Can anyone with a Chilton's or similar scan the page showing the horn location and wiring diagram and email it to me? My horn doesn't work and I need a safety inspection this week - I'm pretty sure the horn will be checked and my doesn't work. There is no button under the center portion of my steering wheel, so I know I need that, but I don't even know if my horn is connected or not. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, got some info that will help. I think I may still need the button that goes under the cap on the steering wheel, though. I bought the car with an aftermarket wheel, and the center cap just pushes in. Took it off, and no button underneath to even make the horn sound, so I don't know if it works or not.
The stock wheel uses a metal pin to make the horn work. When you push the centre button it makes contact with the metal pin and closes the circuit with the centre shaft on the column. You could take a piece of wire and touch the metal at the base of the pin hole and the centre nut on the column. This should complete the circuit and the horn will sound. If it doesn't then you have a fault elsewhere in the system.
Nolan
Edited for lousy spelling.
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-25-2005).]
OK, the horn works, but I need the pin that is supposed to be in there to be able to use it properly (stuck a small screwdriver in to make sure it was all connected). Anyone have an extra one? (also posted in the mall)
I had lost my pin when I rebuilt my column. What I did was use a nail that I cut to length and ground the head down a bit to fit. Do you still have the plastic cap?
Here's what you need. The metal pin, the spring and the plastic retaining cap. The picture below shows how they go together. Then the spring goes over the pin and the platic cap goes over them both. The whole assembly slides into the hole in the colum with the fat end of the pin down and the cap is pushed in and then turns to lock in place.
Here is a picture of them in place.
Since I had misplaced my pin and spring I used a 2" nail with the end ground and a spring from a click pen. The end of the spring had to be flared out so that it wouldn't slip through the retainer. Not pretty and may not be exactly as the original but it works.
Heres a shot of the ground end of the nail:
Hope this helps. Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-25-2005).]
Note, this is for the GT/sport steering wheel with the center horn button. The wheel with the horn paddles uses a wire instead of a pin and connects to the switches in the paddle assembly.
JazzMan
[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 07-25-2005).]
My wheel has the center horn button - I have the nail and the spring, I'll just have to find something around the house that I can use for the plastic cap.
Here is a picture of the back of a stock GT horn button:
as you can see, there are actually two metal plates, these plates are not normally in contact with each other. The plate between the front button and the rear plate makes contact with the metal pin. You can see a small wear spot where the pin touches. The second plate makes contact with the shaft. When you press the button the two plates make contact with the pin, the steering column shaft and each other completing the circuit. No wires are required.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-29-2005).]
Found one at a boneyard yesterday, but it didn't fit properly because of the aftermarket steering wheel. We used the horn wiring from a Trans Am we had yanked, and rigged it up so it works. Thanks for all the help everyone.
