I want to get to 180 hp on my 2.8. According to my simulation software, I should be able to get into the high 14s if I can get to 180 hp. My current mods are in my signature.

I figure that stock is 140 hp. My 1.6 rockers and sprint headers are good for another 15% or 21 horses. I need 19 more hp.

Any suggestions on how I can get there?

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85 Fiero GT with 1.6 rocker arms, aluminum flywheel, Sprint Headers, Thermotech Black Silk Exhaust coating, WCF clutch, SS brake lines, Rear anti-sway bar, KYB shocks, K&N air filter, removed water seperator.
Removed: complete A/C system, Cruise control, coil/alternator fan
92 Dodge Stealth RT TT with too many mods to list

I forgot to add. Any mods must be either smog legal or smog hideable.

So I can't remove my catalytic converter.

Toss the 2.8 and put in a 3.4 pushrod? Visibly the same as the 2.8.

Matt

[This message has been edited by mattm (edited 04-23-2005).]

Get one of our high flow intake manifolds, the stock manifold will almost negate or at the very least, limit gains from most anything else you do aside from a turbo etc, even then, they will help those too. Don't take my word for it, go look at the write ups and dyno results etc here on PFF. See 'hi-flo updates.'

That manifold looks good. The problem is that it definately doesn't look stock. If it were cast aluminum then I could get away with it. The welds and steel give it away.

Unless that manifold is CARB certified, I will be failed on the visual inspection.

I'm doing the same thing, but I think your initial numbers are a bit out.

First off, the headers are good for at best 10 hp, but when you add 1.6 rockers they just don't have much to work with on the stock engine, so you need much more to use the 1.6's capability.

Your aluminum flywheel is iffy. It is good for fast spin up but not so good out of the hole. The iron flywheel has more inherent torque for launches.

You have to remember that a 20 year old engine is unlikely to still be producing 140hp. So you need to ensure your running gear are within specs. Compression? Timing chain slop? Main and sleeve bearing clearances?

Then you have to get more air to the cylinders.

There is a new high volume plenum available, but failing that, the Edelbrock Performer Plus intake and a carb will get you closer.

The Edelbrock flows at 360 cfm versus 318 for your stock plenum.

Your heads have to be ported and your exhaust ports polished to give those 1.6's a chance.

You need at least a 2.25" exhaust. You can use a high flow CAT, but the stock 2" exhaust just won't get you there.

Some guys will advise a cam upgrade also. And you can't lose sight of the power pulley.

In short, the HP calculation is not linear. In other words, all the pieces work together.

180 hp is do-able, but it will take alot of mods.

Here are mine.

Engine stripped and put within specs, .050 oversized hypereutectic pistions, 1.6 rockers, power pulley, new 94 amp alternator, MSD ignition/coil, Holley 2300 carb w/K&N, Edelbrock intake, ported&polished heads, valves ground, exhaust manifolds ported, 2.5" exhaust, Bully stage II clutch, vacuum advance distributor (tuned by a pro).

I figure if I can break 15 secs. I'll be doing real well. (I was 15.4 sec. stock) If I get a true 175 hp I'll be doing well. If I hit 180 hp I'll be ecstatic.

Hope this helps. Expect some discussion on this one. There are alot of opinions.

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Arn

try some good ignition mods, bolt ons, i did this...

1. 1.6 rockers
2. advanced timeing
3. accel spark plug wires
4 accel dist cap
4. accel dist rotor
5. copper spark plugs .
6. mobil 1 full synthetic oil 5w20 (repalced 10w40 conventinal crap)
7. high flow cat
8. removed water seperater shitz and giggles
9. K&N air Filter
10. MSD ignition modual
11. MSD ignition coil
12. MSD 6A box

people here will say im an idiot, but if your only needing 19 more hp then ^ might be the way to go, i know for a damn fact that i gained 18 to 25 out of that!, and if you have a very strong ignition system then you can delete the cat and still pass tests, unless they look for a cat, then in that case hollow it out.

just try it, im only tring to help

Since you have the sprints and the 1.6 rockers, You now need the Darrell Morse ported/bored intake (since you want to keep it looking stock.) The problem is the 1.6 rockers and the sprints are only good for about 8-10hp not 21hp. Add in the bored/ported intake will get you to about 15hp total. Going to a larger exhaust system like the Borla or the WCF 2.5" system will gain you another 5-6hp and you'll be up to the 21hp. Also the underdrive pulley from the Fiero Store is good for a few HP as well.
To get to 180hp (without NOS or forced induction.) you really need to go into the engine. Have the heads ported/polished and install the Crane H260 cam (with the 1.6 rockers.) or install the Crane H272 with 1.52 rockers. The 2.8L in stock form was set-up from the factory to flow well for the stock parts, adding modified parts, The engine needs more help to flow. To get more power you need to increase the flow thru the engine (intake, head, and exhaust) and only doing internal mods, NOS, or forced induction will get you there. Basically keeping the engine looking stock and using bolt-ons will gain you about 25hp. Head work and a cam will get you abouth the other 15hp. So you should be in the 175-180hp range and still pass emission testing.

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Happiness isn't around the corner...
Happiness IS the corner.
ZZ4 Powered !!

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 04-23-2005).]

not this again...... LoL! Arn has some very good information as far as building a 2.8/3.4/whatever. You also might want to shoot a pm Oreif's way, he is also very knowledgeable of the 2.8/3.1/3.4 and its performance.

btw, forumla, did you ever get to the drags?

Edit: nm about that oreif part, he beat me to it

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[This message has been edited by JamesCurtis (edited 04-23-2005).]

quote Originally posted by 88 forumla: try some good ignition mods, bolt ons, i did this... 1. 1.6 rockers 2. advanced timeing 3. accel spark plug wires 4 accel dist cap 4. accel dist rotor 5. copper spark plugs . 6. mobil 1 full synthetic oil 5w20 (repalced 10w40 conventinal crap) 7. high flow cat 8. removed water seperater shitz and giggles 9. K&N air Filter 10. MSD ignition modual 11. MSD ignition coil 12. MSD 6A box i know for a damn fact that i gained 18 to 25 out of that!, and if you have a very strong ignition system then you can delete the cat and still pass tests, unless they look for a cat, then in that case hollow it out.

18-25???? Are you going to change these numbers again? Remember the last time you claimed 8hp from just changing the oil until too many people called you on it then you went back 3 weeks later and changed it to .8 hp and denied the original 8hp claim.

All those mods you list are only good for about 5hp. Without increasing flow thru the intake or exhaust the 1.6 rockers don't do a whole lot.

Also Doug lives in California, There emission testing is more involved so gutting the cat isn't an option.

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: I want to get to 180 hp on my 2.8. According to my simulation software, I should be able to get into the high 14s if I can get to 180 hp. My current mods are in my signature. I figure that stock is 140 hp. My 1.6 rockers and sprint headers are good for another 15% or 21 horses. I need 19 more hp. Any suggestions on how I can get there?

I'll second everything Arn said, very good advice

Hitting 180HP with a 2.8 and staying smog legal could be a challenge. I don't know how many miles are on your 2.8, but if it's up there you're looking at less than 140HP stock.

More air flow is a must. The stock 2.8 intake just sucks. Best thing you can do is have Darrell Morse port the TB/Plenum, and match the middle and lower intakes. If you want to spend the $$ have the heads ported and matched to the intake/headers. Get rid of that stock exhaust and go to at least a 2.25" mandrel system with a good free flow muffler. Now get a good cam in there. Not too radical or your emissions will go out the window.

actually, forget all of the above, get a wet nitrous kit ($350 maybe) and you'll get there no problem

Here's is some food for thought: I have a carbed 3.4 V6 (Holley 390cfm 4bbl) I bought from a forum member who built it from the block up (Oreif). He did an excellent job on this motor: it has rebuilt and ported heads, sprint headers, roller timing set, roller rockers, high lift cam, shaved heads to up compression to about 9.5:1, crane HI-6R ignition system, ....the engine put out 223hp at the flywheel after it was built. There is basically nothing left to modify. Only tuning of the carb for max efficiency. If I slapped the fiero intake on there....even ported...I would probably be lucky to get over 195hp with this setup.

All that work on a bigger motor and only 223hp....WITH a 4bbl carb mind you. Now think of the amount of work you'll need to do to get an old 2.8 into the 180hp range while keeping it smog legal.

you need to go inside the motor

good luck to you

Dave

[This message has been edited by ditch (edited 04-24-2005).]

I don't think bolt-ons are gonna get you into the 14's (or 180HP for that matter). If you're dead-set on 14's, start saving up for an engine rebuild.

Or, you could just use a 50-shot of nitrous...

Just so everyone knows, I have a rebuilt engine with just 8k miles on it. Compression, timing chain, etc are all in factory specs or better.

I only counted two items in my HP calculations, the 1.6 rockers and the headers. I have done research on both. 1.6 rockers/cam are good for a solid 10% hp gain or in other words, 14 hp. I also researched the headers and they are also good for a solid 5% or 7 hp in this case. Together, that is 21 hp.

I'm not trying to exaggerate the numbers here. I did not count any of my other mods. Trust me, if you ever ride in my car, you can definately feel the extra hp over stock.

As far as the aluminum flywheel, that does not add hp per se. It reduces drive train loss by 4-5%. So our stock 18% should be reduced to 15% or maybe less. So a stock engine would produce 115 hp at the wheels. Instead with an aluminum flywheel should produce 120 hp at the wheels. I'm not factoring this in because I'm looking for 180 crank hp.

The power pulley suggestion looks good. I seriously doubt that it adds 6% as the Fiero Store says. Most underdrive pulleys that I've seen add about 4% at the wheels or just under 1% at the crank. This will help with my wheel hp but won't help much towards getting to my 180 crank hp goal. So this would give me 1 hp at the crank and reduce drive train loss by 3%.

My ignition is almost completely new. New wires, plugs, cap, rotor, coil and ignition module. I have read many different things regarding ignition upgrades. The manufacturers of those upgrades all claim up to 5% hp gains. I have read a few articles that point out that gains are only made if you have an old ignition system that is wearing out. I will have to see an ignition upgrade that increases hp on a new car before I believe their numbers.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions so far. I'm taking them all in and considering them.

First off, as others have said already, the mods you have will not give you 21HP.
Those headers, at the most will give 9-10 and the 1.6 rockers will give 4-5.
Since you have to pass a visual Cali test you have to forget the manifold Francess T makes and instead go for some ported stock units done by Darrell Morse.
Darrell will bore out the throttle body and upper plenum to match. He can also port & gasket match the middle and lower intakes to help out flow. Here's Darrell's website so you can contact him: http://www.diginostics.com/Darrell_Morse/darrell_morse.html
You will also need to have a good porting job done on the heads.
A Borla exhaust has been dyno proven to give 7HP gain which will also help. A high flow cat from Catco will also help slightly although it will probably be difficult to get done in Cali.
The Borla's a catback system so it is completely legal.
As Oreif already mentioned; a Crane 260 cam would work well in your car and you can keep your 1.6 rockers which will put the 260 close to 272 specs. The 260 has passed emission testing before so there shouldn't be a problem there.
An underdrive pulley will help and certainly be completely eco-nazi passable. Rememnber though, if you use a pulley, make sure you have a new alternator along with it. The stock alternators on these cars are old and the gauge in the car is not accurate so they are many times wekaened already. When you ad an underdrive pulley to a weakened alt. it shows up big time. I've used a pulley on two different Fieros I've owned now and had no problems with charging but I did replace the alternator both times.

A good aftermarket coil like the Accel part# 140008 (note; this coil will not fit int eh stock location and has to be mounted somewhere else) or the MSD part# 6226 will work well along with a good set of performance wires.
I would also suggest using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Not only will this help tune the engine with the mods you have but it will also help you pass the emissions testing if you happen to fail after doing all this. All you have to do is knock the pressure down for the test and then back up after the test. Knocking it down will lean it out some (be careful, don't go to far!) and help it pass. Yes it's cheating but it works.

------------------

one more thing:

if you're willing to spend the money on a cat-back system, try West Coast Fiero. They have a 2.5" catback system for $415. You can get it with a flowmaster for only $52 more. Cheaper than a Borla. This seems like a better deal than spending $600 on a borla from the fierostore. That's why I went to WCF. Only thing is it's not stainless like the borla. It's available in stainless, but it's more $$.

Dave

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: I only counted two items in my HP calculations, the 1.6 rockers and the headers. I have done research on both. 1.6 rockers/cam are good for a solid 10% hp gain or in other words, 14 hp. I also researched the headers and they are also good for a solid 5% or 7 hp in this case. Together, that is 21 hp.

If you do a search thru the archives for the screen name 1FST2M6, You'll see he actually dyno'd 2.8L engines with 1.6 rockers and Sprints as well as ported/bored intake, port stock exhaust manifolds, Aftermarket headers, aftermarket ignition systems, and yes even the "Tornado" (it lost power!.)
With ported/bored intake and heads, The 1.6 rockers will make more power, But by themselves they won't. When you make a change, You need to change everything in the flow path in order to gain the most.

I performed a few more searches. It looks like my best options are to port and polish my upper and lower intake, buy a complete WCF 2.5" exhaust from the downpipe back and get a power pulley. Those three together should be under 1k.

It looks like the intake is a significant restriction on these cars. I saw one person post that he saw a 27 hp gain after he ported and polished his upper and lower intake plenum. 27 sounds a bit too high but I do believe that there are gains to be made there.

I'm thinking about doing a test later on today. I'll hook up my vacuum guage to the upper intake plenum, then go WOT. That should give me an indication of how much restriction is in the intake. Ideally, there should be very little vacuum.

If I get ahold of an extra pair of heads and lower intake, I'm going to deck them for 9:1 compression and port them. That may be a while down the road but should be enough for a few more horses.

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: That manifold looks good. The problem is that it definately doesn't look stock. If it were cast aluminum then I could get away with it. The welds and steel give it away. Unless that manifold is CARB certified, I will be failed on the visual inspection.

You can always do what I'm doing: Keep the stock intakes and swap them back in long enough to pass smog. Then go right back to the High Flow manifold for another 2 years.

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: I performed a few more searches. It looks like my best options are to port and polish my upper and lower intake, buy a complete WCF 2.5" exhaust from the downpipe back and get a power pulley. Those three together should be under 1k. It looks like the intake is a significant restriction on these cars. I saw one person post that he saw a 27 hp gain after he ported and polished his upper and lower intake plenum. 27 sounds a bit too high but I do believe that there are gains to be made there. I'm thinking about doing a test later on today. I'll hook up my vacuum guage to the upper intake plenum, then go WOT. That should give me an indication of how much restriction is in the intake. Ideally, there should be very little vacuum. If I get ahold of an extra pair of heads and lower intake, I'm going to deck them for 9:1 compression and port them. That may be a while down the road but should be enough for a few more horses.

Are you just ignoring what the above posts are telling you? Your post makes it look like you didn't even read their responses and the people that are replying are some of the most knowledgable people in this forum... you did some more searches and found out exactly what people are telling you about in this thread. Sigh... I just don't understand why newer folks just won't listen to the guys that have had Fiero's and other 60V6 cars for decades, waded through all the BS and who have already done the testing. Its good to learn for yourself, but don't brush off help or it may not be there when you need it...

quote Originally posted by carbon: Are you just ignoring what the above posts are telling you? Your post makes it look like you didn't even read their responses and the people that are replying are some of the most knowledgable people in this forum... you did some more searches and found out exactly what people are telling you about in this thread. Sigh... I just don't understand why newer folks just won't listen to the guys that have had Fiero's and other 60V6 cars for decades, waded through all the BS and who have already done the testing. Its good to learn for yourself, but don't brush off help or it may not be there when you need it...

If you want to put it that way, yes I am ignoring most of it. This is not the 1st car I ever owned and it certainly isn't the highest performance car that I ever owned. I have seen over the years of my own experience in other platforms that things that were taken as written in stone are often wrong.

If you had read my posts, then you will see that I am taking things into consideration. I also am not taking everything posted as holy scripture. If you didn't notice, some of the posters have asked me to do some research in the forum. I did as they asked and I have found more information that I was looking for.

From your post, it sounds like you think I should just do everything that they say and my car will produce the numbers that I want. I have learned the hard way on other cars that failure to do your own research and tests can cost you thousands of dollars of wasted money. What works for someone's car does not always works on your car with your specific circumstances.

[This message has been edited by Doug85GT (edited 04-24-2005).]

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: I performed a few more searches. It looks like my best options are to port and polish my upper and lower intake, buy a complete WCF 2.5" exhaust from the downpipe back and get a power pulley. Those three together should be under 1k. .

That's the way to go....get more air in and move it out easier.

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: If I get ahold of an extra pair of heads and lower intake, I'm going to deck them for 9:1 compression and port them. That may be a while down the road but should be enough for a few more horses.

If you're interrested, I have a set of used 2.8 heads with the exhaust side already hogged out. You would just have to port out the intake side. They're fully assembled and worked fine when I removed them from my engine. I also have a lower intake.

You could have both the heads and intake for the cost of shipping if you want them.

Dave

[This message has been edited by ditch (edited 04-24-2005).]

can anyone tell me exactly how they got into the plenum ot polish the innards? lol. If you're referring to the middle intake, have fun btw- don't listen to 88 forumla, he doesn't know what he's talkin about.

Edit: ditch ---- i would be really interested too . I wish I had posted this thread!

[This message has been edited by JamesCurtis (edited 04-24-2005).]

I never said that it was the first car that you have owned and I don't care about the performance of your other/previous cars. All I was trying to say was to acknowledge the people that are trying to help. The fact that the intake manifolds are a limitation on the 2.8 is a well known fact and has been adressed many times and posted to your thread in response to your question, but if you want to go out and do that vacuum test, go for it. There are restrictions in the exhaust manifolds that can be ground out as well.

Have fun with your Fiero. Just don't expect a 28% gain in horsepower without a lot of internal work on the 2.8 and still expect it to pass CARB() inspections.

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quote JamesCurtis said: Can anyone tell me exactly how they got into the plenum ot polish the innards?

Extrude Hone can do it.

I'm still going to say you can't get 180HP from bolt-ons... unless you bolt on a nitrous system or something.

Opening up the intake and exhaust will help. But you'll need to port the heads and install a more aggressive cam to round it out. A stock cam with 1.6:1 rockers isn't going to suffice. To squeeze more power out of each CFM of intake charge, you'll need to either increase the compression ratio (at least 9:1) or bore/stroke it to 3.2 liters (8.9:1 not counting head shaving). Then you should be around 180HP at the flywheel.

Good luck, and have fun!

---- false info, whoops

[This message has been edited by JamesCurtis (edited 04-24-2005).]

You guys should look into the extrude honing....maybe search on here. I know there is a company that does it. I also remember reading feedback from a PFF member who had it done. They were not impressed one bit. Wish I could remember what thread that was. If anyone finds any threads on it post a link here. There is some good info in this thread.

Who knows, maybe extrude honing is worth it. For the price though, you would be better off with a FrancisT intake. As said above, if inspection is a problem, swap it out with stock intake before inspection and then put it back on afterwards....shouldn't take too long.

Dave

Oops, I should've paid more attention. I don't think the Extrude Hone process polishes the interior. But it does yield the equivalent of a fine-sanded surface.

I would have to agree with ditch, for how much it costs to have an intake extrude honed, the money could definitely go into a new trueleo intake and lower intake that flow ALOT better than the stock intake

when i first got my car i did a complete tuneup, and later on (a few weeks) i upgraded to all accel and msd, yes i noticed a hell of a difference over the previous tunup and, over gapping the spark plugs was a good help, ohhh dont listen to me im a dumbass, these folks around here just disagree with ANYTHING that they themselves dont have any experience with...

il get the time slips, give me 2 weeks, have to wait for my fiencee to come back from KY, she doesnt want me to go without her, and if i let her go..il have a video, she has a digy cam corder.

ps: i have learned that keeping the stock ignition modual is the best way to go, dont upgrade that beyond stock, huge pita and a waste of money., ive gone through an msd modual AND a jegs modual withen 2 weeks, junk! and they didnt seem to help out hp or mpg

btw: id love to get a 15.8, but il settle with a 16.3...weeel see...make your estimates!

quote Originally posted by 88 forumla: these folks around here just disagree with ANYTHING that they themselves dont have any experience with...

See this is exactly your problem WE HAVE EXPERIENCE with these EXACT engines. Your problem is some things worked on a mini-van with an over-head cammed 3.0L and for some strange reason you think it will work on the Fiero 2.8L. In the other thread numerous people told you your horsepower estimates were way off. Now you come in this thread still spouting your wild-eyed fantasies of gaining 18-25hp with only 1.6 rockers and an upgraded ignition. Then you state: "i know for a damn fact that i gained 18 to 25 out of that!" Well what "fact" do you base it on?? Did you dyno the car? did you run it down the 1/4 mile? The last thread you lost your temper when numerous people tried to help you.
Don't go away mad, Just go away.

Doug85GT,
I apologize for the above to the "88 forumla" guy but he has no experience with 2.8L engines and thinks what works on one engine works on all.
As for your engine, Opening up the flow is the way to go. Sounds like your on the right track with the port/polish of the intake, power pulley and the WCF exhaust. If you ever decide to go with internal mods to the engine, You could also look into swapping in a 3.1L crank/pistons. The added cubic inches will allow more gains.

quote Originally posted by 88 forumla: ohhh dont listen to me im a dumbass

ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY, 100% CORRECT

see, we do agree

quote Originally posted by 88 forumla: ive gone through an msd modual AND a jegs modual withen 2 weeks

does msd make an ignition module for the 2.8? Or are you talking about ignition coil?

quote Originally posted by 88 forumla: when i first got my car i did a complete tuneup, and later on (a few weeks) i upgraded to all accel and msd, yes i noticed a hell of a difference over the previous tunup and, over gapping the spark plugs was a good help, ohhh dont listen to me im a dumbass, these folks around here just disagree with ANYTHING that they themselves dont have any experience with... il get the time slips, give me 2 weeks, have to wait for my fiencee to come back from KY, she doesnt want me to go without her, and if i let her go..il have a video, she has a digy cam corder. ps: i have learned that keeping the stock ignition modual is the best way to go, dont upgrade that beyond stock, huge pita and a waste of money., ive gone through an msd modual AND a jegs modual withen 2 weeks, junk! and they didnt seem to help out hp or mpg btw: id love to get a 15.8, but il settle with a 16.3...weeel see...make your estimates!

i got a 16.0 with my near stock 2.8..... wasnt your other claim for 15 or 14?

I believe that a 50 HP shot of Nitrous will get you into the 14's. IMO. going higher than that will be detrimental to engine life. It's inexpensive and simple HP but N2O can be tricky to run.

quote Originally posted by JamesCurtis: does msd make an ignition module for the 2.8? Or are you talking about ignition coil?

He typically doesn't know what he's talking about. It's likely the coil since in an old thread he talked about the 40,000+ volts the module puts out, but your guess is as good as mine.

Anyway, I looked into it about 2 years ago and MSD did not make an ignition control module for us. I doubt there is one available now. Knowing what I know now about the modules I wouldn't buy an aftermarket one. I do have an MSD ignition coil though and haven't had a problem with it in over 1 year. I also noticed absolutely no difference between the MSD coil and the old stock coil I replaced. This was all after a full ignition system upgrade. Gas mileage did go up about 2mpg which is no surprise with a new ig system.

Dave

I e-mailed Travis "1FST2M6" about some exhaust questions and how he got his fiero into the 14's and this was his reply:

the muffler is a bit
longer than a flowmaster but fits just fine in the factory location. the
x-flows and dual/dual, single dual all had too much weight or too much back
pressure. uum brullenexhaust.com to pick up one.. it was about $140. you'll
need to replace the pipe from the y-pipe to the cat as well. basic mods..

decent rear tires at 15-18psi 4000rpm clutch dump, koni or Bilstein
shocks(i'm sure KYB would be fine), Eibach springs, remove front anti sway
bar move it to the back with 94 honda accord end links. MSD 6A, NGK plugs,
Napa Beldan wires nothing special, Crane PS91 coil, K&N Cone filter, CLEAN
INJECTORS! advance timing 4*, under drive pulley, 160' thermostat or just
drill a 5/32" hole in exsisting unit, do you have a short shifter? Wrap stock ported
manifolds with ceramic header tape (dramaticly reduces engine bay temps),
move the battery to the front (not a must but helps) remove screens from
under the rear air cleaner and battery cover to aid in heat evacuation of
the engine bay. JUST THESE SIMPLE CHANGES GET YOU HIGH 14'S.. if you are a
nitrous fiend like i was for a while.. dont' mess with the timing, .052N20,
.036 fuel, nitrous express wet system or NOS.. NOT ZEX or any dry system!
i've got another entire mod list for hella-hardcore racing the stock blocked
Fiero... if available a 4.10 muncie tranny is AWSOME... a bag of quick crete
in the trunk, a full bottle and a little weight removal she would lift the
front tires of my 86 SE over a coke can @ 30' mark... =) but the 4.10 was
HORRIBLE on my trip from atlanta to sioux falls, SD. heh.

Regards,
Travis
98 Camaro SS 409rwhp daily driver

People seem to believe what he says, he actually ran his car on the track and got time slips and dynoed everything he did, so its not just a bunch of wishful thinking...

[This message has been edited by will_p (edited 04-25-2005).]

no MSD makes moduals for chevy V8's but not the 2.8, but there exactly the same part so the MSD ignition modual for a 350 chevy will work fine on a 2.8.

id have to be a moron to expect a 14.0 in a 1/4 mile! thats way rediculous, i was just saying thatit would be cool, it was a pipe dream, but running a 15' something may not be a pipe dream with just bolt ons., well see, im hella curious myself., i got that damn auto crap trans slowing me down, i wana 5spd but no time/money/resorces/2nd dary vehicle)

how did you get the 16.0 out of your stock 2.8? im asuming it was a stick and you took out all the spare tire stuff right?

You can do a full MSD setup for your 2.8. I have the 6200 box and an MSD coil and it works great, just don't ever try to move the distributor with the engine running to set timing without real good insulation between your hand an it or you'll find out just how much hotter the spark is than stock. Been there, done that........