Got my 86 GT 2.8L to start for the first time in 6 years today, but it stalls after 4 seconds. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge yet, but I have replaced the dead pump in my tank. I hear the new pump come on and I have fuel at the shradder valve. After trying to get it to idle a number of times and even trying a force flood, I smelled fuel and have a puddle of fuel under the car. The lines coming from the tank all look dry. It seems to be running down the driver side of the engine / trans from somewhere. Can this be the IAC I've read about or possibly clogged injectors backing up fuel and leaking where they enter the manifold? visual inspection reveals moisture all under the upper intake manifold.

The most common place to get a fuel leak in that area is from the fitting for the cold start injector pipe. There is a small O-ring that seals the pipe to the fuel rail. This o-ring gets hard and cracks over time. If you replace this, be sure to use an o-ring that is gas resistant.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 02-05-2005).]

Also check the fuel pressure regulator. Since it sat for a while, This to can leak if it was left dry for a period of time like the cold start injector tube jelly mentioned.

At any rate you have a major leak somewhere you need to fix and I mean now. DO NOT keep trying to start the car until the leak is found and fixed. If you don't fix it ASAP you will very likely be having carbq in the extremely near future. All it takes is one spark to light the mess off.

The one thing that this can't be is the IAC... that controls idle air flow on the throttle body. You have a major leak on the fuel rail or in a fuel line. It should not be hard to find but could be a real pain to fix.

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The only thing George Orwell got wrong was the year...

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

I agree to check the Cold Start injector.

Thanks for the safety concern, I agree. I have a fire blanket and two fire extinquishers on hand and have been watching it closely. It's been on fire before, I'm most concerned about the garage it's sitting in. When this project is done, I have to get flames painted on it. Ok, I'll read up on the cold start valve now. Jelly, Will I have to remove the upper manifold to replace the o-ring that seals this pipe to the fuel rail? Also where / how do I check the fuel pressure regulator? My haynes manual kinda points to the whole fuel rail assembly when it identifies the fuel pressure regulator. For a newbie, who has managed to replace all 6 spark plugs, fuel pump and fix some wiring issues, how hard is it likely going to be to pull this upper manifold and get to the fuel rail? One hint - I've never even seen bolts like these star head things. I take Ogre's point seriously, but how does one know when the leak is fixed? I was checking the shradder valve earlier to get any air out of the line and it made a pretty good mess itself, does anyone have any tips on drying this fuel up?

The leak was coming from the shradder valve. When I got the car it did not have a cap on the valve and I didn't know it apparently needs it. I did receive a spare fuel rail / injectors with the car and took the cap from there. So with the leak identified and hopefully properly corrected, I am back to the 3 second run time mystery.

[This message has been edited by ApexNC (edited 02-09-2005).]

quote Originally posted by ApexNC: The leak was coming from the shradder valve. When I got the car it did not have a cap on the valve and I didn't know it apparently needs it. I did receive a spare fuel rail / injectors with the car and took the cap from there. So with the leak identified and hopefully properly corrected, I am back to the 3 second run time mystery.

The shraedder (spelling?) valve needs to be replaced, I would not depend on the cap to seal the system. I'd also get ahold of a pressure guage, that may still be an issue. Check timing and a slew of other possibilities. Any codes stored?