar map sens, T04B H3 Turbo www.cardomain.com/id/vortecfiero
Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value
Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure.
Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"

You'd have to:
A) have the thickness of your new flywheel handy

and

B) ask Archie about that one

Depending on the difference of thickness between the 2 flywheels, the clutch may not be disengaging fully.
The easy way to make up the difference would to be to shim the flywheel the amount that the 2 flywheels differ. From there if you don't want to shim, I'd elect to having the adapter plate milled down to the proper thickness.

quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: Depending on the difference of thickness between the 2 flywheels, the clutch may not be disengaging fully. The easy way to make up the difference would to be to shim the flywheel the amount that the 2 flywheels differ. From there if you don't want to shim, I'd elect to having the adapter plate milled down to the proper thickness.

shimming sounds like a plan lol
how much is too much to shim ?
i dont want to reconfigure my V8 style mounts if i have mill my adapter
maybe shim half the diff and mill the other half...
i'll keep ya posted

If you just want to make it work as good as it did before, or if you don't want to screw up the geometry of all the parts that were designed to work together, I think Archie can sell you the correct F/W to do the job right.

Archie

UPDATE

new correct archie fly wheel
new master clutch cylinder
system carfully bleed (how much travel should i get from the clutch arm?)

Im not abll to get any gears at all !
the pedal feels ok.... but not as good as my 87GT, that has never had the tranny off, which releases the clutch
at 1/4 pedal travel and then gets easier to push

so im wondering
could putting the clutch disk in backwards cause this problem ?
im soooooooo not having a good season !

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84 Fiero Turbo Vortec 4300 Phantom GT
L35 block, Syclone Intake and ECM with Moates adapter
50lb injectors, 3 bar map sens, T04B H3 Turbo www.cardomain.com/id/vortecfiero
Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value
Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure.
Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"

[This message has been edited by vortecfiero (edited 09-25-2005).]

if i get 3/4 of movement or more on the pushrod with a 4 speed it seems to be good enough.
i didn't notice which tranny or clutch you have
and you might check this thread for possible problems with the master, banjo rod and pedal.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/062105.html

The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel, so the flywheel can be paper thin to 4 Ft thick and the amount of distance the pressure plate pulls the surface away from the disc and flywheel is always the same. But I would go with a flywheel that has stood the test of time (Archie) and if theres still a problem look elsewhere.

[This message has been edited by Kekipi (edited 09-25-2005).]