Can you use the r134a stop leak - just the stop leak to seal a r12 system and then put r12 back in?

No... I have the same problem in my formula that has r12 and having problems trying to find stop leak.

quote Originally posted by Madess: Can you use the r134a stop leak - just the stop leak to seal a r12 system and then put r12 back in?

?? is there such a thing as "r134a Stop leak?"
Where do I find it?

Thanks........

I have seen that r134 stop leak sold at auto zone,And I have also seen the stop leak for r 12 at pep boys it comes in a plastic tube that you attatch to the ac fitting and then you take I think a 9/16 socket and screw this nut and squeeze the juice into the ac system I do not know if this stuff works I would give it a try if I had a very slowwww leak.

Never mix anything intended for an R-12 system with those made for an R-134 system. That includes Refrigerent, oil, stop leak, cooling enhancers etc.

------------------
87GT 3.4 Turbo- 0-60 5.2 seconds -Best
Engine Controls, ECM goodies, Chip
re-programming & odd electronics stuff

quote Originally posted by 2000RagTop: ?? is there such a thing as "r134a Stop leak?" Where do I find it? Thanks........

Wisconsin doesn't allow the sale. You can get it in Illinois and Michigan.

Don't use stop leak unless you have given up on the AC and don't plan on asking an AC shop to fix it. Do this only as a last-ditch effort. Sometimes it works (for very very tiny leaks) and often it just balls up in the system and does more harm than good. Getting it out is almost impossible.

Systems with stop leak have to be marked and sealed so an AC tech down the road doesn't try and recover the refrigent and wipe out their system.

If you put dye in it and it never shows up anywhere then the odds are the leak is in the evaporator (low chance) or the front seal on the compressor (high chance). The dye will often not leak out enough to be seen on the compressor pulley. I just had a V5 like that.

If your R12/R134 leaks out any faster than a couple of weeks, that's a huge leak and sealant is the wrong choice. A leak like that can be found unless it's hidden. Even then, it can be found but you have to isolate each part unless you have a sniffer.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 08-02-2005).]

You cannot use any R134 product in an R12 system or other way round for that matter. (Ignoring complet conversion for the moment.)

There are two sort of things you can call a stop leak... Seal/hose "conditioners" and hard leak products. Hard leaks are holes in metal parts.

Seal/hose conditioners might work if a seal or hose is just starting to leak at very low rate. These products usually have chemicals that soften and/or swell the rubber parts. Too much of these could possibly kill the rubber parts so if one doesn't work, don't add more/another. Using two different products is probably also bad. (Some conditioners are ment as pre treatment and others as stop leak. Read them to see what they are ment for.)

Most stopleak products for hard leaks (for R12 or R134) work one of two ways... They harden when exposed to water or air. The biggest reason they fail... They harden when exposed to water or air. You can't just dump these into most systems because they contain either water from simple age or air from improper service.

Not only does the system need to be pumped down and serviced properly before any attempt at stop leak... You have to have a bloody small leak. Several I've seen say the system has to hold vac with valves closed and pump off for some amount of time. If that test fails the stopleak won't work.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurasic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)