My '88 Coupe has developed a persistent sweaking/rubbing/knocking kind of noise that we've narrowed down to being caused by a combination of my needing new shocks in the front; a lower ball joint that needs to be replaced on the front passenger side; and the ball bearings needing to be greased.

The next question is of course, how difficult is it to replace the lower ball joint and is it something I can do myself?

Secondly, I'm going to order th shocks and wanted to do that myself also. Anyone have instructions/guidance on the best way to approach it?

Thirdly, how do I go about getting the ball bearings/joints greased?

I've started reading through the Haynes and Chilton's manuals on the subject, but they don't offer alot of information on the '88. Most of the instructions relate to '84-'87, so I have to go back and search through the extra sections they added for the '88 to make sure I understand everything.

I think I'm finally nearing the end (or close to the end) of my major repairs, so I should be able to start driving the car beyond the immediate 3-4 blocks around my house pretty soon.

Any and all help is, as usual, much appreciated.

Thanks,
--Tress

------------------

I may not know alot about cars...but I make a Fiero look good!
"The Hottie" Coming Soon!

The Complete Hottie Diaries:
Preface: Babes Do It Better
Volume I: Checkup Ups and Downs: It Runs, Sort of
Volume II: Engine Adventures

Ball joints will have a zerk fitting. Using a grease gun, you inject grease into the ball joints.

If the boots are blown, but the joints are okay, you can replace just the boots and re-grease the joints.

There are 10 zerk fittings on the Fiero (pre '88) suspension. Make sure you grease them all. (Not sure about the '88s tho.)

Front bearings:

AS I RECALL the 1988 Fieros had SEALED HUBS up front. You cannot just "re-pack" them; they must be replaced.

I do not know if the front bearings are available for the '88s. If they are, you must remove the steering knuckles, have the old bearings pressed out, and have the new bearings pressed in.

May as well replace the ball joints that are making noise at the same time.

***

I suppose it is theoretically possible to rebuild sealed bearings, but it's not something I would want to undertake unless I had NO other options.

I hope that's some help.

Ed

All Fieros have 6 grease points on the front.
Each side has the following:
Lower ball joints (lower 'A' frame)
Upper ball joints (upper 'A' frame)
Tie rod ends (at the end of rod next to hub)

88 rears have none.

The lower ball joints are pressed in and if Auto Zone has the correct press you can do it yourself using the loan a tool program.
Space is an issue when changing the lower ball joint and is easiest to remove the caliper from the knuckle and remove the knuckle entirely from the car to get the press good and square the the A frame (arm). The A frame should also be supported to keep it from moving down by the spring. The spring will not fly out if the shock is installed as it runs in the middle of the spring but can come unseated.
You will need a 'pickle fork' to separate the tie rod end as well as the upper and lower ball joints. Don't forget to get it with the press.

Before you begin to work on the front end (besides the shocks) take it for an inspection for the front suspension. An alignment shop should do this for free, get with some of the local owners to see if there is a shop near you who do good work. They can tell you what needs replaced, watch them and talk to them as the inspection is done! That way it will be less likely to be "taken".
I think that most of your squeaking could be the bushings of the upper and lower control arms are dry and rusty, try spraying some white lithium grease on them (be liberal) and see if that helps.
The front wheel bearings are not servicable per say as replacement of only the bearings but I have heard some say the the cap on the rear can be removed and greased. I have not done this myself but I have had a cap off and it is (or appears) to be possible. New hubs are available, at a price, Rodney Dickman has them but you can often find good used ones in the mall or e-bay. You will NOT find them elsewhere new unless you are very very lucky. (I have some stashed but then again I have 9 88s) I would suggest that if your in need of one to bite the bullet and replace both of them and keep one of the old ones (if good) as a spare.
After you get items replaced an alignment is strongly recommended!!

The front shocks ar generally easy but sometimes the upper nut is difficult by hand and needs to be cut off, either by a hack saw (takes forever and a few blades) or a heat wrench (torch) and takes just a second of two. The problem is that the rod spins in the shock as the nut is turned and no real way to hold it still.

Your other points have been covered.

[This message has been edited by Indiana_resto_guy (edited 05-03-2005).]

To repack the 88 front hubs, pop the rear dust cover and the grease and rear ball bearing will be exposed. Get a needle attachment for your grease gun and slide the needed through the rear bearing and into the front one. Pump until the new grease starts to come through the rear one. Move over 1 ball bearing space and repeat all the way around. Then spin the bearing about 10 times and do it again. I even drilled and tapped my dust cover in the center and installed a grease zert on both sides. JUst make sure it clears the bearing stud when reinstalled and then you can fill it with more grease.

I replaced my lower ball joints when I had the A-Arms off, so this will not work while on the car. A 3" section of fiero exhaust pipe works great for the lower support to push the ball joint out the bottom with a hydraulic press. To install just use the 3" pipe on the other side.

Just picked up the replacement ball joint and rented the tools from AutoZone. I got a ball joint extractor and a ball joint press tool. I'm about to check the Chilton's manual and plan out my course of action before I get started.

About how long do you think it'll take to do this? I'm only changing the one that's making the noise on the passenger side right now. If I get that on okay, then I'll go back and get the other one just to make it even.

Any last advice? Let me know.

--Tress

If you have everything and being your first time and everything goes well. I would say less than two hours.
Have you picked up a grease gun yet? I have not seen a pic of one but I could have missed it.

Finished the passenger side; test drove it and no more squeaking/pounding/bouncing! Now the car rides so much better on that side in particular. So I of course went back to AutoZone and picked up another one and I'll replace the driver's side lower ball joint tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys!

quote Originally posted by Indiana_resto_guy: The front shocks ar generally easy but sometimes the upper nut is difficult by hand and needs to be cut off, either by a hack saw (takes forever and a few blades) or a heat wrench (torch) and takes just a second of two. The problem is that the rod spins in the shock as the nut is turned and no real way to hold it still.

Indiana---do the new shocks come with the screw/rod that the top nut goes on? I haven't seen the new ones yet and haven't removed the old ones, so I don't know what they're supposed to look like. I noticed that the top was spinning when I tried to remove the shock. Do I need the part that's spinning or can I just cut it off? Is there a replacement? At first I thought it was a screw, but if it's some kind of rod that's replaceable (easily replaceable, that is) then I'll just cut the sucker off.

BTW---Haven't picked up a grease gun yet, but I'll get one tomorrow when I go return the tools.

--Tress

[This message has been edited by Miss-Tress007 (edited 05-03-2005).]

quote Originally posted by Miss-Tress007: Finished the passenger side Indiana---do the new shocks come with the screw/rod that the top nut goes on? I haven't seen the new ones yet and haven't removed the old ones, so I don't know what they're supposed to look like. I noticed that the top was spinning when I tried to remove the shock. Do I need the part that's spinning or can I just cut it off? Is there a replacement? At first I thought it was a screw, but if it's some kind of rod that's replaceable (easily replaceable, that is) then I'll just cut the sucker off. BTW---Haven't picked up a grease gun yet, but I'll get one tomorrow when I go return the tools. --Tress

Yes, that is part of the shock. It is the end of the piston rod, split the nut or cut it off. Your new shock comes with new hardware to include, nut, two cupped washers and two rubber bushings. Assemble them as removed, one cupped washer (cup up) one rubber bushing (with the small sleeve up) pull to extend the rod and insert the shock from the bottom through the center of the spring. Secure the top quickly with rubber bushing (small sleve down) cupped washer (cup side down) and the nut. Just get it started good as the rod will retract as you may need to secure the rod to tighten the nut. Install the bolts on the bottom of shock absorber and tighten, the back up to the top and tighten nut till the rubber bushing squashes down about the same diameter as the washer. (double check after test drive and tighten as necessary)

If your wanting to try the wheelbearing trick don't forget to get a needle for the grease gun as well as high temp or WTR (wide temprature range) grease that you can use in both bearings and joints.
Better keep the tools till the drivers side is done though
How long did it take you to do?

[This message has been edited by Indiana_resto_guy (edited 05-04-2005).]

If the bearings are worn in the front hub assy. then they should be replaced, repacking will not repair a bad bearing. They are held to the knuckle by 3 torx bolts and are most likely rusted in the knuckle, use some PB blaster, remove the bolts (best done with an air impact tool) then tap the old assy out.
E-bearing made a run of 2500 sets of the 88 front hub, and once they are gone, I do not know if they will manufacture any more.
Even if you do not replace the front hub, it is a good idea to have a new set, IF you intend to keep the car.
BTW, the pics of your head gasket removal were first class............Paul

quote Originally posted by Indiana_resto_guy: Yes, that is part of the shock. It is the end of the piston rod, split the nut or cut it off.

The top nut on the 88 front shocks can be a pain.. They always sieze to the piston rod and the rod just turns so the nut won't loosten. I used a nut splitter to break mine off. (As in the image below). It worked great. I got the splitter at a local tool shop, but you can get them at most major tool stores...

[This message has been edited by Poncho Jim (edited 05-04-2005).]

What's the deal with the shocks?

If you haven’t got the "88 Big Book" you might want to look into it. They are chocked full of so much more info than the Chilton’s and Haynes manuals.
Especially if you are getting into the end of their usefulness, this will really help ya out in regards to repairs that you are looking to complete.

I snapped a few pics of the Ball Joint Repair Section out of the book so that you can see what they are saying that is required for removal and replacement. I had to resize and alter the coloring on it, so if you like the full size files, they are large, LMK and I can E-mail those out to ya.

Upper ball Joint - 88 Fiero