Ok, after all of the problems that I have had getting my engine running right, I'm getting a code 33 after the engine runs for about 10 seconds at a high (2000rpm) idle, at which time the engine dies.
Here is what I have established so far: -Fuel pressure is good, as well as the gas being good -Injectors have been cleaned & balanced -New distributor , cap, wires, rotor, plugs are getting good spark
That's the good stuff. Besides that: -The timing isn't set perfect yet, but regardless of where I put it, it does the same thing. -I have tried disconnecting the MAP sensor (per suggested in service manual) to put the system into backup mode and the engine would barely start, and run for just a few seconds at a low idle. -Even though I wouldn't normally try adjusting the throttle screw, when I did try I found out that the cap on it is missing and I can't get the screw to budge. Maybe it's been messed with, but why is it stuck in place? -I have looked for vacume leaks, but haven't found any yet.
Ok, so I have a few more ideas to try, but what do you guys think? Any ideas come to mind right away? Thanks for your help in advance.
-Cory
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08:11 PM
PFF
System Bot
2000RagTop Member
Posts: 3999 From: Sussex, (Milwaukee) Wi. USA, Earth Registered: Jun 2003
The ECM will set code 33 when a problem with the MAP sensor is detected (unusual low vacuum/high pressure). Check the vacuum hoses from the MAP sensor. Check all connections and replace the MAP sensor if necessary.
I was thinking about replacing it, but my service manual said that before I replace the MAP sensor, I should get the engine to the point that it runs deicently when the MAP sensor is disconnected (ECM goes into default mode and gives a standard reading that a correctly opperating MAP sensor would give.) So I'm concentrating on just getting it running right with the sensor disconnected.
[This message has been edited by gt40cory (edited 05-26-2005).]
I used a vacume tester and checked the vacume where the tube connects to the MAP. When the engine was running it pulled about 15 in of pressure. Nothing wrong there. Next I used a multi meter to check the voltage coming through the wires, and on the MAP sensor when the engine was running both idle and when I could get it to rev. About 2v-5v depending on the RPMs. That's good too, so the sensor is working well, as well as the vacume on it.
Next, while I had the car running (roughly) I sprayed some carb cleaner around the vacume hoses, and when I sprayed anywhere near where they passed under the plenium the engine would consistantly idle higher. So there must be a vacume leak, right?
So I pulled my plenium, took off each of my vacume hoses, visually checked them for cracks and then blew air through each one of them. Nothing. Could my actual plenium be leaking? I had new gaskets on it but I didn't actually use any sealant before I bolted it down, would you guys recommend using something like ultra black?
[This message has been edited by gt40cory (edited 05-26-2005).]
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02:49 PM
88Ironduke Member
Posts: 955 From: Willingboro, NJ Registered: Mar 2002
It definitely sounds like you have a vacume leak. Moreover if you're getting high idle AND a map sensor fault, check all the vacume lines again. They might very well be related issues. The intake manifold can leak, but I think it usually represents itself as glowing exhaust manifold more often than not. Take your time and ensure that you have a good MAP sensor, but even more important, its getting good vacume.
FWIW, don't touch the factory settings on the throttle. It is set at the factory and if you monkey around with it chances are it'll cause you a big headache in the future. Leave it alone. If the idle is problematic, pull the IAC motor and make sure its clean. The pintle assembly will get pretty nasty from the EGR system and crank case garbage coming in to the throttle body. Clean the IAC and its seat area.
If you're at the local yards, grab a MAP sensor off of a similar equipped car and pay for it.... (wink wink stomp stomp) A couple spares to use are always a good thing to have around in a pinch.
88Ironduke
------------------ Pilots with out maintainers are just pedestrians with a cool jacket and sunglasses. I.Y.A.M.Y.A.S.
edit fur spelung
[This message has been edited by 88Ironduke (edited 05-26-2005).]
I took out the IAC and it was pretty dirty. After cleaning it, should I adjust it at all? I read in another thread that it should be adjusted so that from the tip of the pintle to the gasket is 1&1/8 inch, but I can't seem to adjust it much at all. It's at 1", how do I change this if I need to?
Thanks for the help so far guys.
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04:30 PM
88Ironduke Member
Posts: 955 From: Willingboro, NJ Registered: Mar 2002
Did you move it out at all while cleaning it? If you managed to push it back in a little its no worries. Just bolt it up and the ECM will take care of itself when you start the car up.
So I put the plenium back on after reconnecting all of the vacume hoses and whatever I did seemed to clear up my vacume leak. It idles pretty well now, but it still boggs down pretty bad when I give it gas. I'm hoping that the new TPS that I got will fix the problem tomorrow when I put it on.
Ok, so I figured it out! I feel pretty humbled by my ignorance. I had a couple of spark plug wires on in the wrong order. That explains why it would idle, but not accelerate. But that wasn't the main problem. One of the wires on the two wire connector between the distributor and the coil was just barely holding on, which is why the car would just randomly cut out. If only our favorite cars were just a little younger.
It's taken me long enough to get this 2.8 running right; I guess that's what happens when you immediately drop a small block 350 into your first Fiero.
