I need to redo the seal on the water pump on my duke since it's leaking a little. Any tips from experiences on how to make it a smooth operation? The lower bolts look annoying....should I remove the rear passenger wheel and splash guards? Will it give me a better look or will it just be more of a pain in the arse?

Here is a link or two: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20050119-2-056502.html
and https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20040223-2-039015.html

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 04-13-2005).]

My 84Se developed a leak near the WP.

Turned out it was the seal at the block.

I was able to get at it fairly easy from underneath and above.

The above should be the same as yours, my below was easy as the cat had been replaced with a straight piece of, "test pipe", which really makes alot of room to get at the front of the engine from underneath.

Here are a couple pics that I hope will help.

I have AC so the compressor had to be removed, go easy at the bolts, I didn't break any but if I had gone heavy handed I would have.

Some I had to get to move a little and just keep going back and forth while keeping the bolt sprayed with liquid wrench.

Now the pics.

This is the back of the pump which attaches to the block with four bolts.

This is the pump as viewed from the drivers side looking toward the passenger side.

This is a pic of the block where the pump attaches, only two of the bolt holes are used at the lower attachment point. I would put a little silicon on the bolt threads here as at least one passes through into the water jacket and isn't a blind hole.

This pic is the pump as you look straight back at it from the front of the engine.

The actual pump bolts to a sort of elbow that then bolts to the block.

If the leak is at the point where the pump attaches to the elbow there are I believe seven (7) bolts that hold it to the elbow.

I'll post some pics of those bolts next.

[This message has been edited by fierohoho (edited 04-13-2005).]

Thank for the pics! So you would suggest taking the whole pump off and not just trying to do the top part while its in the car? Are there any water pump gaskets or is it RTV all the way?

Nope, not suggesting you take the whole pump off unless it's leaking at the block like mine.

I did the block gaskets and never touched the pump as the pump wasn't leaking.

If your leak was where the pump seals to the elbow with the seven bolts and it's not from the pump weep hole I guess I'd try to just do the pump gasket.

I would think a new pump would come with a gasket, not sure on the availablity of just the pump gasket or if you could just use silcone.

I probably should have replaced the pump when I did mine but I don't have the tools for swaping out the pulley yet and didn't want to pay to have it done.

I'm cheap and dumb as the pump is the original pump, but it wasn't broke so I didn't fix it.

I replaced the water pump on my '87 Duke a few years ago (just the pump, not the elbow). I didn't need to remove the wheel or splash guard. But removing the battery made things alot easier. If I remember correctly, the pump came with a gasket.

I've located some gaskets. Should I use RTV plus the gasket or just use one or the other?

The new pump should come with a gasket. If it doesn't, take it back to where you bought it and complain.

These guys nailed it down with removing such items as the splash guard and bettery box. It will make it MUCH easier to remove. The water pump pulley is pressed on. I hope you have access to some kind of press or maybe a propane torch to help things a little. I ended up buying my core because the old pully was soooo nasty, the old water pump was lots of little pieces in the box when the destruction was all over.

Take your time and only use small amounts of RTV to help the gasket stay in place. Good luck.

88Ironduke

------------------
Pilots with out maintainers are just pedestrians with a cool jacket and sunglasses.
I.Y.A.M.Y.A.S.

I'm new to the Fiero but not when it comes to "hard to reach places" on engines at all...

If there is anything for a tool that you could BUY that you dont have its a set of those metric "ratchet wrenches" from Stanley (seen below), The first time you tighten an alternator belt or replace a water pump they pay for themselves..

Thinner than a socket and very little movement to get them to click back for the next swing.., Great tools..

Good reason I bought both sets.. Metric and Standard..

Only thing I couldnt stand about the set is they like to "skip" a few sizes.. Probably to make you pay more for the missing individual ones I bet..

Regards
Rob

Great info guys. Is the RTV needed at all with the gasket. I can use some high tack or copper spray to get the gasket to stick, but it seems a little thin so I'm wondering if I should use it at all. What did you guys use on the pump seal and the block seal?

Nice pics! Sure explains everything. I replaced my pump about 4-5 months ago and I remember it being a pain in the butt! In my opinion you don't have to remove the wheel or wheelwell cover, there's nothing you can get at from there. The battery removed does make it easier to get to. It's a tight area to work in, I wish I had those wrenches (BTW, where did you get those?). The pully did have to be removed from the old pump and used on the new one, the guys at AutoZoned let me use their puller/press tool (cool). I have an extra new pump if anyone needs one , I'll let it go for $5 plus shipping. It's for an '88 4cyl. not sure if they are all the same for different years.This one has a new pully but not sure if it's the same used on Fiero's, at least not the '88's. It's for V-belts not the serpentine belt used on the '88.