I am assuming to remove the 84-87 front cross member, you have to cut it out? I that correct? Is it hard?

thanks
Matt

Only if the bolts are very rusty! The crossmember is bolted, not welded in. You can leave the steering rack and the suspension installed on it and drop the whole thing as an assembly. You'll need to remove the shocks and unbolt the rear pivot point on the lower control arms. It's not too bad of a job depending on the condition of the bolts.

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Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga.
"You can't have too many toys!"
1988 Fiero GT
1966 Porsche 911
Van's RV-6 airplane-under construction

Please do not cut up your front crossmember!

As mentioned above, you need to detach the rear ends of the lower control arms from the frame. You also need to:

-- Remove the "skid bars" between the crossmember and radiator
-- Disconnect the steering column from the rack
-- Detach the shocks from the lower control arms, or just remove the shocks
-- Detach the brake calipers from the spindles, or detach the hoses from the calipers
-- Detach the coolant tubes from the crossmember (10mm bolts, hard to reach)
-- Disconnect the sway bar end links

Hopefully, I didn't forget anything.

If the crossmember bolts break it's a huge PITA, just cut the frame rail open then weld on a new nut from the top. I broke like 4 cobalt drill bits and snapped an ezee out trying to get them out.

i have been fighting with a crossmember last weekend
i found that you should start with the LCA bolt first
with the coil spring stll in place.
it helps to keep the inner metal sleeve from spinning with the bolt.
use lotts of rustbuster let it soak for a couple days

I'm swapping the front cross member from my 84 fiero to an 86GT piece. As mentioned above, use a lot of PB Blaster type product. I've found that the steering rack bolts break more often than not. Kick Hill had a pile of about 30-40 cross members in the spot I was looking, and about 15-20 had broken rack bolts...

Luckily, USING A TORCH before I even attempted to turn the bolt, worked in removing every bolt without a single breakage.

quote Originally posted by HappyFiero: i have been fighting with a crossmember last weekend i found that you should start with the LCA bolt first with the coil spring stll in place. it helps to keep the inner metal sleeve from spinning with the bolt. use lotts of rustbuster let it soak for a couple days

Rust? I thought Fieros were made out of fiberglass