Thts a perfect pic. Thanks man.

I highlighted some areas where it looks like they could fit. the yellow dots I am for sure they would all fit there with no interference from anything. Mounting them a bit lower in the pink location is hard to tell as I can't see down the whole line of the intake manifold so I am unsure if there are little brackets or what not in there that could interfere.

Yes the red dots on that manfiold it looks like direct port nozzles could fit in there with plenty of room to spare. Well hidden and noone would know esp with the cover plate on there.

I likes it a lot.

On the later style manifolds you could prob mount them where the pink dots are or hell if that wont' work the yellow would work most likely it just wont' be hidden but who cares really.

SH

quote Originally posted by ltlfrari: Looking good, must finish mine some day. What did you do for the oil dipstick, I cannot see it in the pics you posted. Can you post a pic of the engine from the eyeline of the deck lid so we can see how much your engine stands above the deck lid line?

The dipstick was just bent over like Darth did.

The engine sticks above the rear firewall about an inch or less, it'll come down when I put in the dog bone. The engine has to rotate back quite a bit yet. I'd take a picture for you but it I'm out of batteries, I'll pick some up later.

You have to get yours done man, you may be going for the longest engine swap record

quote Originally posted by Fierobsessed: Even better.... This is of the upper assembly from a 96-97 motor and it does not have the injectors in it. There is some room to play with under the manifold. The most important thing to notice? the open valley. You could probably sneak the direct port nitrous underneith the lower intake

Can the 96-97 intake manifold fit the 95 engine? My 3.4TDC is a 95 Crate motor from what I hear. What are the differences in the motors?

You MUST pull the intake to get them out, But, IMHO, its probably easier to pull the intake off to change the plugs (on the monte carlo) then it is to change the plugs on the earlier motors without removing the intake. Pre 96 manifolds have coolant in them and have the throttle body integrated. they aren't the easiest to remove.

If you use the lower and upper intake, throttle body as well as the fuel rail togather an assembly, its doable. The Intake ports on the heads have not changed.

You don't need to remove the intake to remove 95 and older spark plugs. The intake does not cover the sparkplug holes. I have also replaced the steel coolant lines with longer rubber ones so I can remove my intake without taking off the coolant lines. Can't imagine having to remove the intake once its running, still need to drop the motor to replave the front sparkplugs anyways.

I have never heard of anyone dropping the engine to change the front plugs. I didn't have to. I just disconnected the dogbone, used a quick clamp to pull the engine rearward, then put the 5/8 spark plug socket down the hole alittle then one short extension, then fed in another, put the ratchet on the end, and voila! Probably the most tricky part was getting the ignition wires out of the head. Thats when the engine needed to be pried the hardest, they still rubbed the rear window on the way out.

I just wanted to say great write up, thank you for keeping us posted

Well here is your harness almost ready to ship out to you.

I coudnt have done it without a little help from my very knowledgable wiring experts

Hey thanks Erik, didn't see this come back up. Looks great

Car is going to the exhaust shop today, should have some pics by Friday.

I got my car back from the exhaust shop today. Its done 100% up to the muffler and has some temporary tips made out to the stock exhaust outlets until I find a set of 2.5" tips that I like.

Here it is on the lift, last night there must have been 6 people around it asking questions about the motor. I thought that only happened to the V-8 guys!

This picture shows the temporary tips I had them make. Atleast it can get around under its own power for awhile like this

Here is the pipe my father in law made that goes under the cradle to the muffler.

[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 10-08-2004).]

Sweet looking car , I like red with the fastback and the wheels really enhance the look. Pretty soon the motor will back up the looks

Thanks, I really like the look of your car as well, black on black looks cool. Your GTZ wheels are perfect for your car.

Looking Good, Keep up the good work !

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In the last photo is the muffler tips crooked or is it the angle .

Just temp outlets until I find some tips I like, then they will be installed properly.

its alive..... ALLLIIIVVVEEE!!!!

She runs! woohoo and holy crap is it loud and obnoxious!! Looks like resonator tips are in the near future.

Between Darth's prom and Erik's wiring harness, this motor is plug and play, its beautiful!

Now I just need to fill it with coolant, make my dog bone and replace my shifter cable. I should have first drive impressions some time next week.

Couple questions, can I run my O2 sensor on my crossover or do I need to run it downstream of my Y pipe? I know its ideal to have it read all 6 cylinders but will it run properly off of 3?

Thanks!

http://home.mchsi.com/~houseofsakowitz/frstrt.wmv

Here is a link to the first fire of the 3.4. Sounds pretty good.

WELL DONE.... Atta boy, now to motivate my A$$

Norm

quote Originally posted by crzyone: Couple questions, can I run my O2 sensor on my crossover or do I need to run it downstream of my Y pipe? I know its ideal to have it read all 6 cylinders but will it run properly off of 3? Thanks!

It will actually make no difference if it is running off 3 or 6, theoretically. So unless there is a difference in the cylinders, which there shouldn't be, you'll be fine.The O2 sensor reads a percentage, not quantity. I've been using mine on my Z34 on only 3 for almost a year now, and my air/fuel is dead on.

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1992 Lumina Z34 5-speed
14.78 @ 92.68
1992 Lumina Z34 5-speed
Offered to donated its organs to Fiero

Well just an update. Today was the first day I got to drive the fiero with its new motor. These last few days I replaced the power steering pump pulley (don't drive these cars without a dogbone) Filled and bled the cooling system, made my dogbone, had the exhaust shop weld in my O2 sensor bung and a test drive.

The car feels amazing, the 2.8 can't compare in any rpm. This motor wants to rev all the way to 7200rpm. I've now found out that I will need a new tach, the rpms raise so fast I need to be able to see when to shift. Found a nice one that goes to 9k, I'll need to install it.

The sound of this engine is another great feature. Some people like the roar of a sbc, well this engine screams like a ferrari. I will make a video within the next week and post it here for all to see. Its damn impressive.

Thats all for now!

Wow! What a sweet ride! It sounds awesome in the video. ( must keep 4.9...must keep 4.9...) Did you ever post another video somewhere?

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-Rick Stewart
85GT 4.9/Isuzu 5-spd in progress...

I've tried to make some good videos but the weather makes it pretty impossible. About 2 weeks after that first start up video it started snowing. The roads are always pretty slick. Even when the pavement looks pretty dry I can still light up the tires in 2nd and make nice long patches of ice.

Thanks for the compliment.

cryzone; thanks for posting all that incentive for me; I am ready to go out in my -25C garage and get back at 'er after hearing that short sound clip!! Hard to tell just how loud it is, in your opinion will it get attention from the 'wrong' crowd......?
Also if you could post the info on your muffler; ie length or whatever you could and maybe I can match that to their catalogue.
I didn't see anything about a clutch; could have missed it. What are you doing about that if anything?
Great thread and I hope to see a follow up with sound (and smoke LOL)!
GP
Ottawa

Yeah I've been skiing in Bannf in January, and I don't think I ever saw unfrozen pavement anywhere the whole time! There are some awesome Fiero roads out there. Take your time, drive safe!

-Rick

I've had 2 instances where I have been beside a cop at a red light. I try and baby it as slow as I can off the line so I don't get pulled over. Its pretty loud, loud enough to where I think I may get pulled over with a spirited take off.

I do not recomend the magnaflow muffler. It sounds quite raspy in the mid rpm range from outside the car. The next muffler I am going to try is a Borla Camaro single in dual out muffler. Its also set up better. You can see one of my outlets is higher than the other.

I'm using a stock fiero clutch and a Z24 flywheel. Seems to hold up just fine. Next week I am taking the fiero to Nevada (wife is American) and I'll try a few good launches on nice dry pavement and see how it holds. I know when I first drove the car I tried a clutch dump and it slipped. The flywheel had just been machined and the clutch wasn't broken in yet so thats pretty hard to go by.

Kills so far with this swap include 2 Acura Integras, 1 350Z and an assortment of 15-17 second 4 cylinder hondas that think they are quick. I have the admiration of every kid 18 and under. I have a rep as the car to beat in my town of 10,000.

I have lost one race, it was when I was test driving the swap. Didn't even have half an hour of road time when I turned around on a devided highway to head back into town when a car started riding my ass. I was going about 50mph in 3rd gear when the other car came up beside me. It was an early 80s fox body mustang that had nice paint and rims. I punched my car and he did as well. All I saw was his car squat right down and go roaring away.... That thing had some serious power, left me standing there. I'm sure my car would kill a stock fox body, but that thing took off like he had 400hp.

Any questions, ask away!

[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 01-21-2005).]

That pisses me off. I have a lot done to my Z34, and I can barely beat a 350Z. I raced one at the track and got him by 2 tenths, all he had was a K&N intake. Here you are, beating them, with a stock motor. I need a Fiero NOW.

I'm surprised you didn't like the Magnaflow, I love them on my Z34. It does have that mid rpm rasp, but that was caused by the headers. before them, there was no rasp at all. I also have a Magnaflow cat and resonator, plus I have dual mufflers. The setup I'm planning to run on my Fiero (soon I hope) is a true dual 2.5" with dual Magnaflow mufflers. I'd like to inocrporate resonators cuz I think they do holy things to an exhaust note, but there isn't enough room. A guy named RedZMonte had a MCZ34 with Borlas, and it sounded pretty sweet, and identical to mine, at idle. Unfortunately I never heard it while driving, just at idle.

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1992 Lumina Z34 5-speed For Sale, modified(high 13s), or stock
14.78 @ 92.68
1992 Lumina Z34 5-speed
Stock, takes my butt to work...Sometimes...
3.4L TDC V6, getting built to about 430hp at 8000rpm for a 88GT

crzyone, If you don't mine me asking, roughly what was the cost of the swap?

SaskatoonFiero
Justin

For a quality swap, plan to spend around $2000 plus the motor. My engine will be comming out in the spring and I'll be redoing alot of the swap. I was in a hurry to get it in and running, now I want to make it look good. Route some hoses differently, paint some engine parts, mainly try and hide as much wiring and such as I can.

Well, this is what happened to my 3.4dohc. I had my dogbone mounted to the engine lift point like I've seen on a few other cars.

Since I had my dogbone mounted off to the side of the engine lift point it put twisting forces on the engine lift and the power steering bracket. They just couldn't take the forces and the ps pump bracket broke. So let this be a lesson, make sure you mount it with front to back forces only.

3.4dohc is considered sold as of today, it was a fun project.

Can that fracture really be repaired by welding it or does the entire assembly need to be replaced? What material is the bracket made of?

Thanks
Sour

It is aluminum. But so long as it isn't leaking coolant, you cna leave it cracked, it shouldn't hurt anything.

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quote Originally posted by crzyone: Since I had my dogbone mounted off to the side of the engine lift point it put twisting forces on the engine lift and the power steering bracket. They just couldn't take the forces and the ps pump bracket broke. So let this be a lesson, make sure you mount it with front to back forces only. 3.4dohc is considered sold as of today, it was a fun project.

ouch - that makes me a bit nervous about mounting the doogbone there..

I'm going to have to look at alternatives

just keeping this out of archives.

glad you brought this back up! I remember noticing that breakage but didn't read it thoroughly I guess.
did you attach the dogbone to the (heavy) steel lifting lug/loop? Was it attached to the original points or had something been changed or removed?
If it was all stock and not compromised in any way then I am really surprised that you had that breakage. That must have been an incredible twisting force if it flexed THAT much!!
I was planning on hooking directly onto that point too (but have replicated the 3.4's engine/trans mounts) but would like to know if somehow this mount was allowed to move/flex a bit more????

LMK pls
gp

Sorry, didn't see a reply to this.

The failure was my fault. Stock engine mount, stock trani mounts. They offer alot of movement, and alot of force is placed on the dogbone, especially if the motor is allowed to move as much as it was. If I was to do it again I would use poly mounts everywhere and a second dogbone. That lifting poing wasn't designed to take repeated forward and back motion. I made it worse by installing the dog bone off to the side which also allowed for some twisting forces as well.

There's a world if difference between stocker 2.8 mounts (especially tired 15+ year old ones), and either Dodge truck mounts or poly mounts. I must have been able to rock the motor with a finger or two several inches on the stock mounts - on 79 Dodge truck mounts, I can shake it as hard as I can and it barely moves at all. It makes a huge difference on how much the engine will twist when the dogbone is yanking that bracket.